P32 IGNITION SWITCH

[TandW]

Well folks, we got about 30,000 miles on the first replacement switch. This one went at 43,000 miles in Saluda, SC. This time it allowed the engine to crank with no ignition. Replaced it with our spare and off we went. When back home in Lebanon, PA we picked up another new spare at our trusty NAPA dealer for 13 dollars and change. Just to let you know it is not so bad having this chassis once you know where all the gremlins are lurking. Hecks, years ago I used to replace rear wheel bearings with relative frequency on my '71, '76, and '79 Ford pickups. Gave Jeep and Dodge a couple tries. Went GM in '88, '95, '99, twice in '01 and still have them all. Good luck to all!

[TandW]

Well folks, we got about 30,000 miles on the first replacement switch. This one went at 43,000 miles in Saluda, SC. This time it allowed the engine to crank with no ignition. Replaced it with our spare and off we went. When back home in Lebanon, PA we picked up another new spare at our trusty NAPA dealer for 13 dollars and change. Just to let you know it is not so bad having this chassis once you know where all the gremlins are lurking. Hecks, years ago I used to replace rear wheel bearings with relative frequency on my '71, '76, and '79 Ford pickups. Gave Jeep and Dodge a couple tries. Went GM in '88, '95, '99, twice in '01 and still have them all. Good luck to all!

[MikeT]

Why not check the other thread on this subject, install a relay as suggested and unload the excess drain on the ignition circuit and be done with the switch issue?

ign. problems

2002 18,000# chassis electrical problem

[jhawthorne]

T&W, Would you mind sharing the NAPA P/N for the P32 ignition switch? Mine failed last year in Lancaster, CA and I purchased one at the Mojave Workhorse Service Center for more than twice as much as you spent for yours at NAPA. I guess I should also carry a spare along with solonoids and switches for the infamous Auto Park system. BTW, I thought Saluda was just across the border in N. Carolina, just south of Flat Rock.

Jack Hawthorne
2001 Airstream Land Yacht (It's For Sale)
8.1L Vortec V8
1999 Saturn toad
Blue Ox Adventa towbar
Blue Ox Apollo SBS

[max49]

T&W, I would also like to have that Napa Part# for the switch. Also if you don't mind, could you give me some tips on how to get the ignition switch out? Is it the whole thing with new keys and all?
Thanks
I've got a small collection of spare parts now and a spare ignition switch sounds like something I should have espescially since it is readily available at Napa for only $13.
Too bad a "spare parts option" was'nt offered when we buy these things new. O yea, they'd put a 1000% markup on it.

[TandW]

OK. NAPA part# for late 90's GM ignition switch known to fit 2001 Workhorse P32 gas chassis is as follows; KS6622 ECHLIN Price 26.92 Net price to me as a loyal NAPA buyer = 13.16 . To change out switch; locate and remove steering column support yoke (8 bolts). Lift wires from Dimmer switch and Shifter lockout switch solenoid. Remove Ground wire from Shifter lockout switch body. Remove the rest of the mounting screws from this assembly and zip-tie it up out of the way. At this point remove Ignition switch mounting screws.Carefully remove it from the relay rod that drops from the ignition switch cylinder lock. Now lift 2 harnesses from old switch and place them onto new switch. Operate the slide in the switch with a dull pointed tool. Check that you have cranking, with ignition, on function, and accessory position function. Reassemble all the hardware and electrical connections. Make sure you have re-inserted the Ignition switch relay rod and the Dimmer switch relay rods. Adjust the Dimmer switch for proper operation, at the mounting screws. Before replacing the steering column support yoke retest all Ignition switch functions, Dimmer switch up and down, and Shifter lockout. Shifter should not move from park position until ignition is on and foot-brake pedal is depressed. If not working as described then recheck the 2 wire harness on the Shifter lockout switch solenoid. To the best of my limited memory, this is how I did it. Good luck to all. By the way, Saluda is in Saluda County South Carolina. It is the real one.

[max49]

Thanks T&W,
I saved those instructions to my Workhorse Folder.

[jhawthorne]

T&W,
Thanks for the P/N and the instructions. I will keep them in the MH. Also, thanks for the heads-up on Saluda. I guess there are two of them in the Carolinas. BTW, the town of North is in S.Carolina.

Jack Hawthorne
2001 Airstream Land Yacht
1999 Saturn toad
Blue Ox Aventa II towbar
Blue Ox Apollo SBS

[BB501]

I'm going to NAPA for a spare today. By the way, I discovered if you say "Workhorse", you may not get your part unless you have a part number off tthe switch. Is that how you were able to buy yours at NAPA?How hard is it to change? Is it simple enough to do while on a road trip if the need should arise? Thank you for this information.
Steve

[BB501]

This for T&W:
Please disregard my last. I failed to read on. Sorry.
Steve

[parts_expert]

you can get a kit from Workhorse that most likely will eliminate all your ignition switch issues.

# W8002085

[TandW]

Parts_Expert. I fail to understand why WCC offers a very much overpriced "protection kit" for a problem of their own creation. This kit can only serve to move the problem elsewhere. There is too much current flowing through an electrical chokepoint. Before anyone purchases this kit they need to consider what the total potential current flow is and whether the relay offered can handle it. Do you know the contact rating?