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Old 07-27-2008, 12:46 PM   #1
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I'm new to the Motorhome (MH) life style and to this forum. Some great info on this forum by the way and I love my new MH.

Any way, I was on a family trip and the parking light on the dash came on, I pulled over and couldn't find an issue so we continued for another 150 miles or so, after stopping for fuel the parking brake would not release, I was stuck at the gas station blocking 2 pumps and I could move at all. After multiple phone calls with no luck and AAA being useless, I found in the manual how to disconnect the parking brake under the MH. So I did that and spend the remainder of our trip with no parking break. good thing I had some wood for under the wheels.

Well now that the MH has been in the shop or 1 month, I'm getting mad. The shop is telling me that the light now blinks and there is a relay that clicks the same time the light blinks. The shop has called Workhorse and Winnebago to get answers on how to fix the issue and both of them are pointing fingers at the other. so the shop can't figure out how to fix. They have put a brand new relay in and that didn't fix the problem.

has any one else had this issue? Any suggestions on how to get it fixed. I missed a trip to the Brickyard 400 because its not fixed. I want my MH back, so please help if you can.

Thanks,

NK
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Old 07-27-2008, 12:46 PM   #2
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I'm new to the Motorhome (MH) life style and to this forum. Some great info on this forum by the way and I love my new MH.

Any way, I was on a family trip and the parking light on the dash came on, I pulled over and couldn't find an issue so we continued for another 150 miles or so, after stopping for fuel the parking brake would not release, I was stuck at the gas station blocking 2 pumps and I could move at all. After multiple phone calls with no luck and AAA being useless, I found in the manual how to disconnect the parking brake under the MH. So I did that and spend the remainder of our trip with no parking break. good thing I had some wood for under the wheels.

Well now that the MH has been in the shop or 1 month, I'm getting mad. The shop is telling me that the light now blinks and there is a relay that clicks the same time the light blinks. The shop has called Workhorse and Winnebago to get answers on how to fix the issue and both of them are pointing fingers at the other. so the shop can't figure out how to fix. They have put a brand new relay in and that didn't fix the problem.

has any one else had this issue? Any suggestions on how to get it fixed. I missed a trip to the Brickyard 400 because its not fixed. I want my MH back, so please help if you can.

Thanks,

NK
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Old 07-27-2008, 12:53 PM   #3
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First let welcome you to IRV2. Next, update your signature with some rig info.... Year, Make, Model etc so we can better asnwer your questions.

Now as for your parking brake issue. If it is the older J71 style then a fellow called Oldusedbear probably has the answer. But, even if it is the newer J72 oldusedbear might know more than Workhorse and/or the dealer.
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Old 07-27-2008, 01:06 PM   #4
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Oemtech,

thanks for the heads up. I'm not sure if I have the J71 or J72, of course all my paperwork is in the MH at the shop.

I hope someone can help fix this.

NK
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Old 07-27-2008, 02:30 PM   #5
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Noel, here is a part of the explanation of how the auto park works that I got from "oldusedbear". It pretty well explains why your light blinks on and off.

ROTTEN GREEN SWITCH INSTALLATION WARNING - - READ
CAREFULLY
This is the second generation of this particular memo. We have
had only a few cases involving this issue but believe our analysis
to be sound, and important enough that anyone installing a new
Rotten Green Switch (pressure maintenance switch) should be
advised of a potential problem.
The RGS threads into a piece that looks somewhat like a pipe
reducer. We call it a "poppet valve hex reducer." For short, the
PVHR. One end of the PVHR has a 3/8 24 female thread the RGS
screws into. The other (male) end screws into the pump body
itself - - not a pipe thread I'm told. Several people have said that
they buggered the female thread in the PVHR (which accepts the
RGS) in the process of installing the new RGS - - and have
thus found it necessary to drill out the old threads, and re-tap the
hole to something larger. Then, they made a newly threaded
bushing to fit the RGS on one end, , and to fit the PVHR on the
other. Sort of sounds like a Helicoil repair for those who are
familiar with that process. At this point, we don't as yet know
diameters or thread pitches - - just the basics of the repair.
The other potential problem in installation is as follows:
This PVHR , described above as looking somewhat like a pipe
reducer, retains a spring and poppet valve. Some of our forum
members have reported that they were not aware of the presence
of this small spring with a "button-like object" at the end of the
spring inside this fitting - - In both cases, when they removed the
12
fitting to repair the threads, the spring fell (luckily) into their oil
drip/catch pan, but they didn't know it at the time.
After installing the new RGS, and checking AutoPark function on
both of these motorhomes, it was found that the AutoPark
dashboard lite blinked on and off quite rapidly, and a click could
be heard each time the light blinked. In both cases, this was
cured when the spring/button was found in the drip pan, and
properly re-installed. For those interested, the function of the
poppet valve is to keep the system pressure from flowing
backwards through the pump, after the pump stops running. Loss
of the poppet or spring allows the pressure to rapidly escape
back through the pump and results in the oscillation effect.
Consequently, anyone replacing an RGS should be aware of the
potential problem. For whatever reason this hex valve fitting may
be removed, the mechanic must be careful not to lose any of the
parts of the poppet assembly. We do have an annotated picture
of the system that shows and labels the RGS and the hex reducer.
We also have (courtesy of the pump manufacturer), exploded
views of the poppet assembly and corresponding part numbers,
in the event someone should lose any of these pieces. The
obvious way to avoid these miseries is to remove ONLY the RGS
and NOT the hex reducer which retains the poppet assembly.
Anyone who encounters the rapid on/off cycling of the pump
should suspect loss or malfunction of this poppet assembly. Let
us know if you need further information on this subject.
We have attached a pair of pictures on the following page that help to explain the
above problem. In the picture below, it is important to note that the shiny hex
adapter is made of very soft material, and it is pretty easy to strip the threads by
overtightening the RGS when threading it into the adapter.
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Old 07-27-2008, 03:15 PM   #6
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Thanks so much. I will forward this to my shop (I should get a discount for suppling them with the solution).

Hope this works, it sure sounds like it will work.

Thanks again,

NK
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Old 07-27-2008, 03:46 PM   #7
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<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by Noel Korowin:
I'm not sure if I have the J71 or J72, of course all my paperwork is in the MH at the shop. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>Noel, I am pretty sure that you have a J71 system.
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Old 07-27-2008, 05:53 PM   #8
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Noel, if you want all the info on the auto park system send an email to "oldusedbear" and give him the info on your MH (year, make & model). His email address is: rhaag@nwtec.com

His info has pictures and diagrams of the different versions of the system.

How many miles do you have on your MH? I have over 72,000 on mine with no problems so far. I think I will get a pump motor switch to carry with me just in case it goes out.

If you would, please let us know what the final solution was.

Tom
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Old 07-29-2008, 05:28 PM   #9
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Noel has made email contact with us and we're starting to work the problem.

My hipshot guess based on what little we know about it so far, is that they lost the little bitty spring behind the poppet valve, in the process of changing the RGS (probably an RBS as his newer rig may have a brown pressure maintenance switch instead of a green one).

Hopefully he can get his rig back from the shop without paying an unreasonable ransom.

oldusedbear - - at the AutoPark Library
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Old 07-29-2008, 06:39 PM   #10
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I just changed my RGS in a campground the other day after conversing with oldusedbear. My light came on as yours did and I did drive it a ways, but not enough to create a rupture and lose the fluid as you obviously did....just lucky I guess. Bear says that some have gone as much as 4000 miles which is highly unlikely in most cases so never ignore the warning light. I was warned long ago and knew about the potential poppet valve problem and was careful not to let it come out with the pressure switch itself.
Anyway, I'm curious as to what the manual told you to do about disabling the brake, which I imagine was to remove the clevis pin????....not an easy task without a foot brake to take off the pressure. Also I'm wondering how many miles you have on your coach as I would imagine, it's never failed before this.
Again, anyone with this system needs to carry a spare switch on board and have some knowledge about it's workings.
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Old 08-09-2008, 03:49 PM   #11
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Just to give everyone an update, "oldusedbear" saved me like so many others.

The Service center couldn't fix the issue so I had the coach towed to my house and fixed it myself. Thanks "oldusedbear" I can't believe how easy it was after all the instructions oldusedbear gave me.

Thanks again.
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Old 08-09-2008, 04:54 PM   #12
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Thanks for the kind words, Noel.

Most AutoPark issues are ones that can be conquered by anyone with some reasonable wrenching abilities, AND the willingness to tackle the job. The most distressing thing is to get "worked over" by a service outlet that isn't really capable or willing to troubleshoot to the component level. It's the old thing about "throwing parts" at the problem instead of figuring out what has gone wrong.

Congratulations on a good job Noel.

o.u.b.
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Old 08-09-2008, 07:05 PM   #13
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<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by oldusedbear:
Thanks for the kind words, Noel. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>O.U.B., I would also like to extend my thanks for your assistance with Noel's AAPB issue.

We appreciate the time that you give our members.
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Old 08-30-2008, 12:34 PM   #14
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To ktmnoel, the OP...
I think we have done everything we could have, to answer your questions as they were being asked, so would you be kind enough to answer mine, now that you're in the clear and OK.

So, again....
I'm curious as to what the manual told you to do about disabling the brake, which I imagine was to remove the clevis pin????....not an easy task without a foot brake (do you have one?) to take off the pressure. Also I'm wondering how many miles you have on your coach...and as I would imagine, it's never failed before this....or has it?
Where did you finally locate the little bitty spring to go behind the poppet valve for the final repairs?
Does anyone else know the answers here, just in case the OP is missing this?
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