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Old 04-12-2008, 06:41 AM   #1
Nicholas Tinling is offline
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The following is a post that I placed on RV.Net where it was suggested I post at this site.
"Last week I had to have my 2007 Pace Arrow 36 D, on a W24 chassis, towed 1.2 miles from where it broke down to the service yard. The breakdown was caused by loose spark plug wires, an easy fix after it was taken to the shop. The tow truck driver lifted the front end, said I could sit in the driver seat, put it in neutral, turned on the key and released the auto parking brake. When he started towing that was a loud hammering noise and it was hard towing. He stopped, came back to me, looked to make sure it was in neutral, key was on, and parking brake off. He then continued, and so did the noise. The noise then stopped and it seemed to be towing smoothly. We came to a signal and he had to stop. When he started up again the noise returned but then subsided. When he got to the shop, the ABS warning light had come on. After the coach was fixed I drove it 35 miles to my RV park. The next morning I determined that the parking brake no longer was working. I drove it back to the same shop. They investigated and determined that it was completely destroyed and had to be replaced at the price of $1200. The roadside assistance company is refusing to pay claiming that nothing wrong was done during towing that would have caused the brake failure. This is sure contrary to the noise I heard and the feeling I got when it was being towed. Does anybody know anything about the proper procedures for towing? "
Note: the drive line was not dropped, the engine was not running.

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Old 04-12-2008, 06:41 AM   #2
Nicholas Tinling is offline
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The following is a post that I placed on RV.Net where it was suggested I post at this site.
"Last week I had to have my 2007 Pace Arrow 36 D, on a W24 chassis, towed 1.2 miles from where it broke down to the service yard. The breakdown was caused by loose spark plug wires, an easy fix after it was taken to the shop. The tow truck driver lifted the front end, said I could sit in the driver seat, put it in neutral, turned on the key and released the auto parking brake. When he started towing that was a loud hammering noise and it was hard towing. He stopped, came back to me, looked to make sure it was in neutral, key was on, and parking brake off. He then continued, and so did the noise. The noise then stopped and it seemed to be towing smoothly. We came to a signal and he had to stop. When he started up again the noise returned but then subsided. When he got to the shop, the ABS warning light had come on. After the coach was fixed I drove it 35 miles to my RV park. The next morning I determined that the parking brake no longer was working. I drove it back to the same shop. They investigated and determined that it was completely destroyed and had to be replaced at the price of $1200. The roadside assistance company is refusing to pay claiming that nothing wrong was done during towing that would have caused the brake failure. This is sure contrary to the noise I heard and the feeling I got when it was being towed. Does anybody know anything about the proper procedures for towing? "
Note: the drive line was not dropped, the engine was not running.

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Old 04-12-2008, 08:14 AM   #3
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AuOh, it seems like 1 or 2 miles would'nt hurt any thing but it sounds like it did.
Did you leave the key on so 12 volts would keep the auto brake from applying? If I turn my key off, my brake auto applies.
You're really suppose to disconnect the drive shaft when towing but the problem is, the brake was obviously on. Warranty? No?
It mighht come down to who was responsible to make sure brake was'nt on.
If it was making all that noise, you should have know something was wrong and stopped the tow driver, especially since he stopped and asked you if the brake was off.
Good Luck and Let us know how this goes
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Old 04-12-2008, 10:06 AM   #4
Steve&Dora is offline
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I believe the engine has to be running for the parking brake to release, so even key on it was probably still engage. Also at least when I have been towed, was under the impression it is illegal to be riding in the towed rig.
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Old 04-12-2008, 10:09 AM   #5
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If you were in neutral and the parking brake knob was off, your parking brake would be disengaged, unless you had some sort of malfunction.

I would want my drive shaft disconnected before being towed. Even if only a mile or two. Once the drive shaft is disconnected no harm can be done to the parking brake, Allison or engine.

-Tom
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Old 04-12-2008, 10:12 AM   #6
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<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by Nicholas Tinling:
The following is a post that I placed on RV.Net where it was suggested I post at this site.
</div></BLOCKQUOTE>

That would be me.

I'm sure other W-24 owners can give you the correct information.

For the W-24 owners: Does the emergency brake lock the driveshaft or the brakes?
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Old 04-12-2008, 10:13 AM   #7
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<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by Nicholas Tinling:
Note: the drive line was not dropped, the engine was not running. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>Call Workhorse Technical Support and ask them. I believe if you tow the motorhome one would have to drop the driveshaft.

I am almost positive that the tow truck driver did not follow proper procedures.
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Old 04-12-2008, 11:46 AM   #8
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<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by Tom N:
If you were in neutral and the parking brake knob was off, your parking brake would be disengaged, unless you had some sort of malfunction.


Not true with my autopark. If the key is not on, the yellow button and the Park position on the gearshift is not needed because it needs the 12 volts from the ignition switch to release the brake.
If the W-24 autopark is like mine, he could have to it in neutral, pushed the button to release the brake and he still did'nt do anything, the brake was still on.
Since he said it was making a bad noise , and was pulling hard, and the tow truck driver stopped and went back and asked him if the brake was released.
Uh, well, he ignored alot of red flags.
I don't know why he would ride in the MH but it might be hard for him to put all the responsibility on the tow driver, but you're not suppose to tow an automatic very far WO disconecting a drive shaft.
Sounds like they did'nt understand how the autopark works.



-Tom </div></BLOCKQUOTE>
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Old 04-12-2008, 12:16 PM   #9
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I don't think I can pull the gear shift lever out of park and into neutral without the key being on.

I'll check when I get out in the coach tomorrow.

-Tom
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Old 04-12-2008, 05:23 PM   #10
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On mine, the key has to be on or in the accessory to pull it out of P and into neutral, but once I have it in neutral, I can turn the key off, at least to the accessory position, at which point the ignition is off and no voltage goes to the autopark.

It's a dangerous design IMO and one thing that I do not like about my MH. Another thing going thru my ignition switch.
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Old 04-14-2008, 06:20 AM   #11
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NIck,

The driveshaft should have been removed & I dont think it legal for you to be in the vehicle while it's being towed.You may want to call the police department and ask,if that is the case then they are at fault automatically.

I think the main issue is a LAZY tow truck operator!!!! The driveshaft should have been pulled.

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