Question on 8.1 upgrading & air intake

[kstrails]

I am new to this site however, have been reading alot of information on here about upgrades . We just picked up our new rig a 2005 on the W- 22 .Have only driven it 1200 miles so far.
Think we would like to upgrade to the UP, AND air intake to start with. (The dealer just replaced plugs and wires...so they said)
Is the Ultra CAI from Brazel's any better than Banks Ram Air? The CAI appears to be a little more expensive. Also do they both increase the noise level when climbing hills?
I wanted to do the upgrades myself if possible, live no where close to any type of service dealer. Anyone with first hand experience?

[DriVer]

Quote:

Originally Posted by kstrails I wanted to do the upgrades myself if possible, live no where close to any type of service dealer. Anyone with first hand experience?

The Ultrapower CAI is a little throaty however that can be attenuated by the use of sound insulation. Of course I went with the throaty and have not chosen to insulate the enclosure.

Cruising straight and level, (80% of the time I recon), the CAI doesn't make appreciably any more sound that a stock filter system. You will notice a change in pitch and power when you hammer down!

I have been using my CAI for 3+ years now.

[oemtech]

I made a proto type mod for the Brazel's CAI to allow you to redirect the air intake. I did this mod to my DIY CAI and it reduced the noise about 75% or more.

Air box before


Air box mods


Air box after

[DriVer]

Quote:

Originally Posted by oemtech I made a proto type mod for the Brazel's CAI to allow you to redirect the air intake. I did this mod to my DIY CAI and it reduced the noise about 75% or more.

Dale, That looks interesting. Did you run the numbers before and after? Just wondering if the volume is as much as it was ...

In moving air a big hole is always better than a small one however the dryer vent used in your exhibit has less sq inches of cross section it would appear from the photo. Not that's a bad thing. Would you not agree that attenuating noise might reduce the volumetric efficiency of the device.

I believe for the same reasons that why hi-flow exhaust systems are more efficient but noisy!

I'm also wondering if there is any math involved in regard to the distance between the MAF and the intake manifold in regard to back pressure or whatever other physics exist in the intake?

I'm not liking so much the sharp bend in the stock intake plus all the pleats in the intake tubing but those are there I expect to compensate for vibration, stretch and quite possibly fatigue. All of those features would appear not to be doing very much for efficient air flow!

[oemtech]

My DIY Ram Air mod works great... no problem with the amount of air come through air intake (90 degree floor register). A side note I have not had any water problems and I have been through some pretty heavy rain.

Smooth counts.

[kstrails]

OEMTEC, In your intallation,does the battery box you used have a cover or lid ? Also would you still have the part #s used for pipe and rubber fittings?

[Davel]

I built the battery box DIY cold air intake several years ago. I used 4" vacuum hose from a dust collector system from the box to the factory intake. It gives smooth curves and has plenty of capacity. From the front of the battery box I dropped down similar to Oemy's but I used aluminum sheet metal to form a box with a slight angle at the bottom toward the front of the coach. It moves plenty of air as it has 3 times the area of the factory tubing up to the engine. I insulated the battery box and the aluminum box with dynomat in an effort to reduce noise.....but it was noisier than I would like. I then lined everything under the engine cover with more dynomat. It helped a lot, especially the engine fan noise, but it is still noisy when the engine is pulling at low RPM. I may put the stock air intake back on with some modifications to reduce some of the restriction. One place to change is the oval connection out of the back of the stock filter box. It seems to be a mismatch that would restrict flow. I know it will cost me some power at full throttle, especially at higher speeds, but I doubt it will hurt cruising performance much at all.

My 2 cents worth,
Dave

[oemtech]

Quote:

Originally Posted by kstrails OEMTEC, In your intallation,does the battery box you used have a cover or lid ? Also would you still have the part #s used for pipe and rubber fittings?

3" Polished-Aluminum-Mandrel-Bends $24.50x2 $49

3.75" to 4" Silicone-Reducers $32.50

3"x12" Silicone-Hose-3-Ply-By-the-Foot $26

3.25" to 4" Steel-Liner-Clamp $2.05x4 = $8.20

Prices have gone up since I did mine.

["007"]

Installed the Brazels CAI and found it to be throaty as DriVer said, but sure has a Hummm out of them rear duels.

[oemtech]

Quote:

Dale, That looks interesting. Did you run the numbers before and after? Just wondering if the volume is as much as it was ...

No...

Quote:

In moving air a big hole is always better than a small one however the dryer vent used in your exhibit has less sq inches of cross section it would appear from the photo. Not that's a bad thing. Would you not agree that attenuating noise might reduce the volumetric efficiency of the device. I believe for the same reasons that why hi-flow exhaust systems are more efficient but noisy!

That's not a dryer vent, it's 90 degree floor register with a 6" exit. I don't think the volumetric efficiency was effected much. But, the relocation of the air inlet moves the sound attenuation further away, thus less noise to the driver/passenger.

Quote:

I'm also wondering if there is any math involved in regard to the distance between the MAF and the intake manifold in regard to back pressure or whatever other physics exist in the intake?

I would suspect it would, but I will leave that to the "engineering types".

Quote:

I'm not liking so much the sharp bend in the stock intake plus all the pleats in the intake tubing but those are there I expect to compensate for vibration, stretch and quite possibly fatigue. All of those features would appear not to be doing very much for efficient air flow!

I don't like them either. I looked at rerouting mine straight out and down to an air box. IE - move the MAF and CAI. But, there just wasn't the room. Option 2 was to replace the the tube with polished aluminum tubing, silicone tube connectors and SS clamps. Ruled that out due to what it cost compared to what you get in return. Poor ROI!

[JimElliott]

It was either "Crus or Tony pedregon" that superseded my whiz bang math formula for the cold air entering the engine......

Pedregon stated, For every 1º colder equals 1 horse at the carb....During the summer desert heat with a stock air cleaner my temps at the carb were 165º and now with the cold air intake system the temps dropped 40º plus. I'll take it.

Driving over to Quartzsite in January my carb temps averaged around 105º, All temps are measured with the electronic probe in the air cleaner...

Jim

[gg]

Has anyone documented a gain in fuel economy with their MH in real world driving when exchanging out the Factory Cold air intake/Filter Vs K&N and the 100s of other mfgs ?

I thought the engine control managment system on the 2001 and on models with Cat exhaust system mixes at 14.7 air to fuel reguardless. so less air less fuel?

[CoastieSCPO]

This thread is really quite timely for me. I just received the Ultra CAI from Oemy on Friday and the plans are to install it this week sometimes. Looking forward to getting it in and taking the rig on test drive. Got the new Scan Gauge II programmed by da MAN also. Whooppee!

Bob

[dieselclacker]

Quote:

Originally Posted by gg Has anyone documented a gain in fuel economy with their MH in real world driving when exchanging out the Factory Cold air intake/Filter Vs K&N and the 100s of other mfgs ? I thought the engine control managment system on the 2001 and on models with Cat exhaust system mixes at 14.7 air to fuel reguardless. so less air less fuel?

I think the 14.7 parts of COLD air when mixed with 1 part of fuel will produce more power than 14.7 parts of warm air when mixed with that same 1 part of fuel. So more power, less fuel consumption to produce necessary energy to move same vehicle, blah-blah-blah.
As to if its economically a good thing to do to your motorhome, well I suppose thats an individual thing. One thing for sure its sure going to sound like it has more power with one of these systems on it.

Dieselclacker