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Old 05-21-2006, 12:39 PM   #1
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We have been on a trip so I am just getting to this air retrofit while the RV is in the garage for a while before we leave again... also I waited until I thought I could do it right the first time. I learned about using a battery box and sound deadening it. So now I have a couple of questions..

I have a S&B part number RO832 for the filter. Is this the best S&B style filter to use? Also - why use S&B - I saw a large cone style air intake filter at Autozone that had a chrome wire frame that looked pretty good. I am not up to speed on retrofit air filters and I heard there was even another S&B part number that was a better filter?? Also the MAF sensor has evidently gotten damp since it was changed after it flooded from tuba water long ago. Everything seems to work fine and MPG is good and performance is good - can I assume the MAF is good?

By the way - thanks from all of us out here for you guys assisting with a DIY air filter retrofit- I had thought about moving it to a drier location --but would have never tried it by myself without the IRV2 group help and it would not have been done as nice without your experience and trials.

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Old 05-21-2006, 12:39 PM   #2
Fillitup is offline
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We have been on a trip so I am just getting to this air retrofit while the RV is in the garage for a while before we leave again... also I waited until I thought I could do it right the first time. I learned about using a battery box and sound deadening it. So now I have a couple of questions..

I have a S&B part number RO832 for the filter. Is this the best S&B style filter to use? Also - why use S&B - I saw a large cone style air intake filter at Autozone that had a chrome wire frame that looked pretty good. I am not up to speed on retrofit air filters and I heard there was even another S&B part number that was a better filter?? Also the MAF sensor has evidently gotten damp since it was changed after it flooded from tuba water long ago. Everything seems to work fine and MPG is good and performance is good - can I assume the MAF is good?

By the way - thanks from all of us out here for you guys assisting with a DIY air filter retrofit- I had thought about moving it to a drier location --but would have never tried it by myself without the IRV2 group help and it would not have been done as nice without your experience and trials.

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Old 05-21-2006, 01:01 PM   #3
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The S&B filter you have is a good as any they make. Its more, does it fit the application than anything else. In other words, does it fit your DIY box?

As far as AZ filters... How it looks is the last thing you what to be worried about. check the specs and see how it is built and compare it to a S&B 8 layer filter.

As long as the MAF components are not damaged it should be good to go.

As far as location... you are limited.

Me I don't like driving in the rain so I usually find a place to park and wait it out. There are to many idiots that think a little rain should slow them down and that's another reason I get off the road in heavy rain.
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Old 05-21-2006, 04:10 PM   #4
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I'm going to get started on a CAI too. Just did a product searck at SB using R0832 and RO832 and got nothing. Ideas? Looking for price, that will do.
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Old 05-21-2006, 04:49 PM   #5
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It is on their S&B product list for about 41 bucks or so. R ZERO 832 ---R0832. At least that is what I think is being used. One question I had that had me looking around was that it is "oiled" if I understand right and I am not sure what oil would do to the MAF if it ever got there...Like I originally said - I am not an air filter guy but after the right parts are there this thing looks pretty easy - just a little time and 75 or so bucks...
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Old 05-21-2006, 05:10 PM   #6
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Guys take look at my photo section and you will see my 1st CAI using a battery box , some sewer pipe and a rubber cap.

There is a company that makes a 3.75" to 4" silicone boot to connect the MAF to the CAI pipe. MAF-CAI Reducer

If the air filter is properly oiled you will not damage the MAF. Most folks just add to much oil. Just add a light coat and let set for 20 or so mintues so the oil can be absorbed evenly. Add a second if necessary. In other words read and follow the instructions
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Old 05-21-2006, 06:24 PM   #7
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Dale, you've done a fabulous job of fabricating and documenting this CAI. I can see that a lot of thought went into the project. I'm wondering why not go straight over the top of the rad and the ECMs, direct to the intake manifold, kind of like the Corvette intake system. What am I missing here?
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Old 05-22-2006, 03:03 AM   #8
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<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by rca:
What am I missing here? </div></BLOCKQUOTE>You want to make sure that you introduce as few openings as possible in the rubber fabric shield between the body and the top of the radiator shroud.

If your fabric is missing it needs to be replaced.

Porting the intake air using existing plumbing appears to cause no performance degradation.
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Old 05-22-2006, 04:08 AM   #9
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I have looked at this option. But, you have relocate the ECM, the MAF and/or modify the air sheild that DriVer referred to. Other than a shorter air run I don't think that ROI (return on investment) is worth it.

OBTW - I use to own a 82 Corvette!
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Old 05-22-2006, 07:54 AM   #10
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Hi Guyz, I see the DIY-CAI is still a topic of great interest. This past weekend we went out to Lancaster PA for the Mid Atlantic spring rally. I must say I am so impressed with the Beast. Running along at a cruise there is no noticable intake drone, getting into the peddel you will here some intake noise, I personally like the sound of the big block sucking wind. The amazing thing is, the additional peddel response, and the increased mileage. I saw 11.4 mpg on the trip computer after 75 miles from starting after a fill up, and this wasn't even with continuos highway cruising ! And all this for $98. and a couple hrs of my time. For the nah sayers I took pics of the trip meter while going down the road, I will post them ASAP. Remember I also have the free flowing mufflers along with the beast, come on PCM upgrade, I can't imagine the MPG increase.
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Old 05-22-2006, 08:35 AM   #11
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I do drive in the rain although slowly and if this retrofit will at least JUST FIX this W22 water ingestion problem I will be pleased. Any performance or mileage increase is just icing on the cake. Workhorse/Newmar had TRIED to fix this water problem about 4 times and I want something better - and YES 007 I put that gasket on the door (didn't work). I am still not sure if I trust it although last time in the rain it did OK. I want something I trust better. This air filter box WH uses could not have been cheaper flimsey POS and the location in the front wheelwell is not too bright either. Thank you all for working on this - Workhorse should have put as much effort into it as you guys - they would have probably saved money and several product slams on their product on other websites. BTW OEM I had a 77 vette and a 90 vette - that 82 you had was a Silver Anniversary Edition if I remember. NICE.
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Old 05-22-2006, 08:55 AM   #12
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Fillitup - I crafted my CAI for my '05 Scottsdale for the same reason you are considering it - you can check my posts for pics etc - but, in the end it solved my water ingestion problem. The weekend of May 12th, it rained like crazy in S. Indiana and I drove my coach in some of the hardest rain.....never missed a lick. I owned a 63 split window coupe for 25 years 1971 to 1996.
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Old 05-22-2006, 05:37 PM   #13
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Thats what a DYI CAI may do for you, if yer engine don't blow up first.

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