<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by rgrstndgby:
Guess I didn't understand it was a test...rgr... </div></BLOCKQUOTE>
Neither did I. Did we fail?
Maybe caseydogsdad meant it as a compliment to the forum members who replied when he wrote that NOBODY said what Workhorse did.
WH's reply does sound a bit far-fetched, but I think it's just not well explained and there is some validity to it. (Except for the part about the bearings getting hot and burning up.)
I think what they are trying to say is that the driveshafts should not be in a perfectly straight line so as to keep the u-joints' bearing cups moving. As a u-joint operates, the bearing cups move slightly back and forth on the "X" or trunnion. This keeps the needle bearings working and the lubricant distibuted inside each cup.
It is recommended (by GM anyway) that a U-joint NOT be in a perfectly straight line with it's respective shafts and that there should be some angle. This is referred to as the U-joint's "Working Angle". There are spec's. for this depending on the application and measurements can be made to verify if the angles are too much OR too little.
GM Service Information indicates the following...
"¢ No U-joint working angle should be equal to zero. An angle of 0 degrees will cause premature U-joint wear due to a lack of rotation of the needle bearings in the U-joint.
"¢ No U-joint working angle should exceed 4 degrees.
And for a driveshaft that has a front and rear joint, the difference between the two U-joints' working angles should be between .25 and 1.0 degrees.
These angles are very slight, but are important for U-joint longevity and prevention of vibration. Don't forget to grease 'em too.