Relay to fuse block

[millred1]

Hello all, I am having a hard time finding a relay/ Solinoid that controls power to a fuse block located in an outside storage comp. This fuse block powers my slides, Fans ect. the part store has solioids but they all have positive trips and the 1 I have is a negative. RV shop says they have no idea. Does anyone know were I can get 1

Thanks

Jeff

[oemtech]

Need some info on the year, make and model of the coach? Also, what chassis -W19, W20, W22, W24 ?

[wa8yxm]

Is this the main house battery cut off (disconnect) solenoid?

Solenoids come in two types.. One is designed so that you apply power for an instant and it switches from ON to OFF or OFF to ON depending on which of it's two "coil" leads is positive, The other is designed, normally, to be "on" whenever power is applied and "Off" when it's not applied.

In the first case there is always two large bolt type terminals, and 2 small ones, the two small ones are the coil.. This type *IS* polarity sensitive.

In the second case. IF there are two small bolts, one is normally "hot" and the other normally "Grounded" when it's in the "ON" condition. Does not matter which is which.

A third (Actually 2b) has only one small terminal.. This type the case itself is grounded.

Look for one with two small terminals that otherwise matches your needs.

NOTE: Starter solenoids will not work here, they are designed for short term operation and if you hold them engaged for more than a couple minutes... They burn up. (The coil)

[millred1]

The solinoid is on a 2003 w 22 chassis. It is a continuos duty with 2 large terminals on either side and a single smaller post in the front. There is 12v negative when the ignition is in the on position. It controls slides, front overhead fans and several aux outputs. I found at the auto parts store what appeared to be exactly what I needed. BUT it takes a positive to close the relay....Still looking

Jeff

[YC1]

Post a picture of it and I guarantee someone will find a source. If the solenoid has two small terminals that is all you need to find. One is hot and the other is ground or switched ground.

[Clay L]

Something doesn't sound right. Solenoids are not polarity sensitive as a rule.
If this one is activated by the ignition switch run terminal there should be plus 12 volts on the solenoid terminal.
Is the relay frame grounded? If so then the solenoid must be activated by a plus voltage.

Latching solenoids can be polarity sensitive but they have two large terminals and two small signal terminals and that is not what you say you have.

[wa8yxm]

I'm wondering where the 12 volt NEGATIVE is coming from myself.

And I do agree, save for the latching solenoids like Intelletec uses for the main disconnects they are not polarity sensitive.

There is no negative anywhere near the ignition switch.. it is all positive. less the coach is wired neg ground, which Workhorse does not do.

[mfire1339]

switch the leads on your tester.


Mike

[YC1]

Quote:

Originally Posted by mfire1339 switch the leads on your tester. Mike

That just might be the issue. A solenoid with one control wire would require B+ and not a ground.

[millred1]

I know where U are coming from on the ignition not supplying a - voltage. I check again and the %$^ thing will not close with a positive to the small post. with the ignition in the on position the wire that termiates on the small post to pull in the coil is - no voltage between it and the frame but 12v from it to the positive on the large post. It's a negative, I cannot find where it comes from yet ( we are in Roan Mountain state park in Tenn ) But when I get home I am going to tear into and find out how. In the mean time I am having to jump it out to move the slides. Not that big a deal but no power to my overhead fans.

Thanks for the help

[Nuge]

Your smaller control wire MAY be grounded giving you the 12 vdc reading to the positive. If it was just open or you had a blown fuse there would be a 0 v reading..Try a resistance reading to ground to verify this..To get by for now just put both large power leads on the same stud

[millred1]

I ordered a solinoid that has a grounded trip, Got it today and no go So I followed the coil wire from the solinoid and it goes to a isolation relay on the other side. The isolation relay has 12V +, 12V, - ignition, ground and outputs. going out today and I'm going to try a jumper from the other solinoid that feeds the other fuse block, If this fails I'm installing a manual switch to control it....

Thanks for the advise all


Jeff

[dave001]

Hi there,

Have you looked at your ignition switch on your steering column? It sounds like the issue I had not long ago, which resulted in a burnt ignition switch, caused by an overload on the AUX circuit of that ign switch. It can only handle 30 Amps and most of the time, from my own readings, MH manufacturers will overload it slightly, causing it to burn after a while. This switch cost around 30 bucks and is relatively easy to change, but you need to ensure to note the proper reassembly sequence before taking it out for replacement.

As well, this will be a temp fix. As you can imagine, just replacing the switch without isolating that overloaded circuit will cause the problem to come back. You will have to buy a relay and run a 40Amps circuit from your battery.

Let me know if this does the trick.

Thanks,
Dave