Replacing front airbags on a Winnebago

[RocketDork]

I have a Winnebago Brave SE 31B (31 ft). I bought it used from a local dealer and have some work that I need to do on it.

The Steering damper is soaked in oil, I believe it needs replaced. It looks fairly simple, I think I can do it myself. Is the stock workhorse damper a good choice or should I select a suitable aftermarket replacement?

The airbags in the front springs are punctured and won't hold air. Is this a job a reasonable backyard mechanic can do himself? What is involved?

I've done engine rebuilds, a single transmission rebuild (still working after almost 10 years!), so I feel like I'm pretty skilled at most mechanical things. I have a pretty complete tool set too, and I'm never afraid to buy a new tool!

This is my first motor home, and I like it a lot, but driving it in gusty winds is just frightening. I plan to begin with the steering damper and airbags, then move on to other solutions to get the thing to handle better. I'll not overlook the obvious, like tire inflation pressures, weight and loading.

Been lurking here for a few days...I like this place!

[RocketDork]

I have a Winnebago Brave SE 31B (31 ft). I bought it used from a local dealer and have some work that I need to do on it.

The Steering damper is soaked in oil, I believe it needs replaced. It looks fairly simple, I think I can do it myself. Is the stock workhorse damper a good choice or should I select a suitable aftermarket replacement?

The airbags in the front springs are punctured and won't hold air. Is this a job a reasonable backyard mechanic can do himself? What is involved?

I've done engine rebuilds, a single transmission rebuild (still working after almost 10 years!), so I feel like I'm pretty skilled at most mechanical things. I have a pretty complete tool set too, and I'm never afraid to buy a new tool!

This is my first motor home, and I like it a lot, but driving it in gusty winds is just frightening. I plan to begin with the steering damper and airbags, then move on to other solutions to get the thing to handle better. I'll not overlook the obvious, like tire inflation pressures, weight and loading.

Been lurking here for a few days...I like this place!

[DickNJo]

Hi. Go to Find in the header, type in airbag and you will find a wealth of info on these pesky bags, including a first class pdf file on replacing them. However, for a little more money and not a great deal more work you can get springs to replace the stock springs and eliminate forever the bags. Good Luck

[1995Brave]

Since you got the RV used(like i did) here are a few things you need to check/do. First is change the stablizer shock(i used stock replacement), then grease every joint you can find, and then check and adjust or replace the bell cranks(mine needed adjusted). If you have the front sway bar check the rubber, mine was deteriorated and replaced them with the new silicon ones. As for the air bags, cut the old ones out and when you go to install the new ones, soak them in very hot water for a while before rolling them up( they roll up smaller)then tie them with tiewraps or string and push them through the hole.

[RocketDork]

Well after reading about 100 posts from the search, I come away with a couple of different things.

First, the airbags are a problem.

Second, the seem to be easy to install.

Naturally, I developed some questions along the way.

1. I think the Airlift airbags may be the way to go, they are priced about 30% more than the Stock Workhorse bags, but include a fill relocation system that I really like. A call to Airlift says that workhorse didn't make a chassis with coil springs on the front in 1999 (the year my chassis was made). I can see very clearly the coil springs on my MH. If Airlift doesn't have the bags...who else could provide a good system?

Right now, due to complexity, I don't think I'll replace the springs, just the airbags. Quotes from one place was $550 and the other $800-1000...to much in my opinion.

Finding that "first class PDF file" was very, very difficult. The link is broken.

So now on to the steering damper? any advise on the workhorse version vs another company?

[parts_expert]

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by RocketDork:

The Steering damper is soaked in oil, I believe it needs replaced. It looks fairly simple, I think I can do it myself. Is the stock workhorse damper a good choice or should I select a suitable aftermarket replacement?

</div></BLOCKQUOTE>

What model chassis do you have? I'd guess that since you have a steering stabilizer and coils/bags on your rig, you have a P32.

The OEM stabilizers are made by Bilstein or Monroe, depending on application, so they are already good stuff.

[RocketDork]

Not too familiar with the chassis types, but I know that its a WorkHorse and that it is a "P" series chassis (Service manual is GREAT!). As to the number, I'm not sure. I believe I saw another post that says that the P37 that's in my VIN indicates its a P32?

I'll go ahead an order the OEM version of stabilizer.

[parts_expert]

"P37" in the vin or "P57" in the vin indicate a P32 model

what year is your vehicle?

Better yet what is the last 8 digits of your chassis vin?

[RocketDork]

According to the workhorse website the chassis is a 1999, last 8 of the VIN X3309568. Their web page indicates the the model/wheelbase is CP31932.

Not sure what all that means, I'm kinda new the the motor home world, still learning a lot.

[Bucky1]

The springs are the slick setup, but I do understand your reluctance with the price difference. I just replaced the bags in my 90 p30 with Airlifts. They were pretty reasonably priced I thought. They were a bit of a PIA to get in. Out was no problem. Used a sawsall and cut between every coil. Be sure to get aligned afterwords since ride height changes. I replaced shocks and steering stabilizer, and replaced the rear sway bar and front and rear bushings with poly bushings. The bar and bushings were probably the best change after the air bags. Oh, get a feel for how much air you want in the bags before aligning. There is a ride height spec that is wise to used when finding proper pressure. You are on the right track in my opinion.

[parts_expert]

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by RocketDork:
According to the workhorse website the chassis is a 1999, last 8 of the VIN X3309568. Their web page indicates the the model/wheelbase is CP31932.

Not sure what all that means, I'm kinda new the the motor home world, still learning a lot. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

the stabilizer number you need is W8801051. This is a Monroe.

[RocketDork]

Thanks!

[RocketDork]

I called airlift yesterday about the bags...the guy on the phone wasn't very helpful and said they didn't have a kit for the 1999 workhorse chassis I have. He did say that if I measured the ID of the springs, and the length of the spring with weight on it, that he could most likely find something that would work.

Does anybody know that info? I tried to get a good measurement on the spring ID last night, but really couldn't do a good job, because the bag is in the way.

[DriVer]

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by RocketDork:
Does anybody know that info? I tried to get a good measurement on the spring ID last night, but really couldn't do a good job, because the bag is in the way. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>Call Mike at Brazel's or Keith at Redlands. They will have all the info about the air cylinders that you are likely to need.