Required Services

[Finhawk]

Looking thru the Owners Manual, I noticed that an oil/filter change is required every 3 months or 3000 miles. I have never gone by time, only milage , in any vehicle I have ever owned. What is the rationale behind this and how does it affect the warrenty? I think it would be a waste of money to change after only a few miles.
The manual says nothing about about changing brake fluid-----at least I couldn't find it.
Tire rotation? How many folks rotate them at 6000 miles? Is it really necessary?

[Finhawk]

Looking thru the Owners Manual, I noticed that an oil/filter change is required every 3 months or 3000 miles. I have never gone by time, only milage , in any vehicle I have ever owned. What is the rationale behind this and how does it affect the warrenty? I think it would be a waste of money to change after only a few miles.
The manual says nothing about about changing brake fluid-----at least I couldn't find it.
Tire rotation? How many folks rotate them at 6000 miles? Is it really necessary?

[CJBROWN]

Hey finny,
Cool old boat you got there. When I was a kid mom and dad had a 34' fairliner sedan, and later a chris cavelier tri-cabin. I still have some family up there, and one of my aunts lives in Olympia. God's country for sure! My sis bought a 40' Carver last year, they're up in Everett. And they just got a Winnebago Tour. I think they're going to sell the boat though

I think your OCI's (oil change interval)are based on severe service for a box van on the workhorse chassis. For an RV, once a year or 10K miles is what's recommended. I wouldn't go that long unless it was a synthetic, I'd stay with 5-7K if it were me, but definately once a year. I'm sure there other opinions on it, and a lot of folks don't see the value of using synthetic lubricants.

Definately change the brake fluid, in fact sooner is better than later. I'm starting to think they are contaminated from the factory. I've never seen brake fluid look so horrible when I flushed mine. It does show up in the chassis manual, I think Driver has a link to download it in PDF. Great read for sure.

I do rotate tires at around 12K. Just because fronts tend to wear the shoulders more than the rears. Again, some of the guys don't see value in it, especially since few of us will wear them out in their 6-7 year life span. They do need to be replaced by then regardless of miles. And they're expensive!

Congrats on the new rig!

[MikeT]

At the seminars at Myrtle Beach, it was highly recommended to change oil every 3K due to RV service is considered severe.

Brake Fluid Change

[Finhawk]

Mike
I have no problem with the 3000 mile change. I never go beyond that with any vehicle I have owned. My main question is about the 3 month change. I can see no reason for it if the rig is not driven in traffic every day or never has a chance to get up to operating temp.
My main concer is what will happen to the warrenty if I go past 3 months
Bruce

[CoastieSCPO]

I always change my oil based on mileage, not time. I do not believe that you would have warranty problems if you went over on the 3 month period when a rig has been parked for an extended period of time. This is my opinion. After all, how can an RV be considered to be under severe service when it's parked?

Bob

[-Gramps-]

Time is just a way to sell more oil. What difference does it make if the oil is in a can on the shelf or in the oil pan of your rig?

[oemtech]

3k or 3 months really doesn't apply in todays engines do to tighter tolerances and oil formulations (synthetics). Otherwise why would GM develop the OLF (Oil Life monitor) system. Yes, this system is alive and well in the 8.1L used on the Workhorse chassis. It's to bad that the Acita cluster doesn't use it. I have verified this with a Scangauge II and oil analysis form Blackstone labs. Under normal driving conditions you can run 5k or more.

The Scangauge II showed 41% when my trip to Myrtle Beach started and 24% when I returned.

I have my TBN (Total Base Number) and TAN (Total Acid Number) checked when I have my oil tested. The TBN is the amount of the additive package that is left in the oil and the TAN is how acidic the oil has gotten.

[edgray]

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">What difference does it make if the oil is in a can on the shelf or in the oil pan of your rig? </div></BLOCKQUOTE>
the unopened can on the shelf does not accumulate condensation as does the pan on your engine. Simple temperature variations can cause condensation. Periodic driving to acheive operating temperatures will help drive out the collected moisture thru evaporation. The acid # which Dale refers to is critical even if the oil is not being circulated. ED

[John-D]

In days of old oil change intervals were usually 5,000 miles to 7,500 miles. NOTE:this is for cars.

Then cars got smaller, they use smaller, higher rev engines (like 4 lung instead of big block V-8's) and people changed, instead of mostly rual driving where the corner grocery store might well be a 20 minute drive, folks are driving literally to the corner (My wife will Drive to CVS pharmacy.. Now if you walk out my back gate.. What you see, directly across the street? CVS pharmacy, what else, it is quite literally across the street, though it is 1/2 lock to get around the wall) (PS. I still walk to that store)

So they lowered it to 3,000 miles

Now on the Chevy 8.1 in my workhorse they cite two intervals. 3,000 for stop & go short hop city driving. (IE:trips like I took yestarday, (Got gas,1.579/gallon, Today it's 1.669, Guess I picked a good day ) it is 3,000 miles

For trips where you crank it up and don't shut down for an hour or more (Actually I think it's 30 minutes) 7,500 And since I use synthetic.. Well. I can push that if I have to.

[CoastieSCPO]

During the periods of time when the rig sits, like now, I like to take it out for a ride about every two weeks or so. We don't go far, maybe 40 or 50 miles total, just to get the tires warm, engine to operating temps, the brakes exercised and the oil hot.


It also improves my attitude, just to get behind the wheel and take that Workhorse down the road.

Bob

[Finhawk]

All these comments are great and I agree with all of you.
But the unanswered question remains. As far as Workhorse is concerned, how does exceeeding the 3 month period affect the warrenty??? I'd hate to blow an engine and be told to kiss off because I excceded the time frame that they set

[edgray]

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">But the unanswered question remains. As far as Workhorse is concerned, how does exceeeding the 3 month period affect the warrenty??? </div></BLOCKQUOTE>
Sorry for your frustration, but there is nobody HERE that is qualified or authorized to answer your question. Perhaps you should contact the company's warranty administration dept. Try calling 1-877-946-7731 and ask them to connect you. ED

[two2go]

I agree, no warranty "experts" here. I would think that if GM puts an oil life calculator system on a vehicle and you change oil according to its indication, you have all the legal standing you need if any lubrication-related problems develop.
I have to wonder if there been many if any failures of modern engines within the 3 year warranty period under any reasonable oil change schedules? Other than running low or out of oil?
FWIW, I am out of warranty on 2 of 3 vehicles. I rely on the GM oil life indicator for the MH and toad, which is pretty much in line with my 5k mile interval preference. I use synthetic and go up to one year max. I have used a 5k mile change interval since the 80's on many different vehicles with no problems in their useful life, some going to 150k miles. I am at peace with myself.