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Old 02-04-2008, 02:47 AM   #1
RICK SUSA is offline
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right rear brakes hanging could not get up to speed..pulled over smoke coming for right rear.let it cool down must have released it self...back on freeway and all was ok but concerned....my chassis #5B43376985 2004 6,000miles...i have read about brake recalls,plus what brand of brake calipers do i have with my chaasis...read about slider pins being lubed.if any one has lubed their slider pins would love to hear from.concerned but it was a matter of time for non use...any comments welcome.....thanks.....rick..2-4-2008..W-22 workhorse

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Old 02-04-2008, 02:47 AM   #2
RICK SUSA is offline
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right rear brakes hanging could not get up to speed..pulled over smoke coming for right rear.let it cool down must have released it self...back on freeway and all was ok but concerned....my chassis #5B43376985 2004 6,000miles...i have read about brake recalls,plus what brand of brake calipers do i have with my chaasis...read about slider pins being lubed.if any one has lubed their slider pins would love to hear from.concerned but it was a matter of time for non use...any comments welcome.....thanks.....rick..2-4-2008..W-22 workhorse

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Old 02-04-2008, 08:42 AM   #3
jdsr is offline
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a wh shop lubed mine. 5 weeks later I had another brake failure. If you are having or have had brake problems please report to nhtsa
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Old 02-04-2008, 09:40 AM   #4
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You don't just lube the guide pins. This is a common mistake that many people make. You need to clean and lubricate the pins along with the caliper and pad guides machined into the caliper mount. Make sure you get all the rust and any rough spots/ridges cleaned up on the machined caliper and pad guides and if they are too bad consider replacing the caliper mount also. The guide pins only keep the caliper inbetween the machined surfaces of the mount which is the real structure that the caliper relies on to stop it.

In the past 40 years I have seen too many (even "professionals") put good new calpers on rusty old defective mounts and then continue to experience the same problems as before sometimes immediatly other times after a few thousand miles and the worn spots align with a pad baking plate or the edge of the caliper.

I have to wonder how many mechanics out there are really qualified to work on brakes nowadays. I had to straighten out another guys really bad "Factory Certified" work not that long ago. The "Factory Trained" mechanic put the pads in backwards this time. He put the pads against the caliper and the backing plates against the rotors. The calpers were not properly lubed either with just a dab on the end of the guide pins. Had to toss the pads and rotors clean everything up and do the job right. I checked the rear drums on this truck while I was at it and they did not clean, lubricate or properly set the adjusters either having set them way too tight. The drums were now out of round and beyound turning and had to be replaced also along with the new but badly burned shoes. Thankfully it did not look like the rear axel seals or wheel cylinders had been cooked.

Get it serviced and hopefully you will get a mechanic who will do a competant job of cleaning and lubing everything properly and not just put a dab of grease here and there and then slap it all back together.

Keep an eye on the NHTSA investigation and log on to their web site to see if your chassis is involved but do not sit on getting it serviced in the meantime.
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Old 02-04-2008, 04:04 PM   #5
exrench is offline
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I am very happy to see the post by NeilV responding to the approach many have taken to "slide lubrication"Those who have lubed sliders without removing wheels have wasted their time and set themselves up for brake grief.If I could add to NeilV's excellent post, it is very important to remove the stainless steel reaction pad on the thrust side end of the pads and scrape,file any rust or scale found underneath that pad and apply slider grease to that surface and replace the stainless pad.The reason being, that rust that "grows underneath the stainless part will expand and bind the pads,causing the problems so often related in this forum.The grease will reduce the tendency of the rust to form.
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Old 02-05-2008, 02:47 AM   #6
RICK SUSA is offline
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does anyone know if these calipers are 1 piston or 2......thanks for all comments....rick...2-5-08....and are the front and rear calipers the same....maybe mike over at brazels rv could chime in and tell us a little bit about how these calipers operate. they seem to be a stand up shop.
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Old 02-05-2008, 02:14 PM   #7
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Is there an ilustrated procedure for this maintenance?

All of this brake talk is motivating me to inspect this.

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