Set timing w/which wire

[JimElliott]

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Bucky1,
You may be missing a step in checking your timing, you must time it off #1 but you must also disconnect the SET TIMING connector (tan/black wire) located in harness close to distributor. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

Steve how can one use time #1 plug when the timing tab is next to impossible to see with everything in the way.

Now IF the lower timing tab is available (4:30 drivers position) the #5 plug can be used and yes I agree the tan/black wire MUST be removed.

Jim

[tech@brazelsrv]

Jim,
I don't build them, just relaying the procedure.

[Bucky1]

Steve,
How do YOU do it? Is there a way to weasle around to see the top marks?

[JimElliott]

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Jim,
I don't build them, just relaying the procedure.

Steve Brazel
Brazel's RV Performance
Dyno Tuning/Chassis Specialists </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

No disagreement on my side........
Another way is to use a piston stop (#1) and rotate the engine both ways (stop to stop) and remark the balancer (cut,scribe or paint)it, The difference between the two piston stop marks is halved and thats TDC.
Install the NEW stationary pointer on the pan or whatever is close and away you go.
Last way is IF you can alighn the balancer mark on the upper timing tab by using a mirror "tuff" one can build the new tab below.
Anyway to do the job the initial setup will be a pain.....OBD Port?...Buy a Scangauge

Jim

[Bucky1]

I can see what you are suggesting. Line up #1 on TDC on the top gage with a mirror and make a mark on the bottom. I can see using a piston stop too, but haven't tried turning over an engine by hand using the belts for a while. I suppose that crank bolt is in there tight enough that I could go forward and backward. If it EVER stops raining here, I may just try that. Or, I could just keep feeding it a little timing and keep and eye on it. When it complains, back off a couple degrees.
I commented to my wife that setting the timing on these by yourself is a PIA. I don't even want to count the number of trips in and out of the motorhome and then down under I made.
I think mine is too old for OBD port. 90'

[JimElliott]

Yep, 2º at a time (advance) until you hear the marbles would do the job...
Detonation now is another story and "TUFF" to dig out.
One day at 113º a cold air package was in the test stage with a "Digital thermometer" dropped into the air cleaner (rear) and around 156º at the carb at 60 MPH I heard a slight but steady ping (91 octane) and knew the timing was on the raged edge, Pulled over and installed the additional snout (in front of the radiator) and turned the rig around for the next run.
Temps at the carb base dropped to 124º and the ever so slight ping was gone, That 30º+ temp drop at the carb netted me another 30 HP OR gained back the 30+ HP that was lost due to the excessive heat.
Bottom line is a little here and a dab there will wake up any engine, Look at what "Banks" says about the HP & torque gains.

Jim

[Mutha]

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by Bucky1:
......I think mine is too old for OBD port. 90'.... </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

Bucky1, You will have a OBD I connector on your coach. It should be located under your dash, probably just to the left of the steering column. A scan guage will work just fine, and they really give you a lot of useful info while underway.

Good luck - Glenn

[Bucky1]

Hmmm. Pretty cool. Expensive? I use computers on the race car, but that's it so far. I like the sounds of this!

[Bucky1]

Oh, and a 30 degree drop is really impressive!

[dieselclacker]

[QUOTE]Originally posted by Bucky1:


Bucky, I once owned an 87 model motorome with the 454, and the timing indicator was indeed located below the harmonic balancer, and # 5 cylinder was more convenient to connect to than #1 cylinder plug wire. Almost all engines with even numbered cylinders where the connecting rods share the same crankshaft throw can be timed using the cylinder plug wire that is half way down the firing order from #1. One noteable exception that I recall was the early V-6 Engine used in some Buicks and Jeeps of yeateryear. They had a distributer with one offset lobe that extended the timing to one of the cylinders, for the purpose of cooling as I remember. Try it sometime on an engine thats easily accessable.


Dieselclacker

On edit: The above applies of course only to engines equipped with distributors, and less computer controlled individual plug firing times.

[Bucky1]

Thank you!

[AmtrakEngnr]

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by tech@brazelsrv:
Bucky1,
You may be missing a step in checking your timing, you must time it off #1 but you must also disconnect the SET TIMING connector (tan/black wire) located in harness close to distributor. This will disable computer control and allow you to time it at base. DO NOT disconnect 4 wire connector at distributor.Tighten hold down and recheck the timing. Stop the engine and connect SET TIMING connector. Clear ECM trouble code by disconnecting ECM power source. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

You can time it off of #5. (Per the 1993 Chevrolet motorhome chassis service guide) The timing chain cover has two pointers. One up at the 1:30 position and another at the 4:30 position. Had the engine been installed into a pickup, you could time it off of #1. Since it is kinda hard to see the upper mark, just time it off of #5. I know that a TBI'd smallblock used to call for 0 degrees and I want to say the big blocks were around 4. Can't remember right off the top of my head.
As far as the light goes, take a paper clip, make a U shape and stick it in terminals A and B (so they are shorted together.) The Check Engine light will flash the code. You should get a code 12 (one flash, a pause and then 2 flashes) that is standard when the engine is off and the key is on and the PCM is in self diagnostic mode. It will do this 3 times, then it will flash the code that is making the light illuminate. Count the flashes and then you should be able to look it up in a service manual or a mitchell manual.

And yes, it is normal for the timing to shoot up once you plug the brown wire with a black tracer back in.

[Bucky1]

I need to get my SES light working first. I never have seen it light. It ran very well on a trip we took last week. Really like the extra timing.