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11-03-2007, 11:33 AM
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#1
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Junior Member
Join Date: May 2006
Location: So. CA
Posts: 23
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Would you still want to change the gap to.045 even if you didn't have the Ultrapower upgrade? Or would you leave it at the stock gap?....I'm currently changing out the wires
Thanks in advance,
Will
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11-03-2007, 11:33 AM
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#2
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Junior Member
Join Date: May 2006
Location: So. CA
Posts: 23
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Would you still want to change the gap to.045 even if you didn't have the Ultrapower upgrade? Or would you leave it at the stock gap?....I'm currently changing out the wires
Thanks in advance,
Will
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11-03-2007, 12:33 PM
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#3
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Senior Member
Monaco Owners Club
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: St. Cloud, FL
Posts: 1,528
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Maybe Driver can intervene here, but I'm almost sure I recall from one of Driver's earlier posts, that .045 spark plug gap comes from Workhorse. It's not Ultrapower that came up with it.
__________________
Bob 2006 Monaco Camelot 40PDQ
US Navy Carrier Battlegroup 1959/1965
Winters in Florida, Summers in Blue Ridge Mountains
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11-03-2007, 05:16 PM
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#4
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Jarrell, TX 76537
Posts: 4,501
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Without any other change I see no advantage to this.
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Dale
AKA - Oemy
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11-03-2007, 05:46 PM
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#5
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Senior Member
Workhorse Chassis Owner Rexhall Owners Group
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Everywhere,USA
Posts: 1,518
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Personally I don't see the need to replace the plugs or wires since they are good for 100,000+ miles and there is no noticeable difference in mileage or hp. Am I missing something here?
__________________
Full-Timers
in a
2003 Rexhall Aerbus 3550BSL
W22 Workhorse
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11-03-2007, 06:03 PM
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#6
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Moderator Emeritus
Winnebago Owners Club Workhorse Chassis Owner Coastal Campers Carolina Campers
Join Date: Jan 2000
Location: Conway, SC
Posts: 23,641
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<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by Bob (WA0MQE):
Maybe Driver can intervene here, but I'm almost sure I recall from one of Driver's earlier posts, that .045 spark plug gap comes from Workhorse. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>Workhorse specifies .065 gap on the original OEM spark plug.
__________________
03 Adventurer 38G, Workhorse W22
F&R Track Bars, Safety+ , Ultrapower, Taylor Extremes, SGII
TST 507, Blue Ox, SMI, Koni FSD, CrossFire
RV/MH Hall of Fame - Lifetime Member
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11-03-2007, 06:11 PM
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#7
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Jarrell, TX 76537
Posts: 4,501
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Full-Timers have you ever removed a set of wires and plugs that were not touched for 50k miles or more? Will I have and in most cases it is a real PITA. 90% of time you will destroy the wires when you remove them. Next you will probably spent a couple of hours trying to remove 2 or 3 plugs that are almost fuse in the head. Lastly I can tell you that 50k wire and plugs don't run like new - I don't care what GM, Ford or any other engineer tells you.
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Dale
AKA - Oemy
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11-05-2007, 04:15 PM
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#8
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Senior Member
Fleetwood Owners Club Ford Super Duty Owner
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Lafayette, LA
Posts: 410
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<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by oemtech:
Next you will probably spent a couple of hours trying to remove 2 or 3 plugs that are almost fuse in the head. Lastly I can tell you that 50k wire and plugs don't run like new - I don't care what GM, Ford or any other engineer tells you. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>OK, it makes sense. So, when (mileage) should the wires and plug be changed out?
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2003 Pace Arrow 34W, F-53 V-10 22,000#, 5-Star, Avg 7.7 MPG, ScanGauge II, 540 Watt Solar
WiFiRanger Elite Pack, WeBoost 4G-X, Voltage Booster, Progressive Industries EMS
Water Softener, Safe-T-Plus, Koni, Centramatic Balancers, CHF, Rear Trac Bar, EEZ TPMS
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11-06-2007, 04:06 AM
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#9
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Jarrell, TX 76537
Posts: 4,501
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Assuming you are not adding any performance mods I would pull the plug wires and plugs at about 10k for a look see. I would check the plug gap, add some "Never Seize" to the plugs, "Dielectric Grease " to the plug wires and reinstall. You should be good for another 20k.
__________________
Dale
AKA - Oemy
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11-09-2007, 02:14 PM
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#10
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Senior Member
Workhorse Chassis Owner
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Baraboo, Wisconsin
Posts: 1,728
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Thanks for the heads up on the plugs Dale, our motorhome will soon go into storage for the winter but I'm going to go out and check the plugs tomorrow!
__________________
Steve & Nancy
2005 Itasca Sunrise 33', W20 Chassis, Ultrapower, Henderson Trac Bar
2012 Chevy Captiva Sport AWD, ReadyBrute Elite Tow Bar, Blue Ox Base Plate, Protect-A-Tow
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11-10-2007, 02:36 PM
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#11
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Senior Member
Workhorse Chassis Owner
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Baraboo, Wisconsin
Posts: 1,728
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It's a done deal! Took longer to get the Dielectric Grease and Never Seize than it did to do the job once I got back home - about 45 minutes! One warning though for those thinking of doing this, the grease and anti-seize are not cheap! But the job itself is very much a "do it yourself" type of job.
__________________
Steve & Nancy
2005 Itasca Sunrise 33', W20 Chassis, Ultrapower, Henderson Trac Bar
2012 Chevy Captiva Sport AWD, ReadyBrute Elite Tow Bar, Blue Ox Base Plate, Protect-A-Tow
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11-10-2007, 04:07 PM
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#12
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Jarrell, TX 76537
Posts: 4,501
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You should be able to get a small tube of each for less than $10 at any good parts store... Autozone, Advanced Auto, O'Reillys etc
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Dale
AKA - Oemy
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