Spark Plugs on 8.1L

[B K]

Have gone through the posts and still a little unsure. I am installing Taylor wires. I do NOT have the Ultrapower Upgrade. Do I want to use 41-983's or 41-932's or 41-993? What gap do I use.

Thanks

[B K]

Have gone through the posts and still a little unsure. I am installing Taylor wires. I do NOT have the Ultrapower Upgrade. Do I want to use 41-983's or 41-932's or 41-993? What gap do I use.

Thanks

[JC2]

41-932's if you can still find them or 41-993's if not. Gap will be set at .045.
OemTech member on this forum is the man to go to if you need further verification.
http://oemys-performance.com/

[JonBrazel]

We have a ton of 41-932's in stock if you can't find them anywhere else, I'll even pre-gap them for you!!

[Blue Ribbon]

WARNING

check your Taylor wires BEFORE installation. I just put a set on, and one the plug terminal clip/plug was about 3/4" too deep in the rubber boot. Since the cable is glued (with silicone) to the boot, I could not adjust it. Taylor gladly replaced it.

It is not an easy job, as everyone leads you to believe. I tried from both the top and the bottom, though from the bottom was more of a problem of not being able to be on my knees too long, as they both need replacing.

It is a bear to get the Delco plug wires off. One I fought with and fought with, and finely gave up and took it to my local Workhorse shop.

If you are going at it from the top, if you remove some of the ignition modules (especially on the dip-stick side) it is a little kinder on your hands.

Use anti-size on the plug threads.

The grease that comes with the Taylor cables is for the rubber boot, to make it slip on better and give a water tight seal, though I honestly believe it is going to burn off the first time the engine gets up to temp.

I've rebuilt a lot of engines, 4C, V-6 and V-8 and 1/2 dozen manual 4 speed gear boxes, and doing these plugs was by FAR the most problematic job. I screw around for 6+ hours, and only got 7 plugs and cables changed.

Said and done, when I took it to my local Workhorse shop, I asked him to check the plug-cable connection on each wire, as I did not "hear" each of them snap on. Said and done, he reminded me: "You can pay me now or pay me later." It cost me $160 to have the trouble wire taken off, replace one plug, and have the 7 other cables checked. That is EXACTLY what he would have charged if he would have done it from the start, and I would not have 9 or 10 bad scratches on my arm, plus a couple very sore muscles.

But, YES, I've read that some people have NO problem at all, so maybe I was just real unlucky on the #4 cable. Also our Moho has a upright support which makes it very hard to get to #5 & #6 plugs.

Just my 2 cents worth.

[oemtech]

$160 for 1 plug/wire... I guess I don't charge enough. Even at 66 years old I can change a set of plugs & wires in about 20 minutes generally not lose any wires.

A couple of tips for changing plugs and wires.
<UL TYPE=SQUARE>
[1] Turn the wheels all the way to one side and the crawl under the rig. This make a bit difficult to reach the back plugs. But, if squeeze in from the back side the rear plugs are easy and front ones are a little harder to reach.
[2] Use a 1/2" ratchet and a short extension for better leverage.
[3] Remove the coil wire first.
[4] Twist the plug boot at least 180 degrees each direction.
[5] Pull on the plug boot not the wire.
[6] I just grease the plug boot and not the coil boot. Why? Do to the way the coil packs are located the Taylor wires "just" fit. You need to align them at slight angle to the coil pack.
[7] Don't forget the plug boot shield. Some say take it off and others say leave it on. Your choice.[/list]

[DriVer]

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by Blue Ribbon </div></BLOCKQUOTE>Bill,

I'm almost 60 years old - probably a spring chicken in some folks eyes however I can change a set of plugs and wires is just about 90 minutes. It sometimes takes me a half hour to gap the plugs because I'm so anal - I want to make sure that the gap is the same as the other plugs so the whole job takes me 2 Hours including breaks to apply band aids. Ask Oemy!

At that rate I'd get fired if I were working against the clock. Getting the old wires off is largely a major twist and tug of war.

I think that your warning will not fall on deaf ears. Perhaps these types of tasks are better suited to people that routinely do this type of work.

[Carvin Marvin]

I wear some of the Harbor Freight latex gloves. It reduces the injuries considerably.

[DriVer]

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by Carvin Marvin:
I wear some of the Harbor Freight latex gloves. It reduces the injuries considerably. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>I have found that "Mechanix" gloves work very well. They are thin, tactile and offer an excellent amount of protection for your hands. Now if I could only remember to put them "ON" I might do better with the band aid thing.

[B K]

Thanks for all the input. Since I don't have the Ultrapower upgrade I guess it won't make much difference which plug I use. On the 38J it was very easy to get at the plugs and wires from the top. Needed 2 hands to get the wires off but no problem. The plugs came out real easy also. They didn't look too bad except for the right rear which is the wire that burned out twice. New wires and plugs with silicone and anti-sieze and I'll be good to go.

Thanks everyone.

[tropical36]

Mercy...I think I'm still running on the original's with no problems. My old Pace had a good after market set and was still burning up no. 8 on a regular basis.
Just wondering if this is one of those cases of ...if it aint' broke, don't fix it.

[Joe Gilbert]

Blue Ribbon: Your correct that it can be differcult to pull the spark plug boot off a plug however what works well for me is to use a tool to push the boot off from its rear. A large, long screwdriver does the job nicely. You will not need to beat on the boot; a moderate push as your are pulling on the boot normally works.

[oemtech]

Tropical36,

Wires & plugs are necessary unless you want MAXIMUM performance from your engine. OEM wires are about 1000 ohms per foot, Taylor 409's are 300 ohms and Taylor TV 50's are only 50 ohms per foot. OEM's are 7 mm wires and Tyalor's are 10.4 mm. The Taylor Extremes add a 2 layer 8" boot cover for up to 1200 degree heat barrier.

AC Delco 41-993's gaped at .045 give better spark when used wih the Taylor wires.

Joe,

I have changed at least 10 sets of wires and plugs. I have never had use anything but may hands to remove the plug wires. I think I have only lost 2 maybe 3 wires during removal.

[tropical36]

Yeah....sooner or later you guys are gonna make me do this, with all this high tech. talk and all....no matter how good it's running now.
So far, I've been busy enough trying to keep up with all the stuff that needs immediate attention...not that it's a bad coach...in fact, and so far, it's been a pretty good one.