Community Forums

Greeneyes · 07-17-2018, 07:50 AM

Hi, I have mysterious problem that I can’t find the solution and need help. My 2004 Adventurer 35U had a starting .problem. Even though I have a 50 amp drop that I installed a year ago to keep the coach plugged in.
When Irma hit we got the coach ready and took off to avoid it. On the road I started having starting problems, But was able to make it back home. I checked the starting battery and it was toast. So I purchased two new house batteries and the engine battery. Now that the hurricane season is upon us I decided to get the coach ready just in case. Tried to start the coach but all that happened was could hear the solenoid click and all thje dash lights would dim. So I decided it must be a faulty starter. Put some blocks under the front leveling jacks the get room to work and jacked up the front. Got starter out and took it to Autozone to check it out and it failed all the tests. But they had the starter in stock for my 8.1 engine. Purchased and installed it. Now when I try to start I get nothing, no dash lights, no click, Nothing! Does anyone have any ideas.

edgray · 07-17-2018, 09:31 AM

Perhaps I'm missing something in your post, but it seems to me you are assuming that just because you bought a new chassis battery a while back, IT can't be the source of your current non-start problem. Also, IMO, you shouldn't assume that just because you keep the coach plugged in the chassis battery will stay charged. MANY coaches don't do that, and even IF yours does, it is possible the converter is overcharging the chassis battery and that can ruin a new battery if done over a long period of time. I'm suggesting you have the "new" chassis battery load tested before looking for another culprit.

Greeneyes · 07-17-2018, 09:57 AM

in my post i did not mention the house batteries having any problem, all of the interior appliances including slides. so i not talking about house batteries just the engine battery and starter
.

tomwalt · 07-17-2018, 10:08 AM

The Chassis battery is what you are calling an engine battery.
Ed said to check your chassis/engine battery because many coaches do not charge the chassis/engine battery when plugged in - my does not.
An easy check with a voltmeter - when plugged in the house batteries and chassis batteries will be between 14 and 13.2V if they are being charged. If 12.5 to 11.5V they are not being charged.

Rough Battery health status with no load: 12.5V fully charged, 12V is 1/2 charge, 11.5V is dead. Below 11.5V and a cell is bad within the battery.

Most coached have an aux start switch that will cross connect the house and chassis batteries - after verifying the battery voltages as I mentioned above, using this is an easy way to eliminate the battery as the culpert.

If the battery is good, you might start here:
http://www.irv2.com/forums/f22/stran...ch-284988.html

twinboat · 07-17-2018, 10:17 AM

Look at the battery cable on the starter.

There may be a 10 gauge or so wire that got left off. That would be your power wire to the dash and fuses.

edgray · 07-17-2018, 11:33 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Greeneyes

in my post i did not mention the house batteries having any problem, all of the interior appliances including slides. so i not talking about house batteries just the engine battery and starter
.

Everything I wrote pertains to your chassis (engine) battery.

powderman · 07-17-2018, 11:41 AM

As stated above, many units do not charge the chassis battery when hooked to shore power. The answer is to hook up a trickle charger to the chassis battery through the converter.

Arch Hoagland · 07-17-2018, 11:35 PM

https://www.amazon.com/WirthCo-20128.../dp/B000CQFWLY

Install a cutoff switch like this on your engine battery.

My coach does not charge the engine battery when plugged into shore power and the engine battery will run down after about two weeks of non use.