Steering Control - Out of Control

[FloraBama]

<<Sorry but this is a long story>>

I had the usual W22 streeing issues with free-play and continuousy making correcting but it was manageable. Then I changed tires a few months ago (Michelin XRV to Toyo) and I started having much more difficuly in windy conditions.
Two weeks ago I had a Safe-T-Plus (Link to posting) installed and I haven't been able to get it adjusted completely after several attempts; it is very close but still a little pull to the left. Well, my first trip out the the STP was a new experience, mostly bad. The slighest wind caused a problem and the constant pull to the left took it's physical toll on my body after only 100 miles!
Before you ask, yes I'm going to have the rig weighted later this week and ensure the tire pressue is accurate. I would love to hear you comments on the above but my real "burning" question is this: What is the going price for the Roadmaster rear anti-sway bar? My RV shop quoted my just over $400 then when ordered the Factory told them it has gone up to over $900! Yikes.

My plan for now is get the Davis Tru-trac for the front and keep shopping for a rear solution.

I really need some help here and in my area of NW Florida, RV shops especially dealing with suspension issues just isn't available. I'm heading to South Dakota in May so I need to get this fixed soon. Thanks folks.

[JonBrazel]

What year is the chassis?

Increase caster on the alignment to about 5 degrees and we have our UltraTrac front track bars on sale...that would be a good place to start.

[wa7hra]

Flori Bama, Do you have the same steering problem when you are not towing the GMC?

Bob, wa7hra

[FloraBama]

Quote:

Originally Posted by wa7hra Flori Bama, Do you have the same steering problem when you are not towing the GMC? Bob, wa7hra

I really don't know because I am always towing. Are you maybe refering to something specific about the GME or just pulling tow?

[wa8yxm]

I added the Davis Tru-Track on the front and a Blue Ox True-center as well (does the same job as your Safety plus)

For the rear, after much searching, when I can next afford,, I'll go with the Ultra Power track bar.. but frankly.. I'm not sure it's needed.

Fact: In 2006, on Jan 2, I headed toward Las Vegas (Also known as lost wages) and when I got there the towed, a 1992 Chevy lumina APV, was a pleasure to drive.

When I got back to Michigan I added the items mentioned above.

Thanksgiving Tuesday, after the concert, and the class, I headed again to Las Vegas (My daughter lived there at the time) and .

Well, this time I drove, myself, all the way (First trip I had a co driver) and let me tell you that very same 1992 Lumina APV.. Was a bear to drive, I mean it was squirly as blazes.. Took me a good 2 miles to get used to it again..

Same motor home.. Same car,, Same driver, Just the Tru-Trac and the True Center making the motor home much nicer to drive.

[Full-Timers]

Instead of throwing a bunch of money at it, find the root cause. Weight distribution, total weight, alignment, and tire pressure… I’m with Jon, caster will help.

[FloraBama]

Quote:

Originally Posted by JonBrazel What year is the chassis? Increase caster on the alignment to about 5 degrees and we have our UltraTrac front track bars on sale...that would be a good place to start.

Late 2004 chassis

[SAMCUDNEY]

I have similar concerns and issues. I've got the tire pressures right according to Toyo's weight/pressure chart, alignment dead on according to mfg's specs, but it ('03 W22) tends to wander and overcorrect; it's as though response to steering inputs are delayed a second or so. The dealer says they all do it and suggests a steering damper, but that is a bandaid and doesn't go to the root cause. I'm hoping for either a recommendation from someone in my area (Albuquerque) with similar experience, who can send me someplace local for a fix; or ? The track bar does on the face of it sound like a good start, but I'd be happier if I could hook up with a local repair facility capable of doing a real diagnosis and suggesting a fix, rather than relying on my description and a long-distance recommendation.

[Davel]

I had similar issues with my WH and installed a rear track bar and a Tru-Center Steering Control. They made a tremendous improvement with passing semi's and handling in general. I've also had the coach weighed on all four corners and adjusted the tire pressure accordingly. But I still was having to constantly do little corrections to keep the coach on line. Not a lot of movement, but it was constant. I had the castor increased to 5.5 degrees on the left and 6 degrees on the right as prescribed by Josams Alignment in Orlando, FL. The difference from side to side was to account for the crown in most roads. I couldn't be happier with the results. Now it "wants" to go straight. There are still very minor adjustments but not nearly as much as before. It was money well spent. I still feel just the slightest push in the front if a trucki passes me at 15-20 mph more than I'm going. It's barely noticable, but I have the parts to make a front track bar.....when I get time.

Good Luck,
Dave

[wa7hra]

Quote:

Originally Posted by FloraBama I really don't know because I am always towing. Are you maybe refering to something specific about the GME or just pulling tow?

This was just a thought on my part. Your Toad may be trying to steer itself, and by doing so, the tail is wagging the dog.

I have never had a steering problem with my 2003 Dolphin 5342 and I have not added a single item to the suspension. It is just as it was delivered except for changing the shocks from the original equipment to Monroe, which was done by WH.

Bob, wa7hra

[Full-Timers]

For some reason gas motorhome manufacturers like to build long motorhomes on short chassis. This makes it very easy to overload the rear, which lightens the front and seriously affects the handling.

This found on another website;

The wheelbase-to-length ratio is the ratio of the length of the wheelbase (measured from the center of the front axle to the center of the rear axle) to the length of the motor home, or the length of the wheelbase divided by the length of the motorhome in inches. We consider 54 percent as a minimum wheelbase-to-length ratio for safe highway travel. The categories for wheelbase-to-length ratio are as follows:
· Excellent - 58% and above. Any wheelbase in this category should maintain a straight and steady course under most adverse driving conditions.
· Good - 54%-57%.
· Fatiguing - 51%-53% is considered fatiguing to drive because it will most probably not maintain a straight and steady course under normal highway driving conditions with side winds or heavy truck traffic.
· Dangerous - 50% or below is considered dangerous at any speed on any road.

[FloraBama]

<< Update on Changes Implemented >>
Took the advice of several of you had it in the alignment shop this morning. Betwwen doing the alignment, test driving and adjusting the Safe-T-Plus they spent 4.5 hours on the job.

Drives much better and I can even take my hands off the steering wheel for short periods..never could before.

Stopped by the CAT Scales and took a weight; could not do the four corner so I have the front and rear axel weights. Here is the surprise: I have been running 90 lbs cold but with these weights the Toyo Tire load inflation table indicated it should be 80 lbs.!!

Can this be correct?

Front: 7120 lbs (need to add two passengers)
Rear: 13680

Will dropping the pressure to 80 lbs help with the steering and wind movement?

[JohnRR]

Quote:

Originally Posted by FloraBama Will dropping the pressure to 80 lbs help with the steering and wind movement?

Yes it could if you were substantial overinflated. What did you have the steers adjusted to before?

[FloraBama]

Quote:

Originally Posted by JohnRR Yes it could if you were substantial overinflated. What did you have the steers adjusted to before?

Steers and Rear have been at 90 lbs.