Steering question - New rig

[RV 4 2]

Just got the new Class A over the weekend. First time driving a Class A on the freeway. I took it from the dealer to my house. I know I am used to a sports car and a ford truck pulling a 5er but is the steering of the W24 (or any 36' class A for that matter) normally feeling a little vague. I was constantly correcting the steering to prevent it from wandering in my lane. I know, I should expect some wandering but for 18 miles, it seemed like I was correcting a lot. My wife said that I initially was wandering a lot in the lane but seemed like I was doing a lot better a few miles down the road.
Since I have never driven a Class A any more than a short test drive, am I expecting too much from driving a 36 foot box down the road.
I know all the tanks are full (fersh 100%, black and grey at 90% from PDI/delivery testing and I have not weighed the rig, checked tire pressures yet. I have not had a chance to empty the black/grey tanks or get it to w weigh station as we are still paicking it up.
Any helpful hints, suggestions, experiences would be helpful.

[RV 4 2]

Just got the new Class A over the weekend. First time driving a Class A on the freeway. I took it from the dealer to my house. I know I am used to a sports car and a ford truck pulling a 5er but is the steering of the W24 (or any 36' class A for that matter) normally feeling a little vague. I was constantly correcting the steering to prevent it from wandering in my lane. I know, I should expect some wandering but for 18 miles, it seemed like I was correcting a lot. My wife said that I initially was wandering a lot in the lane but seemed like I was doing a lot better a few miles down the road.
Since I have never driven a Class A any more than a short test drive, am I expecting too much from driving a 36 foot box down the road.
I know all the tanks are full (fersh 100%, black and grey at 90% from PDI/delivery testing and I have not weighed the rig, checked tire pressures yet. I have not had a chance to empty the black/grey tanks or get it to w weigh station as we are still paicking it up.
Any helpful hints, suggestions, experiences would be helpful.

[Safeman]

Same thing with my Tiffen ( W20 ). Hooked up with Brazel's ( see sponsers ) for trac-bars. Problem solved.

[Redlands Truck and RV]

Mike and Linda,

Your sales staff didn't tell you this when you bought it, but you need to load your coach like you're getting ready for a trip and then get it aligned, remeber any good alignment includes thrust angle inspection and should come with a printout.

Also what are you running for tire pressure? Since it's loaded now is a great time to have it weighed. Get the weights and then refer to the tire manf chart for pressure at that weight.

We can help you with both these.

Thanks,

[TZ]

My experience has been with travel trailers and class C motorhomes. I had the same feeling you did when I purchased my 31 ft Class A which is on a Ford chassis. When I first started driving this rig it seemed like I was constantly making minor adjustment to keep the vehicle in the lane. I wasn't sure that the handling was "the nature of the beast" or there was something wrong with the chassis.

I considered SteerSafe by Henderson to correct the perceived problem but in viewing posts on various forums it seemed that the verdict was 50/50 some liked it others seemed to think there wasn't that much improvement and not worth the investment. In the end I made no changes.

We made a long trip out west last year and I bacame more and more used to the handling. After many miles on the road I just got used to driving this size and type of rig and no longer even notice a handling issue.

You just want to put some more time behind the wheel.

TZ

["007"]

Welcome TZ and Safeman to irv2 forums.
Everyone is correct it takes getting use to and loading and weight and alignment are the answer plus tire pressure.
If after driving for a while addons maybe needed for your comfort.

[DriVer]

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by TZ:
I considered SteerSafe by Henderson to correct the perceived problem but in viewing posts on various forums it seemed that the verdict was 50/50 some liked it others seemed to think there wasn't that much improvement and not worth the investment. In the end I made no changes .... You just want to put some more time behind the wheel. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>TZ, Thank you for joining us here on iRV2.com. I certainly do appreciate your willingness to jump right in the fracas and take on a question based on your 1st hand experience. This is one of the features that makes iRV2.com the best RV Internet resource available.

I do want very much to agree with you that you do need to get some time behind the wheel before making any permanent changes. It is most often better to evaluate alignment and air pressures before making any decisions about after market products.

Regarding RV 4 2, Once a need exists and a condition presents an issue that is repetitively identifiable you certainly can not go wrong by seeking out professional service centers who are in the business of making the RV ownership experience better. Currently a preeminent WCC Service Center, Redlands Truck and RV Performance Center is certainly an excellent resource in your area that you should consider if only to baseline your motorhome. You can call Keith at any time for a jaw session.

TZ, About after market track bars, steering dampers and shock absorbers - the commentary from the owners here who have tested these devices is indisputable. Numerous owners here will attest in the affirmative that these products do work and they are most pleased to have them.

Please make a point of coming back and visiting us often.

[DriVer]

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by Safeman:
Same thing with my Tiffen ( W20 ). Hooked up with Brazel's ( see sponsors ) for trac-bars. Problem solved. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>safeman, Welcome to the Workhorse Forum on iRV2.com. I hope that you will spend a lot of time with us and we are looking forward to sharing in your RV experience.

We know you have a choice and thanks for joining us.

[RV 4 2]

Keith and all, thanks for the advice.
I do plan on checking everything first before I spend any more $$. Keith, No, the sales staff did not tell me about loading the rig before getting an alignment. No suprise there but thank goodnes to this forum and the wonderful people here, I knew that was something I would need to do soon anyway.
Since we just got the rig Saturday (YAY!!), we have not gotten a chance to completely load it. Once we get it travel ready, then I will see what I can do. I will check tire pressures just to see if they are at least equal (right to left) and I will go onto the Michelin site and print out the inflation chart. There is a public scale right across the street from where I work and after I recover from surgery, I will take a drive out there to get the rig weighed.
I have only had about 20 miles behind the wheel so far so I have extremely limited time behind a Class A. So, I will be wanting to take a drive for more experience anyway. Or first planned trip is late August and only about 20 miles away. Great for a shakedown trip and it will probably be the first run at seeing how the rig feels then.
DriVer, thanks for the recommendation on Redlands Truck and RV Center, I read a lot on this forum and they will be the ones I will give a call to when I get to a point of knowing where I stand and what I need to do first. As for after market parts, I will wait until I feel I need them before actually spending the money. I need to drive this beastie first...

[Joe Gilbert]

My National-Dolphin came with a print-out of the alignment performed at the National factory. I wouldn't be too quick to have your coach realigned. Check the tire pressure and put some miles on the coach first. The fact is, other than toe-in & out there isn't much to change.

[DriVer]

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by Joe Gilbert:
My National-Dolphin came with a print-out of the alignment performed at the National factory. I wouldn't be too quick to have your coach realigned. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>Joe, That's true however the coach is deliverd at NET or "curb weight" weight. When you load a coach to close to its GVW things change and that's worth investigating as an initial conservative approach while attempting to improve directional control.

[Jeff H]

Joe Gilbert and everyone else are right on with their answers. We felt kind of funny too going from a P32 to a W22. Weighing, adjusting etc. did the trick. Only out the cost of the scale charge and have a wonderful rig now.

[DriVer]

Jeff, I set your sig up so we know what type of rig you have.

Assuring redistribution of weight and checking air pressures are essential tasks that we need to apply as we work through improving directional control. Ruling out the front end alignment as a factor in that process is essential if the condition does not improve. The expense for the alignment is inconsequential when compared to a set of new front tires should the front end be out of alignment. Knowing what your current running profile is via a laser proofed, computer printout "after" the coach is loaded and ready for the road is a financially prudent approach toward managing a large vehicle.

Not only can the toe be set but the thrust angle and caster angles also need to be checked and evaluated. We have seen where a change in the caster angle on certain W24s has improved directional control.

Working the issue to the next level, after market products begin to return benefit quickly by allaying concern and improving total ownership satisfaction if a condition exists that can not be assuaged by fundamental checks and balances.

[RV 4 2]

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by DriVer:
Assuring redistribution of weight and checking air pressures are essential tasks that we need to apply as we work through improving directional control. Ruling out the front end alignment as a factor in that process is essential if the condition does not improve. The expense for the alignment is inconsequential when compared to a set of new front tires should the front end be out of alignment. Knowing what your current running profile is via a laser proofed, computer printout "after" the coach is loaded and ready for the road is a financially prudent approach toward managing a large vehicle.

Working the issue to the next level, after market products begin to return benefit quickly by allaying concern and improving total ownership satisfaction if a condition exists that can not be assuaged by fundamental checks and balances. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

Exactly why I plan to do things I can easily check/correct before going to the next step. Of course, getting more seat time behind the wheel will not hurt either.

Thank you all for your help. I really appreciate it for this newbie.