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05-25-2009, 07:07 PM
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#15
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2002
Posts: 576
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I would really like to stop by and say hi. The house is for sale, and I hope for a clean get away! We'll keep in touch.
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Greg & Lynn (Full-Timing)
2011 Phaeton 42 QBH / Spartan Chassis
2003 Jeep GC Overland in Tow
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05-27-2009, 04:49 PM
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#16
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Junior Member
Join Date: May 2009
Posts: 12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by greenskeeper
has any one swapped over to synthetic oil in their new vortex 8.1 mine has 10,000 mikes on it and I was wondering if I would gain anything,by spending the extra money? performance wise or millage? thanks people...
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I've used synthetic oils for over 20 years and have never had a problem. I put 10W30 Mobil 1 in my 8.1 because living in the south you really don't need a 5W30. I get 8mpg in my 38ft. Mountain Aire which I don't think is too bad since I haven't done anything else to it to improve milege. I change my oil every spring. I average about 4000 miles a year. My Onan also gets the same treatment. Synthetics are so much better for intense heat without breaking down. Hope this helps.
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Tim and Roben 2001 Newmar Mountain Aire 3758 Workhorse 8.1
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05-27-2009, 09:23 PM
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#17
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Moderator Emeritus
Winnebago Owners Club Workhorse Chassis Owner Coastal Campers Carolina Campers
Join Date: Jan 2000
Location: Conway, SC
Posts: 23,641
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oldnumber3
I put 10W30 Mobil 1 in my 8.1 because living in the south you really don't need a 5W30.
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oldnumber3, I resemble that remark!
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03 Adventurer 38G, Workhorse W22
F&R Track Bars, Safety+ , Ultrapower, Taylor Extremes, SGII
TST 507, Blue Ox, SMI, Koni FSD, CrossFire
RV/MH Hall of Fame - Lifetime Member
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05-31-2009, 07:33 AM
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#18
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Senior Member
Workhorse Chassis Owner
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Coaldale, AB
Posts: 358
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I changed to Mobil 1 5W30 at first oil change, 2200 miles. I now have 34375 miles on the 8.1 moter.
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05 Itasca Sunova 29R
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05-31-2009, 09:15 AM
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#19
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Moderator Emeritus
Winnebago Owners Club Workhorse Chassis Owner Coastal Campers Carolina Campers
Join Date: Jan 2000
Location: Conway, SC
Posts: 23,641
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TAN
I changed to Mobil 1 5W30 at first oil change, 2200 miles. I now have 34375 miles on the 8.1 motor.
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I waited until I had 13,000 miles showing and now I have over 77,000.
There's no rush to get on board with synthetic oil right out of the box since Workhorse recommends that you allow the engine to get a few miles on it before introducing synthetic oil. That's what I did - your experiences may vary!
__________________
03 Adventurer 38G, Workhorse W22
F&R Track Bars, Safety+ , Ultrapower, Taylor Extremes, SGII
TST 507, Blue Ox, SMI, Koni FSD, CrossFire
RV/MH Hall of Fame - Lifetime Member
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05-31-2009, 03:06 PM
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#20
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Senior Member
Workhorse Chassis Owner
Join Date: Dec 2001
Posts: 985
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I talked to glen at oem eng and I thought he had a good idea. He said he uses syn mobil 1 10w-30 in everything he owns, and has been doing this for years, cars,mh, lawnmower, tractors, everything he changes oil in. He only has to remember one oil no matter what he is changing and he can buy in bulk. So thats what I did and boy is it easier for me cause all I buy now is mobil 10w-30.
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2004 adventurer/22.5 workhorse....
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06-10-2009, 02:38 PM
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#21
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Member
Workhorse Chassis Owner
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Central Ohio
Posts: 53
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Mobil 1
Hi,
I change at around 4000 miles. Have been using a blend 5W-30. I am changing to Mobil 1. Went to Walmart today and they have Mobil 1 (5W-30 and 10W-30 ) and Mobil 1 Advanced Fuel Economy 0W-30 5qt. container for $22.00. The 0W-30 has a $10 rebate per 5 qts. (limit two) I am going to use this oil when I change mine. Thats $2.40 per qt after rebate. You have to get rebate forms online.
Mobil states that this oil exceeds 5W-30 and 10W-30 so it should be ok to use. Anyone think that I should not use the 0W-30. I have 43,000 miles on my 8.1.
Thank
Ron
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06-10-2009, 08:10 PM
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#22
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Senior Member
Appalachian Campers Coastal Campers
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Conway, SC
Posts: 828
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I use synthetic oil also and stick with the 5/30. Why! Because that is what is written on the fill cap.
I do not operate in cold weather, and change at 6000 miles.
The one quart filter is a must and 7 quarts are required.
I also have a designated lubrication expert in DriVer, fun to watch him slither around under the coach.
__________________
2002 Winnebago Ultimate Advantage 40J, Roadmaster InvisiBrake Model 8700
2012 Chevy Captiva
NEVER FORGET
"Everyone Goes Home"
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06-11-2009, 09:46 AM
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#23
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2002
Posts: 576
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All sounds great. What are you guys running in your genset? I am on the fence about Mobil 1 10W40 or 10W30. I have been running Shell Rotella Synthetic 5W-40 but want to bump up the lower end viscosity some.
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Greg & Lynn (Full-Timing)
2011 Phaeton 42 QBH / Spartan Chassis
2003 Jeep GC Overland in Tow
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06-11-2009, 10:30 AM
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#24
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Senior Member
Fleetwood Owners Club
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Vancouver, USA (WA, that is) the first one!
Posts: 302
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FDchief
All sounds great. What are you guys running in your genset? I am on the fence about Mobil 1 10W40 or 10W30. I have been running Shell Rotella Synthetic 5W-40 but want to bump up the lower end viscosity some.
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Onan tells me 15-40 blend, I believe that is what their branded oil is. I didn't specify last time my genset was changed, and the tech (not at Onan) put in 5-30. Can't tell any difference, but next time around, not too far away, I'm going with Mobil 1 15-40. I run Mobil 1 in everything, 10-30 in my coach and 5-30 in both cars, because those are the weights called for by the manufacturers.
I use syn because I know personally of engines torn down (for modification, not wear necessity) and inspected for wear - which was virtually nonexistant. Plus, as I've said before, what's good enough for USAF jets, new Corvettes and NASCAR is probably good enough for me.
PS - I also use Mobil 1 tranny fluid in my old C6, because of the way it resists heat buildup, especially on those long, hard pulls with a toad. Heat is what kills automatic transmissions.
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Ken & Carolee, 1994 36' Pace Arrow/Ford 7.5L, Mobil 1 full syn & Banks Pack. Towing a 1999 Saturn SL2 with Roadmaster Sterling All-Terrain & Brake Buddy.
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06-11-2009, 01:24 PM
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#25
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Senior Member
Appalachian Campers Coastal Campers
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Conway, SC
Posts: 828
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Presently running synthetic 10/30 in the Onan, Castrol with a NAPA filter.
Runs well and very little oil consumption. Has little over 150 hours and will be changed beginning of July when I return from the Rally.
Precharge the filter, makes adding the oil to the generator easier, first quart goes in easy, 2nd is slow
__________________
2002 Winnebago Ultimate Advantage 40J, Roadmaster InvisiBrake Model 8700
2012 Chevy Captiva
NEVER FORGET
"Everyone Goes Home"
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06-11-2009, 01:59 PM
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#26
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Senior Member
Monaco Owners Club Workhorse Chassis Owner
Join Date: Oct 2008
Posts: 124
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oemtech
Change it when you want.... Remember there are only 2 (that I know of) TRUE full synthetic oils... Mobil 1 and Amzoil. The rest are grp III base oils with synthetic additives..
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Things have changed a bit in that respect. Not all mobile 1 are made of polyalphaolefin (PAO) as base stock anymore. Some are now group III hydrocracked mineral oils.
Other REAL SYNTHETICS (made of PAO as base stock) are Esso XD3 0w30 and 0w40 the funny thing about this very good oil is that in can be purchased in some Farm supply stores as in house brand heavy duty oil. This oil meets API requirements for gas and diesel engines.
An other PAO synthetic is Castrol Syntec 0w30 if the bottle got MADE IN GERMANY printed on it. If the Castrol is made in the USA it is a group III oil. I was told that the German Castrol oil in greenish in color but I cannot confirm that since I have not used it yet. On the store shelf the German and the US made oils are mixed up and you have to look at every bottle to find the German oil.
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Carsten
Edmonton Alberta Canada
2002 HR Vacationer, W22, 8.1L GM
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06-11-2009, 02:28 PM
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#27
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Senior Member
Texas Boomers Club
Join Date: Jul 2000
Location: Cypress, Texas USA
Posts: 8,854
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I should know better than to get into an oil thread, but another PAO-based Group IV synthetic is Royal Purple.
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06-12-2009, 02:18 AM
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#28
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Senior Member
Winnebago Owners Club Workhorse Chassis Owner
Join Date: Sep 2007
Posts: 2,976
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RustyJC
I should know better than to get into an oil thread, but another PAO-based Group IV synthetic is Royal Purple.
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most AMSOIL is group 4 synthetic. AMSOIL does market para-synthetics, but they are clearly marked as such.
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01 WINNEBAGO 35U W20.8.1L 5sp allison SW Wa,. Good Sam, SKP. RVM 198 AMSOIL fluids. BANKS ecm program. SCAN GAUGE II w/ Ally temp. 2 LIFELINE GPL-6CT AGM Batts on their sides. Michelins, TST tptts. K&N panel air filter. AERO mufflers. TAYLOR plug wires. ULTRA POWER track bar. KONI fsd shocks, toad '21MB GLA FWD on dolly
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