System shut down-Skid to a stop

[GLWilliams58]

I am hoping you can give me some pointers before I try to drive this in for service.

I pulled my rig out for the first time in months after a rainy season here in Florida and the motor just shut down while rolling through the neighborhood. After starting it and moving it around my yard and letting it idle for about 10 minutes I pulled out of my street. I was simply rolling along, slowing for a the first stop sign less than a half a mike from my house. When I slowed to about 5 miles an hour the engine shut down taking the dash lights, radio and A/C fan. There were no dash lights like a check engine light on or anything like that. The brakes even locked up and skid to a stop. The house A/C continued to run fine as the generator continued running.

I turned off the key after about a 2 minutes turned it back on with no problem. It started up and I turned it around and drove home. I did not want to take it any further until I understood what happened. It concerned me most because the rear wheels skid to stop. I wondered what this would have been like had I been going any faster.

When I parked it, a couple of months prior, it was fine.

Any suggestions about what could have gone wrong? Or where I should start?

Thanks,

[sdennislee]

Check you fuel for water or other forms of contamination

[max49]

My first suspicion would be the ignition switch. If you have autopark, it immediately engages the spring brake when it loses 12 volts or the key goes off. Just another dangerous engineering marvel of the AAPB. The P-32 is known to have ignition overload problems. OEM website has instructions on how to fix it
Let us know how it goes and good luck.
If your Engine died because of fuel , the ignition would stay on and the brake would not have applied.
Another tip is, don't drive the P-32 with a big set of keys hanging from the ignition switch. Too easy to bump with your knee and the swinging weight doesn't help the ign switch.

[wa8yxm]

I have been known to say "You know what the problem is with a Class A motor home?" and when the person I'm talking to says "No, What?" I hold up my key ring and say "They all fit"

Your problem was electrical,, though I do not know why the brakes locked, that should not be possible due to an electrical problem less the auto-park is what locked.

And a bad ignition switch, worn out by the weight of all those keys on the ring, is suspect #1

[Billieg]

Quote:

Originally Posted by wa8yxm Your problem was electrical,, though I do not know why the brakes locked, that should not be possible due to an electrical problem less the auto-park is what locked. And a bad ignition switch, worn out by the weight of all those keys on the ring, is suspect #1

X2
I'd first clean the starting battery terminals and check the grounds. You lost all power so that's where I'd start. Good luck from another soaked Fl. person.

[DriVer]

Quote:

Originally Posted by GLWilliams58 Any suggestions about what could have gone wrong? Or where I should start?

The past history on this issue in many cases has been a bad or defective ignition switch.

[GLWilliams58]

Very helpful. Thanks.

I will explore the ignition switch repair information and see what I can learn. I guess I knew this day was coming and am fortunate that it happened nearly in my own yard. I have read the stories of others that weren't.

I will let you know what I find out.

GW

["007"]

You have allot of wires that go to the ignition switch over a metal bend at top of your steering wheel.
If you like to adjust your ride height of steering wheel, every time you do it the wiring harness rubs over this metal bend.
A wire in harness will move in harness, could be a battery lead or ground lead and cause a open or short to ignition switch.
My problem was a battery short to ground of steering column and a blown 40 amp fuse, after I had a column of white smoke rise from center of steering wheel.
After a new harness replacement I placed a wiring plastic wrap around the wires going over the bend.
That was back in 04.