Taylor 409 Wires not worth it

[max49]

I had one burnt wire during the 3 year warranty, then 1 or 2 more in the next couple of years. So I bought the high dollar 409 wires a few trips ago, put in an air induction system with a 4" fan, drilled holes for ventilation, and now already I have the dreaded thump, thump, thump of a dead cylinder, very noticable when backing into the driveway. I did'nt get 3000 miles out of the big fat macho looking wires, but they did "look trick'. I guess I'll just have to buy a box of cheapos and change #5 while I'm gassing up.
So much fun unique stuff to do with this chassis.

[oemtech]

Max,

As I have said many times... wires will not fix the problem.

[Sammie]

Two words for a sure cure. "Radiator Spray"

Sammie

[DriVer]

Quote:

Originally Posted by max49 I guess I'll just have to buy a box of cheapos and change #5 while I'm gassing up..

Max, I have a few Taylor 10.4 mm Blue Spiro Extreme spares Part Number: 99615 I can send you one FREE for the cost of shipping.

[dezertcamper]

Wow Sorry to hear you are still having issues after you added wires, air ducts with fans. I have looked at a picture of the front grill area on your Damon and I would have thought you would have had plenty of grill opening. I guess the only thing I could think you might want to check is to make sure is that the rubber mat around the radiator is in good shape and not letting air get around the radiator. Also is you air duct aiming right on the #5 cylinder? I was told for best performance to keep the duct no more then 2-3 inches away from the wire to assure the air is being forced across the wire and manifold.

[max49]

I'll take you up on that Driver, Can I still use the stock heat guard with that wire?
Maybe you can send me an address to send the shipping $ to in a PM and I'll send you a check..
I broke my femur head trying to run with the young kids on the dirt bike so I probably won't be changing the wire for awhile. My 7.1 ltr engine did get us back across the Rockies from Moab though.
I think ya'lls MHs are spoiled back there in the flatlands. These western mtns just bring these gas MHs to their knees out here and I would assume this contributes to the burnt wire problem. I just thought between the 409 wires, and the 4" bilge blower, that would compensate .

[scoutmstr]

Max49
See post under Workhorse 8.1 engine problems thread

[HuskyJack]

Hey Max, sorry to hear you crashed, hope you heal up quickly... It's getting hard to stay up with the young guys isn't it?....

Get well fast..
Jack

[semcoll]

Quote:

Originally Posted by max49 I had one burnt wire during the 3 year warranty, then 1 or 2 more in the next couple of years. So I bought the high dollar 409 wires a few trips ago, put in an air induction system with a 4" fan, drilled holes for ventilation, and now already I have the dreaded thump, thump, thump of a dead cylinder, very noticable when backing into the driveway. I did'nt get 3000 miles out of the big fat macho looking wires, but they did "look trick'. I guess I'll just have to buy a box of cheapos and change #5 while I'm gassing up. So much fun unique stuff to do with this chassis.

I feel your pain - I ran mine HARD coming back from the beach on mem day to see if I could get a wire to break down - so far, so good, even with my custom blend of the hi-dollar 409s and a few Autozone specials mixed in.

[DriVer]

Quote:

Originally Posted by max49 I'll take you up on that Driver, Can I still use the stock heat guard with that wire?

yes you are going to need to use the metal shield on the wire I'll send you. Do you need one? I have spare shields too.

Send me you address in PM and I'll send it off via Express Mail. No way no weigh!

Quote:

I broke my femur head trying to run with the young kids on the dirt bike so I probably won't be changing the wire for awhile.

Wow! That's not good! Take care OK?

Quote:

I just thought between the 409 wires, and the 4" bilge blower, that would compensate.

Like Dale said, You have to find out the why before you throw $$ or effort at a problem. Finding out why might take some time to get that nailed down.

[max49]

Thanks Driver, this way I can try the Blue Spiro Extreme on the problem plug and see if that helps. I can not understand the issue, it looks pretty open and ventilated and I put the inline4" bilge blower in blowing on the problem plug area.
Sometimes I have to run 4200+ RPM for 10 or 15 minutes, about 30 MPH, in first gear which must sound like cruel and unusual punishment for you flatlanders but that's the only way to get up the hill. And why is it always the same #5 plug wire? And I'm even sure that's when it happens. The first time it happened was in Jan in S Cal.
I'll send you my address in a PM

[TandW]

Max, I'd had some troubles with #'s 5&7 also. They wouldn't stay clipped to the plugs. Once loose and if ignored it was the arcing within that would cause the wire to then "burn". I think that there is already a huge wind tunnel effect under the doghouse when the viscous clutch grabs the fan and gives it a twirl. I think there is also a harmonic vibrating the unsupported wires when rpm's are high. And I am sure that as heat soak penetrates within the spark plug boot the ferrule loses its grip on the plug, the vibration wiggles the boot and the wind tugs on the wire. This reasoning led me to install looms to support the wires. The problem is gone. Good luck!!

[DriVer]

Quote:

Originally Posted by max49 Thanks Driver, this way I can try the Blue Spiro Extreme on the problem plug and see if that helps.

I Express Mailed the package today.

After install - pull the socks as far toward the engine as you can over the plug boot.

I included a shield just for the heck of it.

[max49]

Thanks Driver.
I don't think I have socks on my other wires. Maybe it will help to have one on the problem plug.
I think #5 has been the only that has given me problems.