TEMPERATURE GAUGE

[ruppr]

'cuse me guys, I did have a question out there before the Autotap.

Best,

[Tom N]

My temperature gauge rises to a needle width below half.

Tom N

[ruppr]

Well, Ancira in Boerne has finally had a chance to look at the rig, guess who is getting a new instrument cluster even though the Suncruiser hasn't been on the recall list---------

Best,

[Horsepowerfan]

Hi Bob,

I had the exact same problem you describe with the temp. gauge swinging to FULL HOT and a chime sounding every so often when we were on our way to PA last year.

I noticed it would only happen when I was accelerating, and surprisingly it caused the display to indicate "CHANGE OIL SOON". I never got a message that indicated low coolant. We stopped a few times and I did not notice any leaks and the cooling system seemed to be running at a normal temp. So, I dismissed it as a software glitch with the cluster. It drove me NUTS 1/2 the way to PA! I also couldn't do anything with the Information Center once the oil change message appeared. It would lock itself on the display and the only way to clear it was to stop and reset the oil life monitor.

Once we got to our destination, the problem kept bugging me so I thought I'd investigate. I pulled off the doghouse and lo and behold I found my problem. A wire harness was chafed through on one of the metal braces under the doghouse cover. It was on the left rear area of the engine and it suddenly all made sense. When I'd accelerate, the engine torquing upwards slightly on the left would short the harness to the brace. The wire that was shorting was for the engine coolant temperature sensor! I traced the wire down in the the harness to the sensor which is located in the RH cylinder head.

Before I repaired the harness I tried to duplicate the condition and I was able to verify it. I started the engine and with it idling the temp. gauge was still fairly low. I touched a jumper wire from ground to the chafed wire and the temp. gauge shot right up and the chime sounded!

I repaired the wire and re-routed the harness for better clearance below the doghouse to prevent this from happening again. It's never happened since.

I'm not discounting the fact that you may have a bad cluster, but have your dealer check this harness.

[Horsepowerfan]

I just posted some photos that may be useful. I'm going to try to paste them here...


Notice the bare wires at the lower left.


Here's a close-up. You can see the yellow wire for the temperature sensor signal chafed all the way through.


All fixed!

[BellaBo]

Tom N.
Here is a website with a OBD tool like you're looking for.You can buy these pre-assembled and the software is free.

I built mine from scratch and it works pretty good. I use it with a serial connector for an older laptop, but there are also a serial to USB converters available on the internet. I have one and if you need a name I'll send it.

You can download their software and run it in simulator mode to see what information you can get.

http://www.obddiagnostics.com/

[ruppr]

Thanks Jim, interesting reading as my change oil notice also came on and would not clear out. Didn't mention that part as 1) it was time for a oil change and 2) I figured that the way I was trying to reset was not the way to do it.

APPRECIATE the feedback-----

Best,

[ruppr]

Just a update, Ancira is now installing the second cluster received. Doesn't seem to be any different than the 1st one received. And by the way Jim (Horsepowerfan) they even took your pictures and checked out that possibility. Alas---didn't find anything wrong.

Best,

[Horsepowerfan]

Oh well, that's a bummer! I suspect there's not a cluster issue especially if replacements aren't making a difference. There could be a problem with the Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) sensor itself. Also, there could be a short in the wiring somewhere else anywhere between the sensor and the ECM. We all know that trying to find an intermittent short or open circuit is like looking for a needle in a haystack and can be extremely frustrating!

I wish you luck my friend.

[Horsepowerfan]

Oh, BTW, I just remembered there was a code set in my ECM for ECT sensor circuit low voltage. Can't remember the #. This was the tipoff that the problem was in the sensor, wiring or ECM. Have your service ctr. check for codes if they haven't already. There's no dedicated sensor for the gauge in the cluster. The cluster gets all of it's info. from the ECM over a single data communication line. If the signal isn't getting to the ECM, then it'll never get to the cluster.

[Gary RVRoamer]

Back to the original question about the temp gauge staying steady at "3 o'clock". My 2002 W22 (under a Dolphin LX) does not work that way at all. My temp gauge responds quickly to changes in load and after it moves up a notch or two the fans will cycle on and stay on til the gauge comes down again. And the normal position on mine is about 10 or 11 o'clock.

Now the ECM is the clearly the same as the rest of you, but I don't have the Actia dash panel, so maybe the programming that runs the gauge is somewhat different with my instrumentation.

Anyway, it works just as expected and is surprisingly sensitive for a modern (computer cotrolled) temp gauge,

[Full-Timers]

Mine reacts the same way as RV Roamers also. It usually hangs out on the first major mark (1/4). When I hear the fan start to road I look down and notice the needle is a notch or 2 above the ¼ mark and quickly comes back to ¼ then the fan shuts down.

[Davel]

Here are some other scan tool type guages that plug into the diagnostic port that you might be interested in.

http://www.scangauge.com/

http://digi-panel.com/

Dave

[ruppr]

Well, on the cluster install, 2nd one made some difference (??) (doesn't act as bad )They have claimed to check for shorts, none, and nothing showing on readouts. We (they) are now talking to Workhorse for other possiblities. Going into week 4 in shop.

If there is safety in numbers, they now have two rigs in the shop, with the same problem.

Best,