Tie Rod Boots

[Rit]

Need to replace my tie rod boots. I am not too keen about using the fork to pop them because I wouldn't want to damage the tie rod end. Standard tie rod pullers seem small. Has anyone had success backing off on the nut and striking knuckle to pop it. Just a little heavier than my pickup.

[edgray]

an't answer your question, but there may be some info Here:What size socket is needed to remove the nut on the tie rods? That may help you. Good luck. Ed

[DriVer]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rit Has anyone had success backing off on the nut and striking knuckle to pop it.

Not unless it was already loose, I don't expect that you are going to move the end by beating on the nut without damaging the stud.

[mfire1339]

It works, back the nut off a few turns and use (2) hammers, one as a backup on opposite side and hit the area around the tapered pin to expand the hole. Tie rod will fall out with no damage. Use a pickle fork if you want to trash the tie rods....

Mike

[DriVer]

Quote:

Originally Posted by mfire1339 Tie rod will fall out with no damage. Use a pickle fork if you want to trash the tie rods....

Have you done this on a Workhorse? What would be inappropriate in using the proper tool?

Notice:

Do not attempt to disconnect a steering linkage joint by driving a wedge between the joint and the attached part. Seal damage may result which will cause premature failure of the joint.

Use the J 6627-A in order to remove the outer tie rod ball studs from the steering knuckle.

[Rit]

Thanks Mike. I know backing off the nut and striking the knuckle works on the the smaller tie rods, just didn't know if it would work on something the size of a Workhorse chassis.

[paz]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rit Need to replace my tie rod boots. I am not too keen about using the fork to pop them because I wouldn't want to damage the tie rod end. Standard tie rod pullers seem small. Has anyone had success backing off on the nut and striking knuckle to pop it. Just a little heavier than my pickup.

Striking the nut will do way more damage than using a pickle fork, as several others have said.

As you have observed, standard pullers and pickle forks are too small - they're made for cars. The space between the forks will not clear the diameter of the stud Workhorse uses. I bought a larger size puller similar to the one shown in the illustration that DriVer posted. It had sufficient spacing between the forks, but the the forks were too thick. After I ground the forks a little thinner, the puller worked well.

Believe me, the joint was tight.

[DriVer]

Quote:

Originally Posted by paz Believe me, the joint was tight.

I agree. I worked on heavy trucks in the Class 6 range and above for 7 years and my experience is that, you are not going to easily break a tie rod end by beating on the stud with a hammer. Take the time to do the job the right way, the first time. Why struggle (?) when this job can be accomplished in a manner consistent with good practices.

[Rit]

Folks I had no intention of beating on the stud or nut. I was referring to hitting the knuckle on the side to get it to drop. Still trying to find a puller such as J 6627A, but no such luck. Might take a shot with a pitman arm puller. They are a little heavier than the automotive tie rod pullers.

[Easyrider]

I replaced my tie rod boots about 3 years ago using the fork and putting new boots on. The new boots lasted about as long as it took me to drive out of the driveway. So I took a tip from this forum and cut a tennis ball in half and then slit each half so I could wrap it around the tie rod and it's been there ever since. And I didn't have to remove the tie rod to do it.

[DriVer]

Found one: Hands On Tools & Cost Plus Tools

Other suppliers list the item as being OOS.

The tool also doubles as a wheel stud puller. (pusher actually)

[dieselclacker]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rit Folks I had no intention of beating on the stud or nut. I was referring to hitting the knuckle on the side to get it to drop. Still trying to find a puller such as J 6627A, but no such luck. Might take a shot with a pitman arm puller. They are a little heavier than the automotive tie rod pullers.

Rit, the method you describe works well. Just use a larger hammer for rapping and backup. I always use my 4 pounder for the backup, and about a 2 pound ball peen for the pounding. Don't be afraid to hit it! Unless you are a professional mechanic, the cost of the tool versus the number of times you will use it doesn't justify the purchase of it.

Dieselclacker

[DriVer]

Quote:

Originally Posted by dieselclacker Unless you are a professional mechanic, the cost of the tool versus the number of times you will use it doesn't justify the purchase of it.

Dieselclacker, Why not try to rent one? Beating on the gear with hammers is not in the maitenance manual.

BUT been there and done that.

I didn't think that I could rent a fuel prressure gauge but I did.

[wa8yxm]

I would not hammer the end of the bolt, nut on or off.. I've ruined some things doing it that way.

Using the proper tool ( the Pusher a couple posts up) seems to do the job well, no damage.