Tie Rod End Boots

[prsmith]

On my W22 chassis built in Dec 04, the tie rod ends are OK but the boots have dry rotted and are split

Is there an after market or other boot that I can replace the bad ones with or do I have to replace the tie rod ends

Thanks,

Preston

[DriVer]

Quote:

Originally Posted by prsmith On my W22 chassis built in Dec 04, the tie rod ends are OK but the boots have dry rotted and are split Is there an after market or other boot that I can replace the bad ones with or do I have to replace the tie rod ends

Preston, You can buy the boots from a NAPA.

[prsmith]

Hi DriVer,

Thanks for that tip

Would you happen to know the NAPA number? or the after market tie rod ends they would fit? There is almost no support for Workhorse in my part of the world

Preston

Quote:

Originally Posted by DriVer Preston, You can buy the boots from a NAPA.

[oemtech]

Quote:

Originally Posted by prsmith Would you happen to know the NAPA number? or the after market tie rod ends they would fit? There is almost no support for Workhorse in my part of the world. Preston

Yes - From my web site Workhorse Xref - Suspension

Part #	        Description	Supplier
650-1178	Tie Rod Boots	NAPA

[DriVer]

Quote:

Originally Posted by oemtech Yes - From my web site Workhorse Xref - Suspension Part # Description Supplier 650-1178 Tie Rod Boots NAPA

Dale, I knew you would pick up on this request!

[prsmith]

Thanks Guys,

You are life savers.

I apologize for asking these simple questions but I will slowly get a handle on resources like Dale's site

Now to see if the Canadian NAPA carries those boots

We had a great Canada day on July 1 - hope you folks enjoy your July 4 celebrations

Preston

[prsmith]

Hi folks,

I now have the dust boots

Can these be replaced without removing the tie rod end or must I totally remove it?

Thanks

Preston

[DriVer]

Quote:

Originally Posted by prsmith Can these be replaced without removing the tie rod end or must I totally remove it?

Preston, You will have to remove the cotter pin, back off on the castellated nut and pop the tie rod end off of the steering knuckle. (You will need a fork and a BIG hammer.)

Clean the end, fit the new dust cover and push the tie rod end back up into the steering knuckle. Tighten the tie rod end up real good. You will observe the end coming back up into its original position. Once tight, look for the opening for the cotter pin. If it's available go for it. If you must, back er' down just a wee bit until you can fit the cotter pin back through the hole. I would also get a new cotter pin.

[prsmith]

Thank you again for the advice.

My 8500 page Workhorse Service manual, which is current to 1998, says I should torque the castellated nut to 48 ft lbs and then turn it to the next higher torque notch to insert the cotter pin. Is 48 ft-lbs still a valid figure for my W22 chassis built in Dec 04?

By the way is there a more current version of this manual? If so where might I find a copy of it?

Thanks again for your help

You folks are so knowledgeable

Preston

By the way, is there an updated version of the workshop manual

[DriVer]

Quote:

Originally Posted by prsmith By the way, is there an updated version of the workshop manual

I have a 2000 something manual and they used to be available on CD from Uptime Parts but I don't see it any longer on the website under "Parts".

I would not disagree with the torque process since it assures a tight fit but many of us wrench slingers jusy have a feel for these things. Mechanics have wrench hands like some drivers have butt dynos!

[prsmith]

HeHe - my Dad was a mechanic and he had wrench hands also

I got the job done yesterday - most difficult task was removing the cotter pins - I bought a pickle fork and with a few whacks the tied rod was apart - I cleaned the tapereed surfaces and examined for wear - put the boot on and used my little floor jack to lift the bottom half back in place and compress the boot -put on some never seize (probably should not have done that) and torqued the castellated nut to 51 vs 46 ft lbs (due to the lubricated threads)

This is where I found out that the pin hole was too big for 1/8" pin and too small for 5/32 pin - used the 1/8" pin because I had no metric pins and was not inclined to drive 15 miles to get some. Should be OK anyways

Topped the boots up with grease from a hand gun and the job was finished.

$14 for the tool and $11 for the NAPA boots - $25 and about an hour of my time - methinks a shop might have charged a bunch more

Thanks again for all of the advice

Preston