Tire Rotation On Your WH

[oemtech]

After getting 6 new Sumitomo tires with Magnum Balancing Beads I decided that I need to at least look at rotating the tires every year or so. But, just how many of us have the tools to remove the lug nuts that we put on with a 1" air ratchet or have the time to go to the shop?

Well I looked at 3/4" Torque wrenches, DIY cheater bars etc and really didn't find anything that was easy to use, not a danger to my health, stored easily and didn't cost an arm and leg.

What I did find, FleaBay, was a Torque Multiplier that was small, compact and really works. It did cost a bit more than I wanted to pay but its comes with everything, including 2 extra sockets, need to do the job. With a 1.58 ratio my wife could loosen the lug nuts.



So, what's in the box....
1) The torque multiplier
2) The crank handle
3) An extension
4) 2 1" sockets 21mm - 33mm
5) 2 extra 1" sockets 38mm - 41mm



How does it work...

Just put the 33mm socket on, rest the leg on the lug nut to the right, install the crank handle ans start cranking. Once you have all the lug nuts loose you attach the extension and just crank the lugs nuts off.



The only thing I have not worked out is how to get the correct torque when you reverse the process. Can you a assume 1lb of pressure equals 58lbs at the other end?

[George Z]

Good find Oemy. Does it work on left and right hand threads? Will it tighten the lug nuts? The price is not outragous compared to an impact gun

[oemtech]

Quote:

Originally Posted by George Z Good find Oemy. Does it work on left and right hand threads? Will it tighten the lug nuts? The price is not outragous compared to an impact gun

Hey George.... to use it on left hand thread and tightening right hand threads you just crank the handle the oposite direction. I just need to figure out how hard to crank the handle to get 450psi when I tighten them.

OBTW - The cost was about $200 shipped to my door.

[dieselclacker]

Dale, looks like a good find. Long ago in another life when I was in the Air Force, we did use torque multipliers on some jet engine repairs. Can't help you in figuring out the torque ratio, we just followed the book when it came to torque specs through the multiplier. I know you will get it figured out though. I will call you when I get a flat.
Just kiddin' it does look like a really nice thing to carry in the motorhome.


Dieselclacker

[Full-Timers]

Rotating tires on a motorhome is a real waist of time and effort!

[JohnRR]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Full-Timers Rotating tires on a motorhome is a real waist of time and effort!

Why so?

[DriVer]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Full-Timers Rotating tires on a motorhome is a real waist of time and effort!

Depends ...

[edgray]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Full-Timers Rotating tires on a motorhome is a real waist of time and effort!

Yes, but if you do it often you can reduce your waistline.

[deputydog]

Quote:

Originally Posted by oemtech The only thing I have not worked out is how to get the correct torque when you reverse the process. Can you a assume 1lb of pressure equals 58lbs at the other end?

One pound of torque would equal 58 pounds assuming there is no friction (which of course there is a good bit) There are a bunch of different torque multipliers and depending on what type of gear system they have as to how much extra torque you have to add to get the proper torque. The really good ones have very little friction, the cheaper ones more. I'd use a good quality digital torque wrench on the multiplier once the lugs are snugged up and probably add 2 to 5% - somewhere around 8 ft/lbs total torque for a 450 ft/lb lug, but that's just a guess.

Remember that torque needs to be measured on dry threads l(ug stud and nuts - no oil/grease) and is a running torque, not break-a-way torque. In other words you can't stop moving the torque wrench and then measure the torque as you start moving the wrench. That is break-a-way torque which is higher than actual torque. You might have 500 lbs of breakaway torque and find that the actual moving torque is only 400 pounds. The wrench has to be in motion when you hit the desired torque.

Unless you have a short torque wrench you may find it difficult to torque with the multiplier as you may have to make multiple turns before it hits the required torque and the handle may hit the ground every rotation making a moving torque measurement difficult.

A better multiplier would be in the range of 5 or 6 to 1 ratio. With the 58:1 and the unknown friction factor if you are off even a little bit, that little bit is multiplied nearly 58 times. 20 pounds of torque (very small amount) would be over 1100 pounds! Probably do some real damage with little effort. Go gentle!!

[M&EM]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Full-Timers Rotating tires on a motorhome is a real waist of time and effort!

The only time I would consider rotation is if the front end alignment causes unusual wear. Then I would swap the fronts as a pair to a rear dual side.

Marty

[Full-Timers]

Quote:

Originally Posted by M&EM The only time I would consider rotation is if the front end alignment causes unusual wear. Then I would swap the fronts as a pair to a rear dual side. Marty

That’s probably the worst thing you can do. The rears duals have to be matched in size.
If you see an issue with uneven front tire wear, have an alignment done ASAP and keep the tires in place until you are ready for replacement.
The reason rotation is a waist is because you will need to replace your tires because of age before you will because of tire wear.

[frankdamp]

Your tires are going to die because of age long before tread wear will become an issue. Why bother?

If you have alignment problems, maybe rotating them would help.

[M&EM]

Quote:

Originally Posted by frankdamp Your tires are going to die because of age long before tread wear will become an issue. Why bother? If you have alignment problems, maybe rotating them would help.

Actually I did have an alignment issue(toe in) during the first 8k miles back in 2003. Ouside rib on both tires (fronts) worn down significantly. All other ribs measured within 1/4 inch circumference compared to the same measurements on both dually tire sets. That's only about 1/12 of an inch difference in unloaded diameters, even less for loaded radius! I had put the 2 front tires on the drivers side rear such that the worn ribs faced each other. Did this based on the crown effect of the road to tend to lean more to the curb side just in case the contact area of the worn tires was effectively less. Also I had a thing about running rotated tires in opposite direction from their original locations.

All this may or may not have had an impact on the tire wear and any other mechanical considerations. How ever, after 7 1/2 years and 53,000 miles, I did feel compelled to replace all 6 tires last year. Even at that point all the tires appeared equally worn but still had a fair bit of rubber and some minor weather checking

I'd agree that tire matching is a key issue and should always be a primary consideration regarding the duallys.

Marty

[Aldev]

Oemy, I would like to know if this multiplier is long enough to use on the rear tires? Does it have the reach to get inside the rim on the back wheels or will you need an extension with the handle?
I've seen those before but was a little leary on buying one because of the depth factor. I have no problem with the front as I can use a cheater bar on the lugs. Thanks for any information.
Al DeVinaspre
2002 32h Bounder W22
Torrance Ca.