Trac bars?

[FrankReno]

Have you built one?
Are you happy with it?
I want to build one for my W22
Thanks
Frank

[FrankReno]

Have you built one?
Are you happy with it?
I want to build one for my W22
Thanks
Frank

[rickandcheryl]

Built and installed OEMTECH's DIY rear track bar, works great.

[FrankReno]

Rick,
Thanks for the reply. Is Oemtech the guy that emailed you the plans?
I folled them and it worked great for about 700 miles, then the bushing came off the joints! I wonder if I machined a large thick washer for the joint if it would stay put?
Thank you for any input you might have.
Thanks
Franks

[Mr Near Purrrfic]

Hey Frank....Take a look at the top bar on a three point tractor hitch.....It is built real stout....has no rubber bushing, and you will not tear it up....you should be able to use the mounts you have allready, with the addition of 3/4 inch holes to mount the new bar...Go into Photos at the top of the page, page down to Upgrades, and look at page 1 at the bottom...a picture of the top link (bar) that a few of us that are not well funded have used...

RRB

[rickandcheryl]

Frank, yes, oemtech emailed me the plans. We took a 6000 mile trip last year and a 1500 mile trip this winter with no problems. I had to use a few extra washers to get everything to line up correctly, but it seems to be working good. Also, I used 3/8 plate instead of 1/4 inch and polyurathane heim joints from SpeedWay Motors. Rick

[DriVer]

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by Mr Near Purrrfic: ... top link (bar) that a few of us that are not well funded have used... </div></BLOCKQUOTE>RRB, That's an excellent effort on that DIY project however over-sized neoprene busings in the knuckles at each end of the bar are not for looks and to simply add cost to the project. They are quite essential by mitigating shock and decoupling the mechanical components from the chassis without affecting performance. This also reduces the stress on all the bolts that attach the device to the differential and frame.

Not tearing up the track bar isn't the most critical thing to think about when installing the device.

Unless a motorhome owner is really dedicated to DIY, an after market solution will provide much better performance and engineering for a price.

Another concern is that when owners add washers and other devices to an installation when properly manufactured products require no additional hardware adds a secondary layer of complexity which may not indicate good design practices.

Cutting cost is important but at what price?

[BellaBo]

Rickandcheryl....
Can I ask what size tracbar and heim joints you used? I'm thinking about using 3/4 Swaged bar and 3/4x16 heim poly heim joints. I have seen 1 inch too but that might be overkill.

I also plan to use 3/8 steel if I can find it locally at a scrap yard.
Thanks,

[FrankReno]

Thanks
Frank

[oemtech]

If I were to do the DIY bar over I would add the following
1) Use the largest bolts possible.
2) Support the heim joint will a fender style washer on each side of the bushing.

Alignment is very important. Using washer to align the bar is not what you want to do as it could pot extra stress on the whole setup.

3/8 steel is minimum.

[rickandcheryl]

I used a 1 inch swaged bar 17" long and 3/4 inch poly heim joints with washers on each side of the joint to stabilize it. Ask oemtech to send you his plans, they are pretty good. And yes, definitly use 3/8 steel for strength.

[Mr Near Purrrfic]

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Posted April 11, 2007 12:29 PM Hide Post
quote:
Originally posted by Mr Near Purrrfic: ... top link (bar) that a few of us that are not well funded have used...
RRB, That's an excellent effort on that DIY project however over-sized neoprene busings in the knuckles at each end of the bar are not for looks and to simply add cost to the project. They are quite essential by mitigating shock and decoupling the mechanical components from the chassis without affecting performance. This also reduces the stress on all the bolts that attach the device to the differential and frame.

Not tearing up the track bar isn't the most critical thing to think about when installing the device.

Unless a motorhome owner is really dedicated to DIY, an after market solution will provide much better performance and engineering for a price.

Another concern is that when owners add washers and other devices to an installation when properly manufactured products require no additional hardware adds a secondary layer of complexity which may not indicate good design practices.

Cutting cost is important but at what price?

03 Winnebago 38G "¢ Workhorse W22 "¢ Adventurer
08 Saturn Vue XE I4 FWD "¢ Blue Ox Aladdin "¢ SMI's™ Vacuum-Assisted Braking System
Nor'Easters - FMCA F290540 - W133150 - Roxy the Doxie </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

I don't know how I missed this comment....But all I can say...... Is Horse Feathers.....

Ron B

[Gregg]

I built mine, also I installed four new Monroe Gas Magnum Shock.
This was 15000 miles ago.
My coach handles beautiful !!
See this link for a couple pics of my trac bar.

http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v233/gregg123/

[DriVer]

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by Gregg:
See this link for a couple pics of my trac bar. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>Gregg, The track bar and mounting brackets looks great for a DIY! My only comment is that the OE track bar designers must have had something in mind when the fitted their bars with over-sized neoprene bushings other than an up charge for a name brand device.

The track bar environment is getting populated in between Henderson, UltraTrak, Road Master, Hellwig and now Blue Ox's Tiger Track.