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12-27-2006, 07:51 AM
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#1
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Member
Join Date: Aug 2004
Posts: 96
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I have the P30 chassis with the GM 4-speed tranny. I'm ready for my first service. I usually do all my mechanic work such as this. Has anyone done this themselves? How difficult? Just drain and refill or drain and drop the pan for a new screen? How do I refill when the dipstick hole is so far back under the hood? Any comment will be appreciated.
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12-27-2006, 07:51 AM
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#2
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Member
Join Date: Aug 2004
Posts: 96
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I have the P30 chassis with the GM 4-speed tranny. I'm ready for my first service. I usually do all my mechanic work such as this. Has anyone done this themselves? How difficult? Just drain and refill or drain and drop the pan for a new screen? How do I refill when the dipstick hole is so far back under the hood? Any comment will be appreciated.
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12-27-2006, 01:47 PM
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#3
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Moderator Emeritus
Winnebago Owners Club Workhorse Chassis Owner Coastal Campers Carolina Campers
Join Date: Jan 2000
Location: Conway, SC
Posts: 23,641
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<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by Art D:
How do I refill when the dipstick hole is so far back under the hood? </div></BLOCKQUOTE>You're going to do it the same way we all do it, with a long tube flexible funnel.
Refill your transmission with as many quarts as you removed, start the engine and allow the transmission to achieve operational temperature. Check again and do not overfill.
__________________
03 Adventurer 38G, Workhorse W22
F&R Track Bars, Safety+ , Ultrapower, Taylor Extremes, SGII
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RV/MH Hall of Fame - Lifetime Member
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12-28-2006, 04:21 AM
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#4
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Senior Member
Workhorse Chassis Owner
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Tucson
Posts: 618
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Art D ask's
<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Just drain and refill or drain and drop the pan for a new screen? </div></BLOCKQUOTE>
Art, you dont say if this is the first service ever. or just since you have owned it.. Either way, if it were me, I would drop the pan and change the filter. It gives you a chance to look at whatever is in the pan in addition to oil.. if there is anything other than minor sludge, you should check it out...rgr...
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2004 Winnebago 33V, WH
2010 Honda CRV
Jim, Lynda, and our 6/2010 model Weimaraner, Quincy, aka Q Man
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12-28-2006, 05:24 AM
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#5
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Senior Member
Workhorse Chassis Owner
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Baraboo, Wisconsin
Posts: 1,728
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I'm also with the change the filter group. It never made sense to me to change the fluids and then leave a dirty filter on. I know some people do that and it seems to work ok for them but to me it seems like your purposely putting the bad stuff back into your new fluids that were the reason you changed fluids in the first place. Filters don't cost that much and you got the mess from changing fluid anyway, might just as well do the filter too!
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Steve & Nancy
2005 Itasca Sunrise 33', W20 Chassis, Ultrapower, Henderson Trac Bar
2012 Chevy Captiva Sport AWD, ReadyBrute Elite Tow Bar, Blue Ox Base Plate, Protect-A-Tow
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12-28-2006, 05:48 AM
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#6
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Senior Member
Appalachian Campers Coastal Campers
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Conway, SC
Posts: 828
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Change the oil, change the filter. This was taught to me years ago.
When you drain the transmission you will note the bottom configuration of the pan. It holds oil, and will have about some remaining, use caution when removing or you will get a bath. Take the old filter to the supply house and match it up with the new, I think there are 4 filters for the GM trans. As stated above check the amount drained and refill with the correct amount. Pick up a transmission filler funnel, long tube to reach the filler.
Good luck, have a bunch of rags available.
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2002 Winnebago Ultimate Advantage 40J, Roadmaster InvisiBrake Model 8700
2012 Chevy Captiva
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