Turn signal/brake light issue

[abrasv]

Parked our new to us '03 Pace Arrow (36B on a Workhorse chassis) for a week in my shop and went to get new tires on it last week and the turn signals/brake lites/emergency flashers won't work. The tail lights work fine. I checked every fuse I could find (under dash, front of the firewall) but all were ok. I've looked at the different forums on here about this but either I'm not searching correctly or no one has had this issue (which is hard to believe).Anyway, any constructive ideas would sure be appreciated as I need to get it inspected and it sure won't pass this way.

[Brian&Jenn]

abrasv,

Do you have any mice, rats, or squirrels in your area? I know it sounds silly, but our "new to us" 03 Dolphin had quite a bit of wiring in the front end damaged and some eaten in half. It was a bit of work to trouble shoot and fix.

[EngineerMike]

If you have VIP SmartWheel or another system that combines these functions in a wire loom, the wire bundle may be loused up in the steering column. This doesn't explain brakes directly, but those may be connected in your coach wiring as brakes & turn signals sometimes are. It is not uncommon to find that the wire loom was pulled excessively, bent over a sharp metal corner & partially stripped, etc. so that some time down the road the wires short out or present an open circuit. Pull whatever shroud covers the steering column & inspect.

In checking fuses, the spring clips holding fuse contacts may not be making proper contact; a fuse can read good w/a tester but not have continuity in the circuit due to corrosion or other poor contact. Need to pull & re-seat fuses if you can't find the problem elsewhere, then recheck the problem.

[Full-Timers]

It’s your multifunction (turn signal) switch. Everything you mentioned goes through this. I have had 2 replaced on my motorhome and the flashers are now not working again on the present one. I doubt it would be a fuse since all 3 have separate fuses.

[gg]

1. check Multifunction switch.

2. Switch =You can check continuity at the switch connector- if open, its the switch, Proof -Apply 12v to the vehicle harness connector and see if your lights come on.

3. If you replace with a new one or one from a recyced yard _ (many GM vehicles use the same switch.) - check for slack in the wiring to the switch when tilting the strg wheel full up to full down. If it tight, reposition the wire tie, or replace with a new one so the wires don't pull on the switch body in the max travel positions. Note the lower plastic shroud would need to be removed to check this.

[scoutmstr]

I have had the MFU fail on my Workhorse (05) in the on position and then replaced. It now won't work the hazards but will work the turn signals. MY W22 uses the exact same MFU as is on my 97 S10 toad which has never failed in 12 years. Does anyone have an idea why the WCC chassis ones fail regularly?

[Full-Timers]

I attributed the first failure to the chassis sitting out in the rain and weather at the Rexhall plant until they got around to building the motorhome on it. But then a second one failed and now a third. Maybe gg is on to something with the wire tie.

[DriVer]

Quote:

Originally Posted by scoutmstr Does anyone have an idea why the WCC chassis ones fail regularly?

scoutmstr, I can't say because mine has not failed. 85,000 miles indicated and almost 8 years of ownership.

[DriVer]

Quote:

Originally Posted by DriVer scoutmstr, I can't say because mine has not failed. 85,000 miles indicated and almost 8 years of ownership.

I just wanted to add that our motor home was struck by lightning in Forest City in July 2008. I have had some weird issues with my signal, brake & cruise control that fail and then miraculously come back on-line as if no problem existed. So I guess I'll have to live with those gremlins ... trying to find a drastically transient event like that would be a very good trick indeed. In the early failures I had found a blown a fuse which I replaced a few times and that would only hold when I uprated the fuse by 5 amps. I think I'm running a 25A fuse and that a 20A came in the circuit OE.

The latest anomaly did not present any fuse failures so I am at a loss as to reason for the failure. Right now all systems are AOK!

I also had a very dim circuit on the toad brake lights only and I was missing a signal on the right side I believe. But all of that corrected itself all on its own. So indeed very weird. I fully expect from my experience that I have a bad ground somewhere. I checked the umbilical cord and spread the pins in the connectors on both sides.

The lightning struck my CB antenna and exited the coach through my shore cord and blew the 50A breaker on the pedestal. !! It also fried my transfer switch and 50A Surge Guard. (and a few other minor things)

[justimagination]

I think EngineerMike has hit the nail on the head, @ least I hope so. All of the wiring coming from the steering column ie. horn, turn signals, headlamps, dimmer switch, w/shiels washer, cruise control, back up lamps, are such tightly CRAMMED in such a small space, it's a miracle anything works. Take your time and check all of the connectors and make sure they are secure. I have even noticed that stretching my feet sometimes on a long drive, will push on the bundle of wires under this area. If your motorhome has a driver door, you will have a little easier access. Good luck, and keep us posted, happy trails and travel safe.
David G.

[gg]

If you have repeat Multi function / Turn signal switch failures and pull a trialer or toad you may be exceeding the current limit on the contact in the switch. I beleive the max current is 6 amps. When wiring up my toad I found the spec but can' t recall where. The auto supply place did sell a relay kit to protect your T/S &flasher system from overloading of the contacts.

New Cars and Light trucks have or are changing to low current control switches that control a relay box. So check your owners manual of the MH and the toad .

[abrasv]

Let you all know I'm still working on it. I've checked and rechecked all fuses and they are ok. Pulled the back lights off and tested them- no power there- took the bulbs out and tried them in another vehicle and they worked fine. Started to work on the wiring bundle from the column (must be 50 wires in there) and with it being cold they are stiff so now waiting for a little warm up later this week. Have to leave town on business anyway. Will keep you all updated. Thanks. Jim

[abrasv]

Well, finally got it working. Tried all the fuses again and they were all good. Decided to test power at the plug in for the tow plug.. Had power there so went back to the taillight assembly and tested the wire to the light- had power there so took the bulbs back out (I had only taken one out prior to this) and saw a lot of corrosion around the metal part. I bought all new bulbs and wire brushed the connectors on the light assembly to where they were shiny like new. Put it back together and wah-laa. Lights all work.

I appreciate all the help that was offered and it did force me to look at areas that I would not have considered. Learned alot about the MH by doing this.:thanx:

Maybe this will help others with light problems in the future.

Thanks, guys.
Jim

[TandW]

Ain't that aggravatin'?! Makes you wanna go twist the arms off Sis's Betsy Wetsy!!