Upper fan shroud

[Full-Timers]

How hard is it to replace the upper fan shroud on a 2002 W22 chassis. My fan just ate mine. What a surprise running down the road at 60mph.

[M&EM]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Full-Timers How hard is it to replace the upper fan shroud on a 2002 W22 chassis. My fan just ate mine. What a surprise running down the road at 60mph.

Haven't actually replaced mine but did some major repairs before it became FF,, (fan food).

Looks like top radiator hose and air intake from MAF need to be displaced or removed to get at mounting point bolts on radiator frame. I would add a minimum of 3 extra sheet metal screws along the top radiator frame mounting.

I did my repairs with the fan clutch/fan removed, much easier to move upper shroud into place. Use Drivers mod for attaching lower to upper shroud.

Marty

[DriVer]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Full-Timers How hard is it to replace the upper fan shroud on a 2002 W22 chassis. My fan just ate mine. What a surprise running down the road at 60mph.

Fortunate for me ... my shroud let loose at idle speeds however I was able to creep into a campsite and fix the shroud.

[Duner]

What causes the problem with the upper fan shroud? About 6 yrs ago I added a screw to the middle of the lower shroud because it would get sucked up and rub the fan blades. Is there a similar problem with the top too?

[Full-Timers]

Some idiot designed it with a slotted hole. Looks like mine just slipped out from under the bolt then got sucked into the fan.

[M&EM]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Full-Timers Some idiot designed it with a slotted hole. Looks like mine just slipped out from under the bolt then got sucked into the fan.

Yup, same way mine failed.

And probably many more will too. Poor design. Plus the top shroud also is a mounting support for the 4 inch air pipe coming from the MAS to the throttle body. Plus the top shroud also supports the weight of the upper radiator hose. Add some high temperatures and several years and those three top mountings will all fail.

I was able to salvage my shroud by re attaching with 5 sheet metal screws and fender washers along the top edge. The fan milled a slot thru the top wide enough to fit your hand thru. Repaired that with garage door rubber seal and contact cement. Sealed off the sides using same material cemented to the shroud sides and contacting the radiator tanks.

You will see higher engine temperatures if these shrouds are not properly sealed and directing only radiator heated air to the fan. Fan clutch replacement will not make up for poor shroud condition.

Marty

[Full-Timers]

Does anyone know if the PCM stores engine temps? I would like to see just how high my temps got. My gauge is not like everyone else’s. It usually runs about ¼ gauge and actually fluctuates with engine temps. I see it go from ¼ (155) to just under 1/3 (183) then the clutch fan kicks in and you can see it drop back to ¼. After it sucked the upper shroud I saw it go from just above ¼ (162) to as high as ½ (210). I know the numbers on the gauge aren’t right, wish they were, but these are my reference points. Engine still runs and sounds good but I did notice a puddle of tranny fluid and drips on the tranny pan. I cleaned it all up and will keep an eye on it. It looks like its just coming from the pan gasket. Hopefully after the shroud replacement and I get it running in the normal temp range again the tranny leak will be history. I may give the pan bolts a torque check.

[DriVer]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Full-Timers Does anyone know if the PCM stores engine temps? I would like to see just how high my temps got. My gauge is not like everyone else’s. It usually runs about ¼ gauge and actually fluctuates with engine temps. I see it go from ¼ (155) to just under 1/3 (183) then the clutch fan kicks in and you can see it drop back to ¼.

I remember having the same ballistics in the analog gauge that I had on my 2001 Workhorse. I don't believe that there is a way to get at the max hi-temp from the IP. Perhaps it gets stirred in the ECM and can be retrieved by a Tech II BUT not certain about that.

[Full-Timers]

Just to check things out I started it up today. It was about 100 degrees outside. I let it idle for 15 minutes and the gage came up to ¼ (normal) and stayed there. Of course this was just at idle. I then blocked the tires, made sure the Park Brake was on, shifted it into reverse, and let it idle for another 15 minutes. The gage came up another half mark. I shut everything down and rolled under to check the transmission for leaks. Looks good.

After talking to JimAerbus,W22,2003 (Jim) I decided to attempt the shroud replacement myself. I figured I would start with removing the old one and see how that goes. Not too bad. The shroud is out and I started cleaning everything up until I was soaked in sweat. I decided to give it up for a day since was 110 outside and I am not going anywhere for a while.
Here is a link to the photos

[edgray]

FT: Glad you didn't get a heat stroke! Excellent pictures, THKS. Ed

[Full-Timers]

I went to order the shroud this afternoon and they actually had them in stock. They say they have replaced a lot of them. I am a little concerned though. The new shroud is an exact match with numerous improvements. I added some photos of the new shroud to the photo site (link in above post). My concern is the new shroud is much stiffer than the original, which means it might be more difficult to get it back in since I had to flex the old one to get it out. I was able to get the old one out (upper and lower) from the bottom without removing anything.

They sure want a lot for 2 pieces of molded plastic. Omey has a price list on his site that lists the upper at $14.04 and lower at $13.53. Apparently these are wholesale prices because I paid $42.78 each, $95.31 total with tax plus another $2.87 for the hardware.

[edgray]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Full-Timers I went to order the shroud this afternoon and they actually had them in stock......... They sure want a lot for 2 pieces of molded plastic. Omey has a price list on his site that lists the upper at $14.04 and lower at $13.53. Apparently these are wholesale prices because I paid $42.78 each, $95.31 total with tax plus another $2.87 for the hardware.

FT: MAYBE you should not feel too bad about what you paid. I just went to a website called "workhorseparts.com", which is apparently a division of McBrides RV, and entered the part numbers from the "other" thread in their search feature. Here are the results:

entered 15980519- returns W0011423 @ $124.44

entered 15980518- returns W0011905 @ $102.00

Maybe OEMY can shed some light on these apparent discrepancies. Ed

[Full-Timers]

The part numbers on my invoice are;
Upper Shroud – W0005416
Lower Shroud – W0005417
The part numbers on the part are;
Upper Shroud – W0013763
Lower Shroud – W0013764

[M&EM]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Full-Timers My concern is the new shroud is much stiffer than the original, which means it might be more difficult to get it back in since I had to flex the old one to get it out. I was able to get the old one out (upper and lower) from the bottom without removing anything. .

FT

Once the fan and fan clutch assembly are removed, It should be much easier to get the upper shroud into place...

Marty