Go Back   iRV2 Forums > THE CHASSIS CLUB FORUMS > Workhorse and Chevrolet Chassis Motorhome Forum
Click Here to Login
Join iRV2 Today

Mission Statement: Supporting thoughtful exchange of knowledge, values and experience among RV enthusiasts.
Reply
  This discussion is proudly sponsored by:
Please support our sponsors and let them know you heard about their products on iRV2
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
 
Old 10-14-2008, 07:52 AM   #15
Senior Member
 
tropical36's Avatar
 
American Coach Owners Club
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: SW Florida
Posts: 1,912
I wouldn't think there'd be too much of an overcharge then. Doesn't seem like you're using an over amount of water, if any.
__________________

__________________
07 Revolution LE 40E_1 1/2 Baths_Spartan MM Chassis_06 400HP C9 CAT_ Allison 3000
Dinghy_2010 Jeep Wrangler JKU ISLANDER
1998 36ft. National Tropi-Cal Chevy Model 6350 (SOLD)
tropical36 is offline   Reply With Quote
Join the #1 RV Forum Today - It's Totally Free!

iRV2.com RV Community - Are you about to start a new improvement on your RV or need some help with some maintenance? Do you need advice on what products to buy? Or maybe you can give others some advice? No matter where you fit in you'll find that iRV2 is a great community to join. Best of all it's totally FREE!

You are currently viewing our boards as a guest so you have limited access to our community. Please take the time to register and you will gain a lot of great new features including; the ability to participate in discussions, network with other RV owners, see fewer ads, upload photographs, create an RV blog, send private messages and so much, much more!

Old 10-14-2008, 07:57 AM   #16
Senior Member
 
hamguy's Avatar
 
Workhorse Chassis Owner
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Mesa, AZ USA
Posts: 1,806
I have been considering installing a switch which would allow me to disconnect the house batts from the alternator charger.

I don't need to keep the house batteries at full charge while driving and the loads on them are minimal while the engine is running (I think).

We rarely drive for more than 5-6 hours at a time and if the house dropped below 12.4, I could switch the alternator connection back on.

Comments anyone?
__________________

__________________
Wretched excess is just barely enough.

2002 Itasca Suncruiser - WH Chassis - 35U - 2006 Jeep Liberty
hamguy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-14-2008, 10:27 AM   #17
Senior Member
 
Workhorse Chassis Owner
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Northwestern Montana
Posts: 3,157
Clay if you are measuring voltage at battery terminals, 14.8 volts is too much. Correct charge rate at the battery is 13.8 to 14.2 volts. And yes the voltage regulator is in the back of the alternator, and can be replaced if faulty.

Dieselclacker
__________________
Dieselclacker
dieselclacker is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-14-2008, 05:12 PM   #18
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Central NJ
Posts: 249
Pat,
You are describing a good 3 stage converter/charger, not what an alternator does.

I too have 14.2 showing on the instrument cluster and 15.0 at the battery(measured with 2 different Fluke RMS meters). I don't know why there would be a difference unless the instrument cluster has its own voltage regulator.

I don't put enough miles on my RV to worry about it....except

I don't like the idea of running my fridge(gas absorption not compressor) on gas while driving. I don't like it because my HWH is at the right rear of my RV and if I were rear-ended, I would have a propane fire for sure. I installed a off the shelf inverter to power the fridge. The reason I noticed I had a high charging alternator is because, as the VDC would go up with the alternator, the VAC output on the inverter would go down(below 108 VAC). The fridge does not like to work below 108 VAC.

Rick
__________________
2003 Sightseer 30B riding on a P-32
rick_od is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-14-2008, 05:39 PM   #19
Senior Member
 
hamguy's Avatar
 
Workhorse Chassis Owner
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Mesa, AZ USA
Posts: 1,806
You would be VERY unlikely to have a propane fed fire since in the event of a line rupture, the tank internal safety shutoff valve would stop the flow of gas.

There might be a 'poof' from residual propane but it likely wouldn't even be noticed!
__________________
Wretched excess is just barely enough.

2002 Itasca Suncruiser - WH Chassis - 35U - 2006 Jeep Liberty
hamguy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-14-2008, 06:26 PM   #20
Senior Member
 
FreshAir's Avatar


 
Workhorse Chassis Owner
Entegra Owners Club
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: UT/AZ
Posts: 1,244
<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by rick_od:
Pat,
You are describing a good 3 stage converter/charger, not what an alternator does.

I too have 14.2 showing on the instrument cluster and 15.0 at the battery(measured with 2 different Fluke RMS meters). I don't know why there would be a difference unless the instrument cluster has its own voltage regulator.

I don't put enough miles on my RV to worry about it....except

I don't like the idea of running my fridge(gas absorption not compressor) on gas while driving. I don't like it because my HWH is at the right rear of my RV and if I were rear-ended, I would have a propane fire for sure. I installed a off the shelf inverter to power the fridge. The reason I noticed I had a high charging alternator is because, as the VDC would go up with the alternator, the VAC output on the inverter would go down(below 108 VAC). The fridge does not like to work below 108 VAC.

Rick </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

Rick, you are correct as that is from a typical 3 stage charger of which alternators and their voltage regulators kinda achieve the same thing.
Normaly alternators are thought of as charging at a rate of about mid 13 volt range to the 14.2 volt area.
But actually this is a better description of what to expect when measuring voltage.

The actual output voltage produced by the charging system will vary depending on temperature and load, but will typically be about 1-1/2 to 2 volts higher than battery
voltage. At idle, most charging systems will produce 13.8 to 15.3 volts with no lights or accessories on. This can be measured by connecting the positive (+) and negative (-) test leads of a voltmeter to the battery posts while the engine is running.

I'm in no way saying you may or may not have a problem. Just be careful your just not chassing your tail. Take it to a shop and have an alternator/electrical system check done.
Pat

Here
__________________
Pat & Denise
2016 Entegra Aspire RBQ
Silverado
FMCA 212171
FreshAir is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-15-2008, 05:11 AM   #21
Senior Member
 
Workhorse Chassis Owner
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: western wa.
Posts: 541
glad to see this post. had very same problem with our 04 w20. 14.8 at the batteries. couldnt keep water in them. the alt never tapered off. w/h said take it to repair station. did that n they said w/h said no problem. go figger.any dimwit knows a constant 14.8 is way too high. just ask the battery makers. our new rig is doing the same thing. just took a 2000 mile trip. filled batts before we left. got home n could not see water in any of 4 house batts. you guesed it 14.8 at the batts. W/H get your act together!!!!!!!!!!!!
__________________
2007 NRV DOLPHIN LX 6342

WORKHORSE W-22
cannon man is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-15-2008, 06:11 AM   #22
Senior Member
 
tropical36's Avatar
 
American Coach Owners Club
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: SW Florida
Posts: 1,912
Has anyone ever contacted GM on this? I mean who supplied the alternator? Did it not come with the 8.1 Vortec engine? I'm also wondering what the difference is for my 130amp unit on my Chevrolet P chassis. I don't think I have that problem, but I'll put a digital meter on the batteries, the very next time, I start it up, just to make sure. I only say this, because the voltmeter in the dash cluster always shows under 14v. My old pace arrow had an external regulator and the dash meter was lucky to stay in positive territory when things were turned on.
__________________

__________________
07 Revolution LE 40E_1 1/2 Baths_Spartan MM Chassis_06 400HP C9 CAT_ Allison 3000
Dinghy_2010 Jeep Wrangler JKU ISLANDER
1998 36ft. National Tropi-Cal Chevy Model 6350 (SOLD)
tropical36 is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Electrical Malfunction GrumpynAZ Fleetwood Products Owner's Forum 7 12-30-2008 06:16 PM
Electrical Malfunction GrumpynAZ RV Systems & Appliances 2 12-28-2008 08:08 AM
Workhorse voltage regulator rick_od Workhorse and Chevrolet Chassis Motorhome Forum 11 05-20-2008 06:35 AM
Bussman Switch Malfunction Ronnie Bledsoe 2006 Dutchstar 43' Newmar Owner's Forum 11 07-12-2007 04:37 AM
onan voltage regulator Ol'Joe MH-General Discussions & Problems 1 06-28-2005 05:10 AM

» Featured Campgrounds

Reviews provided by


Copyright 2002- Social Knowledge, LLC All Rights Reserved.

All times are GMT -6. The time now is 05:30 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 1
Copyright ©2000 - 2018, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.