Voltage Regulator Malfunction?

[Art D]

I have a 2004 P32 chassis. The voltage at the chassis battery is about 14.8 volts when the engine is runnning, even though the instrument cluster indication is 14.2 volts. The voltage never drops down from 14.8.
The reason I just noticed this is that I changed out my coach batteries and made some measurements and found this out. The original coach batteries were not low maintenance and I was always having to add water about every 500-1000 miles.
I checked my other vehicles and the voltage starts out at about 14.3 and drops to 14.0 after a few minutes.
Do I have a defective voltage regulator? Can it be adjusted? Could someone tell me or post a pic where it is located? The MH is a Winne 30B. If I could find it I would probably just install a new one.
Oh, by the way, I installed a switch so I can control the battery contactor operation so that the coach batteries only charge from the engine when I want them to.

[Art D]

I have a 2004 P32 chassis. The voltage at the chassis battery is about 14.8 volts when the engine is runnning, even though the instrument cluster indication is 14.2 volts. The voltage never drops down from 14.8.
The reason I just noticed this is that I changed out my coach batteries and made some measurements and found this out. The original coach batteries were not low maintenance and I was always having to add water about every 500-1000 miles.
I checked my other vehicles and the voltage starts out at about 14.3 and drops to 14.0 after a few minutes.
Do I have a defective voltage regulator? Can it be adjusted? Could someone tell me or post a pic where it is located? The MH is a Winne 30B. If I could find it I would probably just install a new one.
Oh, by the way, I installed a switch so I can control the battery contactor operation so that the coach batteries only charge from the engine when I want them to.

[FreshAir]

Are you sure you have a problem?
This is a quote.

Battery Charging
Battery charging takes place in 3 basic stages: Bulk, Absorption, and Float.
Bulk Charge - The first stage of 3-stage battery charging. Current is sent to batteries at the maximum safe rate they will accept until voltage rises to near (80-90%) full charge level. Voltages at this stage typically range from 10.5 volts to 15 volts. There is no "correct" voltage for bulk charging, but there may be limits on the maximum current that the battery and/or wiring can take.

Absorption Charge: The 2nd stage of 3-stage battery charging. Voltage remains constant and current gradually tapers off as internal resistance increases during charging. It is during this stage that the charger puts out maximum voltage. Voltages at this stage are typically around 14.2 to 15.5 volts.

Float Charge: The 3rd stage of 3-stage battery charging. After batteries reach full charge, charging voltage is reduced to a lower level (typically 12.8 to 13.2) to reduce gassing and prolong battery life. This is often referred to as a maintenance or trickle charge, since it's main purpose is to keep an already charged battery from discharging. PWM, or "pulse width modulation" accomplishes the same thing. In PWM, the controller or charger senses tiny voltage drops in the battery and sends very short charging cycles (pulses) to the battery. This may occur several hundred times per minute. It is called "pulse width" because the width of the pulses may vary from a few microseconds to several seconds. Note that for long term float service, such as backup power systems that are seldom discharged, the float voltage should be around 13.02 to 13.20 volts

more info.

click on "Battery Charging"

Pat

[max49]

Art, I also have the '04 P-32 chassis. My Actia voltmeter seems to be welded to 14.2 volts also.No matter the load or RPM.
I have 21,000 miles and have'nt had a problem tho, so how did you determine that the 14.8 volts is more accurate than the 14.2 volts.
Sry I can't help with the location of the voltage regulator but hopefuly someone else can.

Watch your gearshift, mine came off in my hand today. One little plastic pin holds it on.

[DriVer]

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by max49:
Sry I can't help with the location of the voltage regulator but hopefully someone else can.
</div></BLOCKQUOTE>Max, As far as I know the voltage regulator is built in to the alternator.

Missed you at the Rally! Maybe you can attend the rally in Greenville, OH next year. There will be factory tours and all that.

[max49]

My wife and I had plans to go to Moab , 10/08 before the ATVs were stolen. We talked about going to the rally, but decided we were'nt going to let the thieves change our plans so we took the motorcycles to Moab and the San Rafael Swell.
But thanks for the invite to the Ohio Rally.
We might do it.

[John-D]

On my coach I have a "Rig-Runner" this is a 12 volt power distribution switch.

It has over/under voltage alarms in it. Normally they are silent however when signaling a turn it beeps.. yes.. The alternator runs a bit "hot"

[Clay L]

My alternator puts out from 14.2 to 14.8. It bounces between those two numbers. Verified by three digital meters.
I asked a WH customer service guy about it and he the 14.8 is a little high.
So far I haven't done anything about it. If it was urgent I figure something would have broken in 5 years and 33,000 miles. I did have to replace the chassis battery after the fourth year.

[Duner]

Art,
What voltage do you read at the chassis battery after driving for say, one hour or two?

If it stays at 14.8 all the time, then after a long drive (like 6-8 hours) you will be overcharging the batteries. I'm mean using a digital voltmeter measuring right at the battery terminals.

I'm not sure about this, but I think the engine alternator is just a two-stage charger. Initial high current charge, then a lower voltage that maintains the charge with the voltage at 13.2 to 14 or thereabouts depending on the temperatures and load.

Your coach charging is probably a 3-stage charger like Pat described above.

If you can pull the alternator yourself, take it in to an auto-electric shop. They can test it and replace the internal regulator and it won't cost you an arm-n-leg to fix, maybe less than $50.

Good luck,

[Bob (WA0MQE)]

Driver is correct... the regulator is built in to the alternator. The only repair is to replace the alternator. Mt previous moho was a 2002 P32, about 3 months into my ownership the gauge was showing over 15 volts. I called Workhorse and they said anything over about 14.8 is too much. They sent me to a Workhorse Shop and the alternator was replaced. Luckily still under warranty. Afterward the gauge showed about 14.2 to 14.5

[tropical36]

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by Clay L:
My alternator puts out from 14.2 to 14.8. It bounces between those two numbers. Verified by three digital meters.
I asked a WH customer service guy about it and he the 14.8 is a little high.
So far I haven't done anything about it. If it was urgent I figure something would have broken in 5 years and 33,000 miles. I did have to replace the chassis battery after the fourth year. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>
Clay....13.8V would sound better, as you know. Do the batteries hold their water for very long? Just curious.

[hamguy]

Art,

My '02 Suncruiser exhibits the same problem. also, I have to add water every 1000 miles or less.

To MAX, I have 2 precision voltmeters and they read within 0.02 volts of each other when reading the 14.8 reading.

I believe the regulator is built in. I have asked this question before and have not received an adequate answer. I hate to replace the alternator if 'this is the way it is supposed to be'?

dean

[Art D]

Everyone,
Thanks for all the comments. Looks like I have a common situation with the high charging voltage. My symptoms and results are right in line with most of you. The only thing that I have not done is to check the voltage at the battery after several hours of engine running.
Like I said, I have installed a "cut-off" switch to the battery contactor coil so at least I can keep from overcharging the coach batteries while on the road.

[Clay L]

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by tropical36:
<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by Clay L:
My alternator puts out from 14.2 to 14.8. It bounces between those two numbers. Verified by three digital meters.
I asked a WH customer service guy about it and he the 14.8 is a little high.
So far I haven't done anything about it. If it was urgent I figure something would have broken in 5 years and 33,000 miles. I did have to replace the chassis battery after the fourth year. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>
Clay....13.8V would sound better, as you know. Do the batteries hold their water for very long? Just curious. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

The first chassis battery was a Delco maintenance free one with no way to check the water level as far as I know and it lasted four years.

The one in there now (Walmart brand) is one that I can check and so far - with about 4500 miles traveled and almost a year - I have not had to add water to the chassis battery.
The house batteries have not needed water either.
I use the battery disconnect switch when we are parked any length of time so the majority of their charge time has been from the alternator.