W-22 AIr Filter Help Needed

[FLYTYER]

I have read and studied the posts regarding the mods and use of a K&N filter , etc.

However I am not very impressed and unconviced about the so called improvements vs the cost.

Because I have the Ultrapower Upgrade installed at the IRV2 rally in July, today I called Brazels and spoke with Mike about the pinging I am realizing in 5th and 4th gears just before it down shifts. He said the problem is likely to be a dirty sensor (name ??) in the air flow.

I opened up the housing and removed the filter. I could not see the sensor but did see where it is. Do I loosen and remove the clamps behind filter housing to get to it? How do I clean it?

Also, in front or face of the filter there was a loose thin foam facing than appeared to be lightly oiled. What is this and why is it not described in the Workhorse manual? What do I do with that? Is it part of the filter? Will I get a new one with a replacement filter?

The filter itself is clean and looks new even though there is almost 11,000 miles on it.

[FLYTYER]

I have read and studied the posts regarding the mods and use of a K&N filter , etc.

However I am not very impressed and unconviced about the so called improvements vs the cost.

Because I have the Ultrapower Upgrade installed at the IRV2 rally in July, today I called Brazels and spoke with Mike about the pinging I am realizing in 5th and 4th gears just before it down shifts. He said the problem is likely to be a dirty sensor (name ??) in the air flow.

I opened up the housing and removed the filter. I could not see the sensor but did see where it is. Do I loosen and remove the clamps behind filter housing to get to it? How do I clean it?

Also, in front or face of the filter there was a loose thin foam facing than appeared to be lightly oiled. What is this and why is it not described in the Workhorse manual? What do I do with that? Is it part of the filter? Will I get a new one with a replacement filter?

The filter itself is clean and looks new even though there is almost 11,000 miles on it.

[Father Mulcahy]

Mike is talking about the MAF sensor. It is located after the air filter box. Look where the air filter box exit is and you will notice some hose claps. Between these clamps is the MAF sensor. It has a wire coming off the top of it. You can take the sensor out and clean it with MAF sensor cleaner or carb. cleaner. Do not touch anything inside the sensor, just spray it out go and let it dry. I also have pinging and have cleaned mine many times. I even had the guys at Brazels check my program when I was in the area and it still pings. I do not know if I have to replace the sensor or what? I have a K&N filter

[FLYTYER]

I am really struggling with the MAF sensor...I cannot get the housing holding the sensor off. I loosened all 3 clamps one at a time, but the housing just does not want to slip out of the large hose. Is there a way to get more leverage or a better way??

I did get the back part of the Air filter house off but that did not help me either, in fact it was a struggle to get it back on.

[Father Mulcahy]

The first time taking it out is the hardest. Just work the hoses lose back and forth. You will get it.

[Paul and Sue]

I am kind of add on to this post but the same topic. I am doing the same but when I started, I found that one of those three spring clamps that holds the air filter box closed was missing. I only have two that keeps the box closed and the water getting inside the air filter is really in play now. I tryed to find a clamp but not having too much luck without buying the complete air filter box. Anyone one out there know where to get just the spring clip?

Thanks
Paul

[Trek-Cyclist]

The joint between the intake pipe and the airfilter box is a bandaid to say the least! Front side facing the grill
Go to a hardware store and buy the bubber joint sleeve that is used when joining vent pipe together depending on the length it has clamps attached. It makes a professional fit vs. a patch looking thing from WH that allowed air to get into the box because the sleeve they had on there was to short but what the heck it was something I guess!

[edgray]

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">I tryed to find a clamp but not having too much luck without buying the complete air filter box. Anyone one out there know where to get just the spring clip? </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

According to page 95 of my chassis guide, the filter box CLIPS are GM / WCC part # 25169408. I would think almost any GM dealer should have them in stock. Good luck, ED

[DriVer]

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by FLYTYER:
Is there a way to get more leverage or a better way?? </div></BLOCKQUOTE>Like JJ Walker would say, "Di-No-Mite!"

[Full-Timers]

What about FLYTYER's question about the foam filter? I am wondering about that myself.

[DriVer]

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by Full-Timers:
.... about the foam filter? I am wondering about that myself. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>If you are using the stock air filter components, restore the foam pre-filter once its clean.

[757driver]

I recently purchased a replacement filter for the motorhome and the workhorse part number has the foam pre-filter glued on to the main filter. My old one had the foam pre-filter as a seperate removable filter.

Don

["007"]

Don, don't see a problem it maybe glued on because people may have not been putting on the removeable filter when they changed their filter.

[757driver]

Your right 007 no problem, just different. It is thicker that the old removable one and seems to work just fine.

Don