W-22 Brakes went out

[WeatherTodd]

Originally Posted by DriVer

Workhorse service manuals will also recommend gravity bleeding, takes longer but t works.

just because a service manual says so... doesnt mean its correct.
A vac bleeder does an excellent job in a short amount of time.

[DriVer]

Originally Posted by WeatherTodd

just because a service manual says so... doesn't mean its correct. A vac bleeder does an excellent job in a short amount of time.

Please don't assume that efficient speed using a purposefully built tool is any more effective than gravity bleeding because the process works and one could be proven wrong if hedging a bet against the slower process ...

[iRV4FUN]

Originally Posted by oemtech

Don't ASSUME anything...

Here is a photo of 1 year old fluid compared to new.

Looking at your 1 Year Old Bottle collection I can't help but ask; If this fluid in the Master Cylinder gets this dark, why not change the Master Cylinder fluid up every year and gravity bleed every two or three?
Would there be any advantage to keeping the Master Fluid new?

[Dunner]

Originally Posted by WeatherTodd

just because a service manual says so... doesnt mean its correct.
A vac bleeder does an excellent job in a short amount of time.

Be careful vacuum bleeding. Too much vacuum can cause cavitation in the brake line and you have to start over. You can also get a false reading when the vacuum sucks air past the bleeder threads. A way to prevent that is to put some teflon tape on the threads.

[WeatherTodd]

Originally Posted by DriVer

Please don't assume that efficient speed using a purposefully built tool is any more effective than gravity bleeding because the process works and one could be proven wrong if hedging a bet against the slower process ...

yes because pros that do this for a living would waste time "gravity bleeding".

Not for nothing but some folks shouldnt handle tools or certain tasks. Promoting "gravity" bleeding like its a commandment... well service manuals arent bibles.

[WeatherTodd]

Originally Posted by Dunner

Be careful vacuum bleeding. Too much vacuum can cause cavitation in the brake line and you have to start over. You can also get a false reading when the vacuum sucks air past the bleeder threads. A way to prevent that is to put some teflon tape on the threads.

Sure can. My 32" prybar can do a substansial amount of damage to the paint on my coach as well.
Not my first brake bleed rodeo and yes... the threads can leak. Could very well be a catalyst for the OP's problem.
The teflon paste is recommended over the tape... as the tape could break off and clog an orifface.

[Dunner]

Originally Posted by WeatherTodd

Sure can. My 32" prybar can do a substansial amount of damage to the paint on my coach as well.

No biggie... It's only a Monaco.

["007"]

Never had a problem with gravity feed always worked for me.
Didn't take that long either.

[DriVer]

Originally Posted by WeatherTodd

Not for nothing but some folks shouldn't handle tools or certain tasks. Promoting "gravity" bleeding like its a commandment... well service manuals aren't bibles.

I would ask if you built a machine and then provided a maintenance manual for that machine, would this not be a bible according to WeatherTodd?

I am a long time ago laterally transitioned heavy equipment mechanic and I would not even consider gravity bleeding a vehicle. There just isn't enough time in a day to earn a living at it.

On the other hand an RV owner with noting but time on their hands can indeed gravity bleed a wheel end reliably without too much trouble. That said a device like an Oemy Speed Bleeder will accelerate the process using a 1 man method without the need for a pressure bleeder as well.

[WeatherTodd]

Originally Posted by DriVer

I would ask if you built a machine and then provided a maintenance manual for that machine, would this not be a bible according to WeatherTodd?

I am a long time ago laterally transitioned heavy equipment mechanic and I would not even consider gravity bleeding a vehicle. There just isn't enough time in a day to earn a living at it.

On the other hand an RV owner with noting but time on their hands can indeed gravity bleed a wheel end reliably without too much trouble. That said a device like an Oemy Speed Bleeder will accelerate the process using a 1 man method without the need for a pressure bleeder as well.

Same folks that spec'd the Bosch brakes? I wouldnt consider it a bible but more of a guideline. Ive peeped at more than my share of manuals for foreign and domestic vehicles. Many with inaccurate specs or protocols. Mistake by design or just part of planned obsolesence?

[Dunner]

Gravity bleeding is fine if you're only doing a caliper or wheel cylinder, but to do the whole system - not worth the time. I have no one to help me, so have had to use everything from 2X4s to bungee cords to a home made pressure bleeder to a vacuum pump and gravity.

The most frustrating system was my sand rail. I went thru a quart and a half of brake fluid before I found out Tatum Sandrails didn't install the pads. One would think that if they installed the calipers, they would do so with the pads in them.

[Ramblin]

OK, bought a set of speed bleeders from Oemy's site. Once they get here, I'll install them and do the old flush-n-fill. Thanks to all for the great information.

[NeilV]

I won't part with my MityVac Vacuum Bleeder. I lost two calipers (friction media fractured taking out the boots and froze the pistons) and had to change them out by myself on an abandoned air strip in Alabama and it would have been miserable to do with the gravity method. Found a deal at O'Reily's and it was the best $35 I ever spent.

Sorry but it was a 9 year old F53 with Kelsey Hayes brakes not a Bosch issue. Can't tell you how relieved I was to see old Detroit iron under there and not the Euro stuff. A few hundred dollars and some scraped knuckles and it was done. New calipers are Napa Gold Lifetime so if they go again it will only cost me my time.

[mgscott4]

Harbor freight brake bleeder vacuum pump $25

Brake Bleeder - Harbor Freight Tools