W-24 Air Flow Problem

[Floridakamper]

Does the W-24 chassis have the air flow problem and plug wire issue I've seen discussed here. If it does, will the Taylor Extreme wires resolve the issue or is the vent system required? If the vent is the solution, what is the aproximate price of the part and part and installation if anyone knows. Thanks

[speed racer]

The chassis is not the problem. It's the way the body is put on the chassis that causes the air flow problem.

[millsrv]

I have a 2007 Winnebago Voyage on a W24 Chassis. If you look through the wheel wells just above the tires you can clearly see all of the spark plugs. This is true on both sides, there appears to be plenty of air flow. This coach only has 5500 miles on it, so it is too early to tell, but I cannot imagine that the lack of air flow around the spark plugs is going to be an issue.

[RV Mech Tech]

Bob - check out www.workhorse.com , click on the parts link and a picture of the ventilation kit # W8005026 and pricing info will come up - you can make this kit yourself as well out of locally available parts and modify these parts to fit your application/RV - -this problem with the extra heat is not only Workhorse specific - I have made many of these installations on older RV's with the same symptoms using locally available parts even adding electric fan(s) in some cases -putting a price on installation depends on the RV itself and what's involved in the installation, how much room there is around the engine compartment etc.

[Sammie]

Quote:

Originally Posted by millsrv I have a 2007 Winnebago Voyage on a W24 Chassis. If you look through the wheel wells just above the tires you can clearly see all of the spark plugs. This is true on both sides, there appears to be plenty of air flow. This coach only has 5500 miles on it, so it is too early to tell, but I cannot imagine that the lack of air flow around the spark plugs is going to be an issue.

Most makes of RV's get decent air flow at normal traveling speeds. It's just when you are working the engine to it's Max when grinding up a long uphill grade that the exahust manifolds are glowing cherry red. This is when there is little or next to none air flow to keep the spark plug wires from cooking.

Sammie

[RV Mech Tech]

Sammie - or when sitting in traffic on a hot day - this is where an extra fan can come in handy to increase the airflow problem- most of the newer RV's have alot more clearance around the engine as you and 'millsrv' stated and as 'speedracer' has said "its a body problem not a chassis problem- a lot of the earlier problems associated with RV's have been corrected such as this lack of airflow over the engine - G.M. even had a service bulletin for their earlier P-30 chassis used on motorhomes that suggested doing the same thing to build an air induction system to bring cooler air over the engine.

[Floridakamper]

Thanks for the info. I've got 16,000 miles on my Newmar. On the trip we're presently on, I detect a little stutter or miss on acceleration. I just ordered a fuel filter from Dale. I'll put that on in the campground before we move again. I figure if that doesn't solve it, a burned plug wire might be my problem and I was considering the Taylor wires as a solution. I've also read in this forum that the MAF sensor might cause a similar problem. I'm glad this resource is here to help me solve this issue. All the best. Bob

[Floridakamper]

[QUOTEBob - check out www.workhorse.com , click on the parts link and a picture of the ventilation kit # W8005026 and pricing info will come up ][/QUOTE]

RV Mech, I did check the link and pulled the kit up but it said to check with your dealer for pricing. Thanks for the link.

[edgray]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Floridaguy Thanks for the info........... I've also read in this forum that the MAF sensor might cause a similar problem. I'm glad this resource is here to help me solve this issue. All the best. Bob

BOB: If the stuttering/ miss began after you were driving in rain or mist, please check your air filter for excessive wetness. An improperly sealed airbox can allow too much water to wet the filter and that affects the MAF sensor's signal to the ECM.

All I'm sayin is that it isn't ALWAYS the plug wires!
Ed

[DriVer]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Floridaguy I did check the link and pulled the kit up but it said to check with your dealer for pricing. Thanks for the link.

Floridaguy, Yes that is correct, you can call Golby Motors, ABC Bus or Courtesy Chev in Orlando for a price for the kit or you can check with the closest center to you. Uptime Parts does not have a mechanism in place to retail parts directly to customers.

[Floridakamper]

I haven't driven in wet weather on this trip. Before the trip, I did replace the air filter and did an oil/filter change. At highway speeds with the cruise control on I don't notice the stuttering/miss only while accelerrating to highway speeds. As mentioned by MillsRV, I do have a good view of the plugs and wires from the wheel wells.....guess I never looked before. There is no evidence of a melted wire like I saw in a pic posted here. I also saw mention of using a spray cleaner on the MAF, would that be worth a shot? And if the fuel filter was the culprit, should I have a check engine light--which I don't. Bob

[edgray]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Floridaguy I haven't driven in wet weather on this trip. Before the trip, I did replace the air filter and did an oil/filter change. At highway speeds with the cruise control on I don't notice the stuttering/miss only while accelerrating to highway speeds. As mentioned by MillsRV, I do have a good view of the plugs and wires from the wheel wells.....guess I never looked before. There is no evidence of a melted wire like I saw in a pic posted here. I also saw mention of using a spray cleaner on the MAF, would that be worth a shot? And if the fuel filter was the culprit, should I have a check engine light--which I don't. Bob

BOB: not sure about the check engine/fuel filter connection. Because I'm a "don't fix what ain't broke" kind of guy, I would NOT attempt any cleaning of the MAF. Your reply indicates to me that your problem probably is a burnt wire....I just wanted to throw out the possible water issue, because checking the filter is an "easy" thing to do....and costs less than replacing wires. Good luck with finding the source of your stuttering miss. Ed

[DriVer]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Floridaguy I also saw mention of using a spray cleaner on the MAF, would that be worth a shot? And if the fuel filter was the culprit, should I have a check engine light--which I don't. Bob

Floridaguy, Yes of course if would be OK to clean your MAF. Just make sure you get the specific product that says on the can "MAF Cleaner." CRC makes one. The sensor wires on the MAF are critical please be careful in handling it. A low-flow fuel filter may not set any DTCs (diagnostic trouble codes) on your IP (instrument panel). If you have not done so you may want to consider changing your filter but that is a long shot. Best thing is get a center to DX your condition with a Tech II. ANY Chevy or GMC dealer will also have one.

[RV Mech Tech]

BOB - sorry I was thinking about another site that had prices - check your chassis/body clearance in the front wheel area - if they are wide open and you can see the exhaust manifolds as 'millsrv' says then you really do not need an airflow kit as it will have little effect- if you find that your problem is ignition related such as a burned wire and the engine compartment (coach body) does cover most of the engine then an airflow kit will help with the cooling- as I said its easy to make a kit on your own- you can use any type of hose (available from any supplier such as Flexhaust - www.flexhaust.com) that is made for high temps and for the air scoops I usually use HVAC furnace sheet metal inlet peices or you can use wood dust vacum system plastic peices that attach around table saws to mount in the front area to pick up the cool air - the hose inside diameter will depend on how much clearance you have in the engine compartment -if you do find that the problem is ignition related I would pull the spark plugs ( let the engine cool completely if you have aluminum cylinder heads before removing the plugs) and check the condition of each one - reading the plugs is an excellent indiator of whats going on in each cylinder (just ask the NASCAR teams!) and if there is a problem causing the plug to foul or misfire then you will know about it and can fix the problem before any serious engine damage happens- I have seen brand new engines misfire so do not take anything for granted.