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Old 04-18-2007, 10:02 AM   #15
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<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">but I assume the wire going back to the little vacuum pump is also charging the battery, </div></BLOCKQUOTE>
GARY: I think it you may be correct. Once I left the ignition switch "on" in the "towing" position overnight after diconnecting the Vue from the MH. The next morning, the battery was so dead there was not even the dreaded "click, click" sound when I tried to start. Since the Vue was still parked close to the hitch, I simply plugged in the electrical connection (two wires for the USG) and went to breakfast in a friend's dually. When we returned less than 2 hours later, the Vue started right up without hesitation. The USG plug saved me having to dig out the jumper cables!!

FWIW, I stand by my recommendation to follow the directions in the owners manual. The "tech" is not going to be anywhere around IF you develope a problem and expect warranty to fix it. ED
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Old 04-18-2007, 02:43 PM   #16
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Thanks edgray. Point well taken. Some day when I am very energetic, bored and have nothing else to do I will get out the USG manual wiring diagrams and determine exactly how it's wired in on our Vue. Hopefully that day will not be in the near future because it's time to hit the road again and investigate this wonderful country of ours. Everyone drive safe.
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Old 04-18-2007, 05:20 PM   #17
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My owner's manual says to pull the 30A ign fuse when towing. I have done this each time. Thanks again for the tips on wiring in the switch.
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Old 04-20-2007, 04:31 AM   #18
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who makes the BEST rear trac bar for W/20-W/22
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Old 04-20-2007, 04:49 PM   #19
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<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by RICK SUSA:
who makes the BEST rear trac bar for W/20-W/22 </div></BLOCKQUOTE>Why, Brazel's RV Perfomance That's who! And it comes in "Red".
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Old 05-01-2007, 04:44 PM   #20
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Driver

Just wanted to let you know I took my MH to Mobile (no one in the Biloxi-Gulfport area aligns trucks or MH's) today to a truck alignment shop. Every spec was right on the money, no changes were made. If I get the trac bar installed do you recommend a WH service center? My closest center is in Hattiesburg, MS, about 85 miles.
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Old 05-01-2007, 05:53 PM   #21
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<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by IRVTrekin2:
If I get the trac bar installed do you recommend a WH service center? My closest center is in Hattiesburg, MS, about 85 miles. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>Workhorse Service Centers do not normally install track bars and other performance products unless they are so equipped to provide that specific service.

I installed my own track bar using my hand tools and a camera. I took a number of pictures however our past server crash erased all the pictures that I had in my post. I still have the pictures but I would have to upload them all over again.

A vendor like Camping World or an RV specialty shop can install your track bar for you.
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Old 05-11-2007, 01:26 PM   #22
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Hello,
Before spending alot of money, play with the tire pressures. Everyone talks about setting tire pressure as recommended by the tire manufacturer based on weight. If the alignment and all components are right and the tire pressures set to say 5lbs over recommended pressures (to allow a safety net) from tire manufacturers weight chart and you still wander, play with tire pressure.
If the coach feels like it does not want to turn (push), raise the front tire pressure. If it is wagging the tail (loose), raise the rear tire pressure.
Remember, the pressure in the chart is the minimum pressure for the weight on that tire. It is not gospel. Also, do not under any circumstances run different pressures on the same axle because the corner weights are different. Set pressure to the heaviest loaded tire on that axle.
Tire pressure manipulation will usually cure most handling problems.
Randy
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Strong, gusting winds? Raise the tire pressure slightly to take out some of the sidewall flex.



iRV2.com RV Forum THE CHASSIS CLUB Workhorse Custom Chassis Motorhome Forum W20 handling[/quote]
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Old 05-11-2007, 04:26 PM   #23
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<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by knebrdr:
Before spending alot of money, play with the tire pressures. </div></BLOCKQUOTE> It's inexpensive to try and this process may yield good results.

A track bar on the other hand will allow you to run more ride comfortable pressures by addressing the inherent instability in the leaf spring and shackle assembly. A small lateral movement there can be amplified by the flex in the side wall of the tire and physics takes over from there.

Race cars dramatically improve their handling by a pound or 2 of air pressure however when it comes to getting the thing to stop pushing a little ratchet action on the track bar usually helps a lot.
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Old 05-11-2007, 05:53 PM   #24
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<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by IRVTrekin2:
I need to start a square one again, get the alignment checked again, find some place to weigh it, each wheel and possibly install a front trac bar. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>
-----------------------------------------------

IRVTrekin, should you decide to get an alignment this is something I would seriously consider. Changing the caster from the Workhorse setting of 3 degrees to 5 or 5 1/2 degrees. If the folks that do your alignment are doing a lot of Workhorse chassis alignments they will likely be aware of this. Alignment Specialist in Salt Lake City, who I had check my alignment and do a lot of Workhorse alignments, said this it what they recommend as a Starter before throwing a lot of bucks at the problem. They said Workhorse is aware of this change and will approve it. For what it's worth, Alignment Specialist do a ton of Workhorse alighments and were fully aware of the wandering problem and were recommended to me by Davis Track Bar.
Here was their approach. Change caster while doing a complete alignment. Now drive it and check. If still unhappy do the front track bar. They said they will NOT install a safety steer anymore before installing a front trac bar as they had to many customers do the safety steer thinking that would fix their handeling problems and in some cases made it worse and were unhappy. Safety steer is designed for safety for tire failure and not specifically for handeling issues. I did the alignment, caster and front trac bar at the same time even though Alignment Specialist recommended only do the caster and then check. I'm completly satisfied with the results. Immediate improvement. Steers as well as my new Silveraso. I wish I had done only the caster first to see the results. Just my 2 cents worth.

Number "one", get your tires set at a proper pressure.
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Old 05-12-2007, 03:54 AM   #25
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<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by Pat & Denise:
Changing the caster from the Workhorse setting of 3 degrees to 5 or 5 1/2 degrees. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>Pat, I would not recommend exceeding 5?s of caster. Positive results from service centers along these lines have been documented for a long time and it certainly is an option.

The new UFO features 5? of caster right off the bat.

A safety steer system in my opinion isn't as effective of a component as a Safe-T-Plus. The "Plus" component of the device mitigates to a great extent bump steer using its internal centering components. Coupled with a front track bar as a system the STP works from the ground up and the track bar works from the vehicle down. I have run this configuration for more than 35,000+ miles and have been quite satisfied with the degree of comfort that I get while driving.

RV performance firms that specialize in suspensions have also confirmed that the system works by installing below floor cameras and observing before and after operations.
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Old 05-12-2007, 05:35 AM   #26
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Driver i agree with your 5 degree max for caster. This was also explained to me during install. They try for 5 degree setting but since the shim,"wedge", is at say 2 degrees and your orginal caster may be at 3.2 degrees, you could end up slightly over 5 degrees. Mine came out at 5.3 degrees which I was told was acceptable. I guess I was being a little to general in saying 5 1/2.

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Old 05-12-2007, 05:46 AM   #27
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<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by Pat & Denise:
Driver i agree with your 5 degree max for caster. This was also explained to me during install. They try for 5 degree setting but since the shim,"wedge", is at say 2 degrees and your orginal caster may be at 3.2 degrees, you could end up slightly over 5 degrees. Mine came out at 5.3 degrees which I was told was acceptable. I guess I was being a little to general in saying 5 1/2. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>I will also be adding the Safe T-Plus soon, but my point was if one is working on a steering/wandering problem it should be, "Track Bar first then Safe T-plus / Safety Steer."

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Old 05-21-2007, 07:12 PM   #28
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Received the Ultra Trac Rear Track Bar I ordered from Brazel's a few days ago. A friend of mine and I installed it this evening. It wasn't too bad a job and it helps to have a young friend that can pull 150 lbs on a torque wrench. I took it out on the interstate for a test drive and can already see an improvement in the handling. Will give you a more indepth report after our 2 week trip in June.
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