W20 handling

[IRVTrekin2]

Just purchased a 2007 Allegro 34WA, with a W20 Workhorse chassis in Atlanta. On the drive back to Biloxi I thought I had lost my touch at driving until I read a number of the posts with the same kind of problems. The dealer checked the alignment and was suppose to be good, air pressure good in all tires, less than 2" of difference between receiver on coach and base plate on Vue. I have driven a number of different large trucks, pulled a 33' 5th wheel thousands of miles and have never had anything feel like this going straight down the interstate with no cross winds. It almost feels like you are driving on ice especially on a new paved surface. It is surely not overloaded because there is nothing in it. This constant minor corrections to keep it in a lane is insane. It is hard to believe that a brand new coach drives like this and the chassis company brags on their web site about how well their W chassis handle. According to everything I have read, I need to start a square one again, get the alignment checked again, find some place to weigh it, each wheel and possibly install a front trac bar.

[IRVTrekin2]

Just purchased a 2007 Allegro 34WA, with a W20 Workhorse chassis in Atlanta. On the drive back to Biloxi I thought I had lost my touch at driving until I read a number of the posts with the same kind of problems. The dealer checked the alignment and was suppose to be good, air pressure good in all tires, less than 2" of difference between receiver on coach and base plate on Vue. I have driven a number of different large trucks, pulled a 33' 5th wheel thousands of miles and have never had anything feel like this going straight down the interstate with no cross winds. It almost feels like you are driving on ice especially on a new paved surface. It is surely not overloaded because there is nothing in it. This constant minor corrections to keep it in a lane is insane. It is hard to believe that a brand new coach drives like this and the chassis company brags on their web site about how well their W chassis handle. According to everything I have read, I need to start a square one again, get the alignment checked again, find some place to weigh it, each wheel and possibly install a front trac bar.

[wilanddij]

Firstly, are all the suspension part torqued down to specs?

Load it up like you would for travel and get it aligned. Supposedly, the mfg aligned it when it left the line, but ...

Then also get it weighed when loaded for travel. Then you can adjust the tire pressure per the tire mfg. recommendations. You may actually have too much pressure in the tires.

If its still skittish after that, I'd start with a rear track bar.

[rvten]

I added the Steer Safe to my W-20 which made the steering a little tighter. Helps in cross winds. The W chassis is much better than the P chassis MH's I have had in the past.

[DriVer]

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by IRVTrekin2:
I need to start a square one again, get the alignment checked again, find some place to weigh it, each wheel and possibly install a front trac bar. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>About that alignment, unless you have a computer print out in your hand I would not buy into what the dealer told you as being gospel.

The most effective change I felt in my chassis was to begin with a rear track bar however I would make sure the alignment is documented OK. If you need the specs let us know and we'll get those for you.

You can also download the FREE Chassis Guide by using our link in the top of the forum. That will have the specs for the W Series so have those with you when you go to the laser alignment truck shop. Get a before and after printout. I'd like to know all the values that are recorded including caster.

This is what a track bar setup looks like for the W-Series.



The Workhorse "Track Bar" is represented here.

You can get the UltraTrack Bar from Brazel's RV Performance

[edgray]

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">It is surely not overloaded because there is nothing in it. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>
In addition to all the other suggestions you rec'd here, may I suggest you go ahead and put your "stuff" in it before spend a bunch of money fixing a problem(s) which MAY go away or at least be affected by the additional weight. ED

[max49]

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by rvten:
I added the Steer Safe to my W-20 which made the steering a little tighter. Helps in cross winds. The W chassis is much better than the P chassis MH's I have had in the past. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>
I just want to say that I have a 34' 9" MH on an '04 P-32. Alth some after market suspension goodies may help. I see NO need for them. It handles fine for me, and I'm not a slow poke driver.

[IRVTrekin2]

Thanks to all for additional tips.
Driver, I downloaded the chassis guide so I will have the info for the alignment.
Edgray, How do you like your US Gear Unified Tow Brake? I ordered one yesterday.

[edgray]

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Edgray, How do you like your US Gear Unified Tow Brake? I ordered one yesterday. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>
I like it so well I paid to have it removed from a wrecked toad and re-installed in the new Vue. It works well, easy to hook up and go, and everything is out of sight and permanetly installed. One tip- IF your toad requires you to pull a fuse because of leaving the ign switch in the on position, then save your self some time and aggravation by installing a switch to eliminate the need to pull the fuse. ED

[IRVTrekin2]

Edgray, I have seen a couple other posts about wiring a switch in to keep from pulling the ign fuse. Is there a wiring diagram available or a locations as to where it should be added?

[Paulin]

IRVTrekin2,

I bought a 30 amp, single pole, single throw bat handle toggle switch at a local auto store, don't remember if it was NAPA or some other. But, it is a common item and should be readily available.

I also bought a 30A, heavy duty automotive style fuse holder with wire "pigtails", some #10 AWG wire and a couple of 30 amp fuses. These fuses are similar to the "mini fuse" style but larger.

I crimped a spade lug onto one of the NEW fuse holder wires and inserted it into one of the slots where the original 30A IGN fuse resided. This places the new fuse holder just outside the stock, under hood fuse compartment in the VUE. I then spliced a length of #10 AWG wire to the other NEW fuseholder pigtail and routed it through the firewall via the existing grommet and over to the underside of the dashboard immediately adjacent to the center console where I located the switch. The switch is attached w/ two sheet metal screws into the underside of the plastic(?) dash and the bat handle points down toward the floor. This places the switch close to my right knee and mostly out of sight.

From the other terminal of the switch, I routed more 10AWG wire back through the grommet to the remaining slot on the ORIGINAL fuse holder to complete the circuit.

I don't have any photos, but if it would be helpful I'll take some and attempt to post them.

Paul

[ghamblen]

IRVTrekin2 - If you have a 2006 Saturn VUE V6 you don't have to pull any fuse if you are using the US Gear Unified Tow Brake. A wire from the motorhome goes back to the VUE to control the vacuum pump used for the power brakes. We have driven our 2006 VUE over 17000 miles and towed it at least 10000 miles, never pulled any fuse and have had zero problems. Prior to towing make sure you turn off all accessories in the VUE and perform the transmission shift procedure. The key is placed in the ACC position while towing and it does not collect any miles on the odometer. We purchased a 6-wire electrical cable with our tow bar so one connection hoods up everything, the lights on the VUE and the Unified Tow Brake. The system works great.

[edgray]

IRVTrekin2: As Gary has posted, YOU may not need to pull any fuse. My recommendation is to carefully read your owner's manual to determine what your particular model requires. There are different instructions for different year models. "Trial & error" method also works- you can do nothing and SEE if you end up with a dead battery

On mine (05) Saturn requires the 30 amp fuse labled IGN to be pulled from the under hood box. What a PITA! Therefore, I cut the fuse in half, soldered 10ga. wire to each side of it and reinstalled the cut fuse in the box. The switch is mounted inside under the dash and "completes" or "disconnects" the circuit depending on which way the switch is thrown.

ED

[ghamblen]

edgray - My 2006 Saturn manual has the same notation about pulling the 30 amp IGN fuse. And I agree it is a real PITA, need pliers to get it removed. The dealership where I purchased the car installed my unified tow brake system. The tech said he didn't think it necessary to remove the fuse when towing, just turn off all accessories in the car. I took his advice and so far, so good. The manual also states that you should perform the transmission shifting procedure every 7 hours, regardless of whether it is being towed or just sitting there. Since we only drive about 300 miles/day we never exceed the 7 hour limit. Some days we have used the brake a lot, such as city driving, etc. Every time you step on the brake that little vacuum pump in the Saturn will run for 10 to 15 seconds to build up the vacuum for the power brakes. So far the battery always seems to be fully charged after towing most of the day. I don't know how the brake system is really wired but I assume the wire going back to the little vacuum pump is also charging the battery, since it always seems to be fully charged. Don't know for sure. So far, we love it. With the six wire cable both the lights and the brake system are connected or disconnected at the same time. Don't have to find storage space for the brake system when not towing.