W20 Ignition Switch Problem

roger1938 · 08-20-2010, 11:29 AM

Ignition switch problem? 2004 Monaco Safari Trek. W20 chassis. Mfg 11/01/2003.

I searched through the archives for “ignition switch” and none of the entries seemed to deal with my particular problem, unless it has to do with the WH relay modification kit as a solution. I have had the unit to one Workhorse service shop and have contacted a WH roadside assistance tech, all to no avail.

The problem. Put the key in the ignition and start the engine. All with no problem. Turn the engine off and remove the key, the power to the dash remains on and the alarm sounds. The only way I can cure the problem at this juncture is to disconnect the chassis battery.

Seems to me that there is either a “welded” switch contact or there is a stuck relay someplace.

max49 · 08-20-2010, 11:43 AM

Can you restart the engine with the key removed?

After you reconnect the chassis battery, does power come back to the dash before you put the key back in?

I assume jiggling the switch doesn't turn it off.

It does'nt sound like a common ignition switch problem, but sure sounds like it.
I don't understand why a WH svc cntr couldn't diagnose/ fix it. What did they say? "Uh, just disconnect your chassis battery?"

roger1938 · 08-20-2010, 12:22 PM

Good point. Turn the batt back on and the inst pnl is dead. Can't turn the switch w/o the key in it. Ok. Insert the key nothing happens, LCD display doses not light. Turn key to the run position and nothing happens, dash doesn't self check and LCD does not light up. Key still in the run position, haven't started the engine yet and turn on the headlight switch, the dash self chks and the LCD comes on.
Turn off the switch and remove the key, the alarm sounds continuously, the LCD is lit (there is an error msg displayed but I can't read it due to the missing dots on the display, it does start with word "check")and the parking brake alarm light on the dash is on. Disengage the parking brake and nothing changes. Disco the bat and everything clears.

It does not sound like a welded switch contact. A stuck relay?

The service cntr and I were not getting on well at end of the day and when they told me I would have to send in the display panel to fix the problem. I agree that would be the fix for the LCD prob but had second thoughts about laying out $600 for a fix that might not work.

DriVer · 08-20-2010, 02:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by roger1938

The service cntr and I were not getting on well at end of the day and when they told me I would have to send in the display panel to fix the problem. I agree that would be the fix for the LCD prob but had second thoughts about laying out $600 for a fix that might not work.

Roger, Is that how much they quoted you for an instrument panel?

Grant it, you most likely need a new IP since you can't read it however would it be possible to try a second service center to get another opinion?

I don't think that we have seen a thread here with the symptoms that you are describing and we have a lot of threads.

Did they check for codes using a Tech II?

roger1938 · 08-20-2010, 03:38 PM

When I brought it in the "Chk Eng" lamp was lit. They chked for the code that lit it and it had something to do with the IP. They obviously cleared it because it is no longer lit.

Concerning the price for a replacement. They said around $650 and I would have to wait a week or so.

I think I will wait till we get back home before I will try another service center.

roger1938

oemtech · 08-20-2010, 05:09 PM

Assuming your out of warranty call Actia directly and see what a replacement LCD is. I have 2 #'s 866-662-9945 and 574-264-2373 and I have not used them in a long time.