W22 Differential Service

[rlbow43]

I just started doing my own maintenance beyond oil changes. Been having fun. Am now ready to tackle the rear end. I'm not sure when the last service was done to it - I've had it about 3 yrs - so it sounds like I need to drain and change the fluid. We have put about 24.5K miles on and have been pulling a toad almost all of the time.

According to the chassis guide I downloaded, it will take just over 3 gal of fluid (24.5 pints) - unless I calculated wrong. That seems like a lot of fluid and $$$, although the rear end does look big. Is that qty right?

Also, where can you buy the 75W-90 synthetic gear oil in gal containers? So far, I've only found an oil distributor that will sell it to me in larger than qt sizes. Their size is a 5 gal bucket ($122.85 for Union 76, or $134.19 for Chevron RPM - both synthetic). What do I do with the extra almost 2 gal? Will it keep till the next drain cycle? If so, any special storage notes?

If it won't keep, anyone close to Eugene, OR that might want to make a deal for the leftovers?

Thanks to all replies. This forum is really good. Spend a lot of time reading the posts. Good stuff here.

[rlbow43]

I just started doing my own maintenance beyond oil changes. Been having fun. Am now ready to tackle the rear end. I'm not sure when the last service was done to it - I've had it about 3 yrs - so it sounds like I need to drain and change the fluid. We have put about 24.5K miles on and have been pulling a toad almost all of the time.

According to the chassis guide I downloaded, it will take just over 3 gal of fluid (24.5 pints) - unless I calculated wrong. That seems like a lot of fluid and $$$, although the rear end does look big. Is that qty right?

Also, where can you buy the 75W-90 synthetic gear oil in gal containers? So far, I've only found an oil distributor that will sell it to me in larger than qt sizes. Their size is a 5 gal bucket ($122.85 for Union 76, or $134.19 for Chevron RPM - both synthetic). What do I do with the extra almost 2 gal? Will it keep till the next drain cycle? If so, any special storage notes?

If it won't keep, anyone close to Eugene, OR that might want to make a deal for the leftovers?

Thanks to all replies. This forum is really good. Spend a lot of time reading the posts. Good stuff here.

[DriVer]

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by rlbow43:
Thanks to all replies. This forum is really good. Spend a lot of time reading the posts. Good stuff here. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>rlbow43, Your differential fluid is synthetic and it is unlikely that it will require changing at 24.5K miles and 3 years.

[rlbow43]

DriVer, the motorhome has 38.6K miles and 5.5 years (2003 Southwind). I'm pretty sure there hasn't been a change in the fluid to-date.

I'm happy to not change the fluid, but somewhere I saw 2 yrs or 24K miles if you had severe service (including towing a trailer, which I equated to a toad). If that's wrong or doesn't really define severe service, I'm happy to just check and fill to level, if needed.

Thanks for the reply.

[Marshall316]

Not trying to push any certain brand, but Amsoil sells it by the gallon. You can purchase it online at the Amsoil online store. They also sell a hand pump that connects to the gallon jug, making it real easy to refill the rear axle.

[rgrstndgby]

Rlbow43, If you decide to do the change, look in your local Yellow Pages for the distributor of the brand you want to use. Ive bought Mobile 1 gear lubes, and ATF for years by the case(quarts), and by the gallon(jugs)from the Tucson Dist. I'm sure other brands are available too....rgr,,

[DriVer]

All major brands of fluid that are rated for GL-5 and 100% synthetic in content will work just fine.

[rlbow43]

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by DriVer:
All major brands of fluid that are rated for GL-5 and 100% synthetic in content will work just fine. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

Sounds like you would drain and replace the fluid.???

[tderonne]

Dana recommends 100,000 mile or 1 year highway and 40,000 or 1 year for severe duty miles for mineral based lube. 250,000 / 3 years highway, 100,000 / 1 year severe duty for Synthetic.

I have to imagine most motorhomes never get changed...

And yes it is three gallons. I passed on synthetic figuring that three gallons of fluid just can't get that hot. And I'll probably change it in a few years again.

[rlbow43]

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by rgrstndgby:
...look in your local Yellow Pages for the distributor of the brand you want to use. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

rgrstndgby, thanks for the hint. Called around today, found a distributor for Mobil who sold me a case of quarts for $92.19, or about $7.70/qt - about $3 less than the $10.79/qt for Valvoline synthetic at NAPA here. Plan to drain and fill tomorrow. Biggest problem will be to find a place to dispose of the old tranny fluid before I start so I can use the containers for the old rear end lube.

[RV 4 2]

Give a call to any of your local auto parts stores. I think many are now starting to accept oil to recycle. I know my local Autozone and Kragen stores do.
As for a container, do you have any empty gallon milk jugs, empty anti freeze containers, old/empty plastic gallon+ clothes liquid soap containers. What about going to a auto parts store and looking for oil storage containers that you can keep. Just trying to think of containers you can use. I use a big plastic 5 gallon jug to store my used oil in until it gets full then I go to the local Hazmat place to empty it. It used to hold photo chemicals so the plastic is pretty inert and thick. Wish I would have gotten 1 or 2 more. As for a container under the vehicle, I have an ancient 12 qt pot that I use. I empty until it gets about 3/4 full, replug the drain, empty in the 5 gal then repeat as needed.

[js9315]

In our area any place that changes oil also accepts waste oil from do it your self'rs (I think they are required to to prevent DIY'rs from dumping it down the drain). I collect my waste oil (including transmission fluid) in a 5 gal kerosene container (looks like a 5gal gas can only blue - get it at Northern Tool); and when it is full take it to the local quick lube, they just have me dump it in with the rest of the stuff they collect - no charge.

[rlbow43]

Turns out Eugene has a county waste/hazardous waste site. They take it all - oil, tranny lube, diff. fluid, antifreeze, paint, electronics, whatever. Dumped the tranny fluid this am and some of the antifreeze. Will take the rest tomorrow - needed the containers to put today's stuff in.

One more question on the rear end change. Looks like the drain & filler plugs had a thread sealer or something that looks like that on them. Is that standard? If so, what to use?

And just a note to other first time rear end lubers: Don't level the coach with the jacks like I did. It doesn't get the rear end level. You need to drive the coach on blocks of some kind. My first thought when the fluid came running out was that the rear end was overfilled. Finally realized the coach was level, but the rear end was about 3" low. So, I'll fill, screw in the plug, and then get the wheels level and top off. Next time I'll know - if I remember.

Thanks again for all the help and suggestions. I wouldn't have started this maintenance thing without all the good words in other posts. Wasn't hard, but I was encouraged by what others and done and wrote. And I know I saved a bunch!

[DriVer]

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by rlbow43:
Sounds like you would drain and replace the fluid.??? </div></BLOCKQUOTE>No sir; My only purpose is to state the requirements. GL5 lube is also used on Workhorse chassis equipped with wet front hubs.