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Old 06-23-2013, 12:17 PM   #1
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W22 Ignition Issue - please read this

Hi, first post here. Have been searching the WH threads attempting to trouble shoot and solve an ignition issue with our Winne Brave 29A 2001.

Just returned home from a trip, and it ran great. Turned the key in the ignition to off, and it felt difficult to turn but turned the rig off. It sat in the driveway for several hours while we unpacked but has not started since.

When I put the key in the ignition and turn full forward for engine start all I get is a thump type click out of the top solenoid inside the metal box right side engine compartment. There are two solenoids inside that box with lots of 12V red battery cable.

With the ingition "on" the lights work (but don't dim) dashlights, radio, and dash fan/vents all work. Chassis and house batteries all 12.6V and I've tried to start from the house bank - same sound.

So far I've replaced the starter motor and solenoid assembly under the rig. Have taken the steering wheel off and played with the key lock cylinder. Reached into the key cylinder column empty with a pair of plier and turned the tab but same result. The directionals do not work.

Hooked up the OD2 code reader to see if the system was logging anything but it cannot connect. Says to turn the ignition ON so I'm thinking it's a wiring issue inside the steering column.

Starting to get past my level of comfort with this issue. Any help or suggestions or recommendations would be greatly appreciated.
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Old 06-23-2013, 12:41 PM   #2
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Have been pulling multimeter readings on everything I can. Here's a photo of both selonoids inside the engine comparment right hand side. The top one makes the clunk click sound when ignition is turned to engine start.

Getting 12V on all the red battery wires and 12V on the center bottom yellow at ignition start. The top two hover around 0.36V. Zero volts at the starter motor or paired solenoid under the rig.

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Old 06-23-2013, 12:55 PM   #3
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That solenoid set up looks to me like an isolator circuit to keep the coach batteries and the chassis battery separated with the key off....based on what you describe it sounds as though the electric part of the ignition switch is no good or you have a blown fuse somewhere....
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Old 06-23-2013, 01:02 PM   #4
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Quote:
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That solenoid set up looks to me like an isolator circuit to keep the coach batteries and the chassis battery separated with the key off....based on what you describe it sounds as though the electric part of the ignition switch is no good or you have a blown fuse somewhere....
That makes sense. Have checked all the blade fuses under the dash and inside the hood and everything labled "ignition" is good.

When you say the "electric part of the ignition switch" is that a component inside the steering column behind the sleeve the key cylinder inserts? Would a new key lock cylinder alone solve an electrical issue?

Sorry for aiming questions, but I'm really stumped here.
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Old 06-23-2013, 01:16 PM   #5
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It is possible that the ignition switch comes as a complete unit ..I am not familiar with the chassis you have.....some vehicles have the actual switch part right on the back of the ignition cylinder.....others use a rod to activate the switch and it is further down the steering column under the dash. Im sorry I cant help more...I think the next step if all the fuses and fuse links are good is to track down the electrical end of the ignition switch and check it out.
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Old 06-23-2013, 01:18 PM   #6
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Just a wild guess but could it be a bad ground at the frame?
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Old 06-23-2013, 01:22 PM   #7
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Thanks for the replies. Found a harness attached to the back of the steering column with one of the plugs burned pretty bad. Came in to grab in the camera. Photo incoming....
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Old 06-23-2013, 01:28 PM   #8
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This is the burned connection I'm looking at. Going to attempt to clean it up, trace the wire behind the harness and try again. Any thoughts appreciated.

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Old 06-23-2013, 01:47 PM   #9
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Well, cleaned the post and harness up the best I could, reinstalled and still nothing. At a loss here.

Is there anyway to power the starter solenoid/starter motor directly with 12V so the RV can be driven rather than towed for service? Somehow circumvent the ignition just to get her running.

I'm at the end of my abilities with this issue.
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Old 06-23-2013, 01:47 PM   #10
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I'm sure you have the shift lever in Park or Neutral. (personal experience) Try wiggling the shifter while trying to start. With ignition on, check for voltage at engine. Hire a crook to hot wire it for you. There are many interlocks in most RVs to prevent starting in Drive, with jacks down, etc. Here's a link to your wiring diagram:

http://www.winnebagoind.com/diagram/2001/134888.pdf

Good luck!
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Old 06-23-2013, 05:16 PM   #11
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Have three service centers within 20 miles. Already in the system for a tow in the morning. The checkbook will get this sorted out.
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Old 06-23-2013, 08:00 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jmlarence View Post
This is the burned connection I'm looking at. Going to attempt to clean it up, trace the wire behind the harness and try again. Any thoughts appreciated.

This looks like a P-32 ignition switch , which is a common problem (on this forum) with the P-32 . you worked so hard to find the problem, it'd be a shame to pay big $ for some body to change that green ignition switch when you probably have found the problem.
I've changed mine once and also carry a spare.
Your title says W'22 Ignition problem but a Winne Brave 29A 2001 sounds like a P-32, but i could be wrong.
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Old 06-23-2013, 08:49 PM   #13
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Also , when you change the switch, do this mod so it does'nt burn up again soon.

Oemy's Web Site - DIY Projects
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Old 06-24-2013, 06:51 AM   #14
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OK - thank you! My RV is on a w22 chassis and I thought this was a P32 issue. Off to NAPA for part #ks6622 ECHLIN. Maybe this is my lucky day.
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