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Old 03-19-2013, 11:18 AM   #1
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W22 won't start

After arriving home from a trip to Moab, the engine was turned off in the drive way. A few minutes later, it would not crank. There is a little click, and the screen for the backup camera dims, but nothing else happens. The battery is ok and the connections are tight. Do I need a new starter? Where else can I look? Any help will be appreciated.
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Old 03-19-2013, 01:09 PM   #2
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Google "starter solenoid" and you should find information on how to bypass the solenoid to confirm if there is/isn't an issue with the starter. Solenoids are a lot cheaper, and easier to replace, so hopefully that's the issue.

On a side note, make sure your battery connections are free of corrosion and tight. Follow the cables from the battery posts themselves all the way to the other end (i.e. starter & ground). Bad cables can also be a culprit in your described problem.
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Old 03-19-2013, 02:01 PM   #3
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We checked voltage, cables and connections and then took the starter off and checked it and the solenoid and it all worked. So we put it all back together and it started right up.
Kinda strange, but it runs fine now.
Thanks for the suggestion about google. I'll remember that.
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Old 03-19-2013, 02:30 PM   #4
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Just removing starter, cabling than reconnecting cleaned up the high resistance connection you had, you can go through it again when it happens and use some di-electric grease and be better protected.
Had same problems after returning from FL. in Feb. one year after picking up wet salt off road surfaces.
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Old 03-21-2013, 12:30 PM   #5
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Sounds like a solenoid problem.

I suggest you carry a spare- see this old thread of mine.

I would change it out yesterday- If it was me.

It wouldn't be fun if your stopped in a gas station, topped off, and it wouldn't start.

Make sure you read post #17 on my old thread--- It's about special tools needed to do this job.

I carry two extra solenoid's with me now-
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Old 03-21-2013, 03:10 PM   #6
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You may have a bad section on the commutator in the starter. There are 4 brushes that complete an electrical connection across from each other. It one section is bad the starter could work until it happens to land on the bad one. Cranking the starter off the engine (no load) it might turn with the other set of brushes. At any rate, it will happen again. I bought a rebuilt starter and soleniod at NAPA for $146.00. If you decide to change it, take the old one apart to look at it. Just don't plan on putting it back togeather. Ask if they need the core assembled and don't lose your core credit.
This is from my experience.
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Old 03-25-2013, 06:20 AM   #7
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I posted this in response to a similar question on the Gulfstream forum. I think you solved the issue by cleaning and tightening the cable connections but this procedure will help troubleshoot so you know for sure if it ever happens again:

If you have a DMM, set it to DC Volts. Place one lead at the battery positive post, the other lead at the positive cable connection on the starter. Observe the voltage reading while cranking (or record it with the "min-max" feature if your DMM has it). This is called a voltage drop test, you should read less than 0.5V. If it's higher than that you have excessive resistance, it could be loose or corroded connectors or an internal problem in the cable. If the positive lead passes the test repeat on the negative post and the attachment point of the ground lead to the chassis. Again, you want to see less than 0.5V.

The voltage drop method is the best way to test a circuit with high current. Using a meter set to the Ohm scale and reading resistance doesn't tell you how the circuit performs under load.

Of course I would only go to the trouble of doing the voltage drop if I was sure my chassis battery was good.

I hope this helps.
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Old 03-25-2013, 10:12 AM   #8
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Just because the battery registers 12 volts does not necessarily mean it's still good. I would start by taking the battery somewhere to have it tested for load. Most auto parts stores will do this for you. Also, your alternator may not be charging properly and this would account for the battery not having enough juice to turn the engine over after a long trip.
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Old 03-25-2013, 04:06 PM   #9
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W22 Won't Start

Wow, you guys have given me a lot of good info. I think I will take the starter to a place in Salt Lake that will take it apart and check everything. Then I'll buy a spare solenoid. Just the thought of that thing plus the Suzuki stuck at a gas pump gives me nightmares.

Thanks to all of you for the help !
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Old 05-12-2013, 09:50 AM   #10
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I bought a new, in the box, Delco starter online, for $50 shipping included. Now I have it, and the old one for a spare.
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Old 05-12-2013, 10:41 AM   #11
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Lascar-

Would you please provide for us the "link" for your starter find. Sounds great!

Thanks,
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Old 05-13-2013, 10:40 AM   #12
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I bought the new starter from "we R surplus parts" an ebay store.
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Old 05-13-2013, 11:11 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Max Hubrich View Post
Sounds like a solenoid problem.

I suggest you carry a spare- see this old thread of mine.

I would change it out yesterday- If it was me.

It wouldn't be fun if your stopped in a gas station, topped off, and it wouldn't start.

Make sure you read post #17 on my old thread--- It's about special tools needed to do this job.

I carry two extra solenoid's with me now-
Hey Max, could you post the part numbers for those solenoids? It sounds like I should have a spare too.
Thanks.
I went out bought 2 sets of the female torx bits when you posted this before. I apologize if you already posted the part #s, I'm on the phone and researching is difficult with old eyes.
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Old 05-13-2013, 12:57 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by max49 View Post
Hey Max, could you post the part numbers for those solenoids? It sounds like I should have a spare too.
Thanks.
I went out bought 2 sets of the female torx bits when you posted this before. I apologize if you already posted the part #s, I'm on the phone and researching is difficult with old eyes.

Solenoid Part Numbers

You can get the torx socket set at Harbor Freight for under $10
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