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Old 04-26-2017, 12:42 PM   #1
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W24 electrical issues

Well been an interesting trip so far. Left coach (2005 Newman on w24 chassis) parked for a few days while visiting family in Raleigh. Only left fridge on propane and any other normal parasitic drains. Went to start up and engine battery dead. Used the house battery tie in switch and started right up. Drove to SAMs club for gas after running engine and generator, and engine started but somewhat slowly. Listened to DW and Tom it as a sign and bought a new battery in SAMs and stored it in toad just in case.
Left Raleigh headed for Nashville. Beside the awful rain as the day went on he battery seemed to be failing. Check engine light came on along with transmission not shifting correctly, and a few other oddities that I attributed to a battery shorting out or simply quoting. When we stopped short for the day near statesville I noticed that my auto park brake was not working correctly either.
After setting up I changed out the battery and engine was easy to start. By morning when. Started up check engine light resolved itself, transmission shifted well as always and mostly seemed fixed except for two issues that may or may not be related.
While entering our campground I had no turn signals working ( although 4 way flashers work). I also notice with coach running the daytime running lights are not working either
I checked the fuses listed for turn signal and appears ok. Does anyone have an idea if there is a power relay or breaker that would control both of these functions? Still on the road but have some limited tools and a voltmeter and could use some advice. Thanks in advance
Mike
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Old 04-28-2017, 01:10 AM   #2
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Mike,
The battery, the turn signals, and the DTR lights may all be separate issues.

Turn signals check all the bulbs in 4 corners, if one is burnt out, the blinker may not blink by design.

The DTR lights may not come on if the lights are in high beam. Not sure about that, but something to check.

Good luck,
Bill
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Old 04-28-2017, 05:06 AM   #3
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Thanks Bill. I will be back home in a few days and will dig into the problem. The new battery I installed on the fly seemed to fix most of the issues. When I can I want to check the flashers ( I know there are two under the dash that I may be able to swap out ( I would assume one is for turn signals and one for four way flashers). Hadn't thought of checking all 4 corner bulbs to see if one could be the problem. I'll check that too. Online research shows lots of people had to change out the switch in the steering column. Hope it's not that bad
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Old 04-30-2017, 08:29 AM   #4
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Update. Fixed

Well an update for anyone that might have this issue in the future. As I previously posted the new engine battery cured most of the engine and transmission issues I was having ( took a little while for all the computer modules to be happy with each other). Upon arriving home last night saw the DAytime Running Lights icon now lit on the dash and they seem to be working again
Checked that they were the same and swapped the flashers ( two one for 4 ways and one for turn signals) no turn signals still
Went back and rechecked fuse ( in panel on dash) and using a meter ( I worked as an electronic tech for years-know better) saw that fuse was NG ( even though it didn't look blown) DOH !
Headed out for a couple hopefully uneventful days.
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Old 04-30-2017, 10:15 AM   #5
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Thank you for the update they are important for those who may do a search of the subject in the future.
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Old 04-30-2017, 04:27 PM   #6
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Surprised you had such issues when driving with a weak battery, I would have thought the alternator would have provided enough power to cover. My battery is fine right now but I plan to replace simply based on age, especially after reading your post.
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Old 04-30-2017, 04:50 PM   #7
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Vettenuts. True it surprised me somewhat also but have seen some strange troubles before when batteries start to go bad and have a cell or two die out or short. I only had a voltmeter and it showed 13.5 volts when I took it out, but I suspect a load test would show it dropping off sharply from there.
One other thing I learned today that might help you or several of the other guys I know on here who have the same coach. The 15a fuse I changed ( marked TURN-BU ) also controls or has an effect of back up lamps and the dreaded auto park. I hadn't realized that putting the selector in P was not engaging the auto park brake ( the manual button on the dash still worked) now when shifting out of PARK, I can hear the pump run like I should
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Old 04-30-2017, 06:19 PM   #8
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That's good information to know on the parking brake.
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Old 05-02-2017, 10:06 PM   #9
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As I read thru this thread I was expecting to see a post stating the new battery went dead and you needed an alternator..... I really thought you had a bad alternator. Guess not. Good for you. Have you checked the alternator output just for grins? Always good to check out the integrity of the charging system when replacing a failed battery.
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Old 05-04-2017, 05:04 AM   #10
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Thanks

Yes HarleyJT I have been fooled before on the alternator thing. When I first started up the coach with the bad battery I looked at the voltmeter over the door and saw 14 some odd volts, so I pretty much assumed the alternator to be ok. I just had this issue with my pickup at home. It would charge up fine, but if I let it sit for a week it was slow to start.Worth the 100 or so bucks for peace of mind
Returned home yesterday and everything working as well as before. I made some good mental notes and hope this might help somebody else down the road.

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Old 05-05-2017, 04:32 AM   #11
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Had a car that all showed fine many years ago but the battery was going dead. No current drain through the wiring either. Took a while to figure out but a cell had shorted through the bottom of the case and was draining the battery. Just another experience to squirrel away for future reference.
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