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11-26-2008, 01:17 PM
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#1
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Maplewood, MN, USA
Posts: 204
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Subject says it, what size wrench to remove oil drain plug? 9/16 too small, 5/8 to big, and could not find metric to fit. Used a 5/8 six sided and it worked, but it was a sloppy fit.
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Bruce and Dyanne
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11-26-2008, 01:17 PM
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#2
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Maplewood, MN, USA
Posts: 204
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Subject says it, what size wrench to remove oil drain plug? 9/16 too small, 5/8 to big, and could not find metric to fit. Used a 5/8 six sided and it worked, but it was a sloppy fit.
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Bruce and Dyanne
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11-26-2008, 01:34 PM
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#3
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Senior Member
Workhorse Chassis Owner
Join Date: Jun 2006
Posts: 1,902
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Might try a 15MM. A 14mm which is really close to 9/16 works on my 2003 8.1. Make sure you don't have any burrs on the plug that might prevent wrench or socket from going on.
Dieselclacker
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Dieselclacker
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11-26-2008, 01:37 PM
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#4
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Senior Member
Workhorse Chassis Owner Texas Boomers Club
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: McKinney, Texas
Posts: 515
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Most all late model (1996 and up) GM engines
use a 15mm hex head on the oil drain plug.
Glenn
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2004 Safari 31SBD TREK W-20
McKinney, Texas
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11-26-2008, 09:04 PM
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#5
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Senior Member
Triple E Owners Club
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Williams Lake,BC Canada
Posts: 729
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15mm it is.
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2007 Empress Elite - Freightliner
WH 22 owner for 7 years
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11-27-2008, 12:40 PM
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#6
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Senior Member
Workhorse Chassis Owner
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Pikeville, NC
Posts: 1,412
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Mine is a 15mm or, if you can find one, 19/32".
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Max H,
2002 Newmar Mountain Aire, 37', 3778, W-22, 8.1 Vortac, Ultra Power upgrade, CAI (cold air intake), Taylor wires, colder plugs, Koni shocks.
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11-27-2008, 03:03 PM
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#7
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Senior Member
Appalachian Campers Coastal Campers
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Conway, SC
Posts: 528
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15mm it is. If you are going to change, better take a short extension bar under with you to help loosen the plug. They can get very tight if the last person used extra effort to tightened the plug
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2004 Winnebago Brave, 32V, P32, Ultra-Trac, Rear Trac-Bar, Steer-Safe, Blue Ox Apollo
2004 S-10 Blazer
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11-27-2008, 03:10 PM
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#8
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iRV2 Marketing
Winnebago Owners Club Workhorse Chassis Owner Coastal Campers Carolina Campers
Join Date: Jan 2000
Location: Conway, SC
Posts: 20,566
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<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by depchief:
They can get very tight if the last person used extra effort to tightened the plug </div></BLOCKQUOTE>Now want a minit' I resemble that remark!
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03 Adventurer 38G, Workhorse W22
F&R Track Bars, Safety+ , Ultrapower, Allison UP Grade Brake, S&B CAI, Taylor Extremes, SGII-X Gauge
TST 507, Blue Ox, SMI, Koni FSD, CrossFire
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11-27-2008, 05:24 PM
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#9
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Senior Member
Workhorse Chassis Owner Winnebago Owners Club
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Way down yonder, below New Orleans
Posts: 3,958
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I think I detect a pattern emerging here. I'm remembering an episode involving an oil filter a while back?  ED
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Itasca SC 2010 37F on W-24 WB248" stock + plug wires vent kit added.
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11-28-2008, 12:33 PM
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#10
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Member
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Mesa, AZ
Posts: 61
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I have a sad Oil Change tail for you all.
In 1981 I purchased a 24' Class "C" Lindy rig on a Chevy base.
After the first run, I decided to change the break-in oil and do as the manual suggested. But, being a real handy sort (back in those days) I opted to do it myself.
Draining wasn't a problem but I had problems taking the oil filter off. I even enlisted my super-mechanic next door neighbor.
To make the long, sad story short, we/he ended up breaking the seal mating surface and it would not hold oil. That surface was machined into the block. I towed it to the selling dealer and they just said TS customer...replace the block.
Needless to say that was not acceptable but their head honcho mechanic (a fellow that couldn't come clean if submerged in de-greaser for 6 months) said he had an idea.
I left my poor ol' baby in his hands and waited.
The next day, he called and said, "Come get it!" He had used an epoxy material and molded it to replace the metal knocked out. (the piece measured about 1 1/2 inches by 1", curved)
It sealed like a champ and when I sold it to a friend 4 years later (w/80,000 miles) he kept it for at least 5-6 years and never lost a drop of oil!
It turned out the reason the filter was so hard to get off was that the rig was stored near salt water and the threads had NEVER been oiled. The filter had rusted into place and even when we sectioned it and looked at a cross section under a very good, lab quality microscope, you couldn't tell where the block began and the filter threads began.
Last I saw of the rig it was suffering from dry/wet rot and lack of use.
As to the miles when I sold it, I should point out, I rented it through an agency.
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