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Old 11-26-2014, 08:40 AM   #1
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What to disconnect when lowering a fuel tank

I'm thinking of lowering my gas tank in the future. Besides a steel reinforcement brace between the rear jacks and beneath the tank, my rubber gas filler tube seems to be sprayed with a hardening agent that makes the rubber as hard as a rock. It's several feet long as the filler is in the rear of the motor home. I presume I have to remove this and the vent tube from the tank. Has anyone had experience with this? What did you do? Thanks!
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Old 11-26-2014, 08:50 AM   #2
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It is doable....have a look at this youtube video
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Old 11-26-2014, 08:23 PM   #3
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When I did it on my 02 Flair on a p32 chassis, I only tilted the tank. The straps will kinda hold it up on one side. I had about 10 gallons in it, I used 2 floor jacks and 2 friends. Make sure you have a fuel line tool to get the lines off. Don,t forget to disconnect your generator fuel line too.

Recommend you change the rubber fuel line to the generator while you have it down. There is a 90 elbow with a short rubber hose connecting the generator fuel line, it will dry rot over time. Change it while you have the tank down. I replaced my entire generator fuel line with aircraft (cloth covered) fuel line.
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Old 11-27-2014, 05:20 AM   #4
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Thanks Gocoffeer! Good one. I also looked at a couple other utube videos on similar installs based on your referral. Thanks again!
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Old 11-27-2014, 05:24 AM   #5
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Originally Posted by mgscott4 View Post
When I did it on my 02 Flair on a p32 chassis, I only tilted the tank. The straps will kinda hold it up on one side. I had about 10 gallons in it, I used 2 floor jacks and 2 friends. Make sure you have a fuel line tool to get the lines off. Don,t forget to disconnect your generator fuel line too.

Recommend you change the rubber fuel line to the generator while you have it down. There is a 90 elbow with a short rubber hose connecting the generator fuel line, it will dry rot over time. Change it while you have the tank down. I replaced my entire generator fuel line with aircraft (cloth covered) fuel line.
Good post, mgscott4. Thanks for that. Did you tilt the tank down on one side, or back to front? Also, is the fuel line tool one that you insert over the fuel line and then push in to release retention springs? Thanks again!
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Old 11-27-2014, 08:37 PM   #6
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P32 workhorse chassis. The filler and vent tubes had the hose clamp screws on top and were not accessible from the bottom.
I cut the filler and vent tubes with a very long sharp knife close to the metal stubs coming out of the tank. There was enough extra tubes left for later reconnection.
Placed four small pulleys with ropes at each corner and lowered the empty tank onto my crawler with all leveling jacks at maximum extension. Could not undo the fuel lines so I cut the fuel pump nipples with a hack saw. Overall a most arduous task, I hated it.
Since then, the replaced fuel pump failed again presumably from tank debris that went past the input filter stocking, so I installed an external fuel pump with a normal fuel filter before and after the pump to protect the pump impeller. At 130,000 miles now and the external fuel pump works great. I can now replace the fuel pump in a half hour or less, anytime, anywhere. I do carry a spare fuel pump.
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Old 11-29-2014, 06:42 PM   #7
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P32 workhorse chassis. The filler and vent tubes had the hose clamp screws on top and were not accessible from the bottom.
I cut the filler and vent tubes with a very long sharp knife close to the metal stubs coming out of the tank. There was enough extra tubes left for later reconnection.
Placed four small pulleys with ropes at each corner and lowered the empty tank onto my crawler with all leveling jacks at maximum extension. Could not undo the fuel lines so I cut the fuel pump nipples with a hack saw. Overall a most arduous task, I hated it.
Since then, the replaced fuel pump failed again presumably from tank debris that went past the input filter stocking, so I installed an external fuel pump with a normal fuel filter before and after the pump to protect the pump impeller. At 130,000 miles now and the external fuel pump works great. I can now replace the fuel pump in a half hour or less, anytime, anywhere. I do carry a spare fuel pump.
Yes, good idea. I received a new Delphi fuel pump today but have to send it back because it arrived with the canister cracked. I have had experience with the hose clamp screw heads being located on the top too.
I have spent a little time cussing at the Workhorse installer for putting them where no one can reach them as well. I don't expect to enjoy this job either. I need to check the pressure regulator to see if I can get the pressure up to spec before doing the job. If I can fix it that way, I'll carry the extra pump like you do. I might put in an inline pump, but some of them make a lot of noise. I think you commented on that earlier.
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Old 12-05-2014, 08:10 PM   #8
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The external fuel pump whines, but is not audible inside the coach.
The best to you.
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Old 12-07-2014, 10:22 PM   #9
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Don't forget to relieve the pressure in the lines, or fuel will spray everywhere. There is an access port on the engine injector rail. Hook up a fuel pressure gauge and release the pressure there into a container.I just did the pump in my Wife's Hummer and it wasn't bad, except for the quick connect fitting for the evap hose. After damaging it getting it out (I thought I had all the tools, but not one for a 5/8 Line) I looked everywhere for the fitting. The GM dealer could only suggest I buy a new tank for $1,000. Thankfully, after numerous parts houses, I met a shade tree mechanic that could think outside the box(or computer). Two zip ties worked great and a better lock than the quick connect fitting. Make sure you have the right tool as mentioned above and save yourself the grief that I had.
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Old 12-09-2014, 03:46 AM   #10
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Don't forget to relieve the pressure in the lines, or fuel will spray everywhere. There is an access port on the engine injector rail. Hook up a fuel pressure gauge and release the pressure there into a container.I just did the pump in my Wife's Hummer and it wasn't bad, except for the quick connect fitting for the evap hose. After damaging it getting it out (I thought I had all the tools, but not one for a 5/8 Line) I looked everywhere for the fitting. The GM dealer could only suggest I buy a new tank for $1,000. Thankfully, after numerous parts houses, I met a shade tree mechanic that could think outside the box(or computer). Two zip ties worked great and a better lock than the quick connect fitting. Make sure you have the right tool as mentioned above and save yourself the grief that I had.
Good input. You are correct about relieving the pressure. I once had the experience of changing a fuel filter at the side of the road and ended up with a face full of hot gasoline. I also just bought a couple tools on eBay that should remove the "quick" disconnect fittings.
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Old 12-18-2014, 06:19 AM   #11
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I tilted the drivers side down.. By tilting it, the straps were helping to holding up one side. I had to seal the fill port on the side of the tank first. I think I used a can the correct diameter and a short piece of filler hose and 2 clamps. You want seal up the tank just in case, before you lower it. Clean off the dirt around the opening before you open it. You should use a brass drift to eliminate the possibility of sparks when turning the retaining ring. I have also heard of rubber tipped tools used too. Don,t loose the O ring.

My lines just had squeeze tabs that were easy to squeeze (top and bottom) and get the lines off. Great idea, I could see how a tie wrap would squeeze the tabs to allow you to slide it off. They push and click back on.
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Old 12-18-2014, 12:57 PM   #12
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Thank you for the advice. I think I now have a pretty clear idea of how to do this job. I hadn't thought of sealing the filler neck to keep any remaining the gas inside.
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Old 12-23-2014, 03:23 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by garyspang View Post
P32 workhorse chassis - I installed an external fuel pump with a normal fuel filter before and after the pump to protect the pump impeller. At 130,000 miles now and the external fuel pump works great. I can now replace the fuel pump in a half hour or less, anytime, anywhere. I do carry a spare fuel pump.
This seems like a good idea and worth knowing about. Would you summarize how/where you installed the external fuel pump? And what pump/filters did you use?
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Old 12-26-2014, 07:03 PM   #14
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Hi Tomwalt, this is a copy of an earlier posting in reply to Aldev's request that was similar to yours:


Well, I crawled under the MH and took pictures. You owe me a coffee. The Jegs.com order number is 555-159001 and it cost me $151.99. You still need a long length of fuel tubing with O-ring end fitting, a length of fuel hose, two fuel filters, Fuel filter fitting with barb, hose clamps etc. I don't remember all the detailed parts, since the pump was installed in March of this year.
The entire installation is protected by a shiny aluminum heat shield. It is placed in the same area as the fuel filter location inside the frame channel beam. The red wire is spliced to the fuel pump wiring and the fuse was increased by 10 amperes. A fuel filter is used on the pump inlet and outlet. This protects the extremely close tolerance gear pump mechanism from abrasive particles and keeps out any pump particles from the pressure regulator and the microscopic hole of the injectors. The old pump was kept alive to aid in inlet delivery and reduce the possibility of vapor lock on the inlet side of the new fuel pump. Fuel hose was only used on the low pressure or inlet side. Solid steel fuel line withO-ring fitting to match the outlet filter was used on the outlet or high pressure side.
I now carry a spare fuel pump and with simple hand tools can replace it in about a half hour anywhere.
Because of the explosive nature of gasoline I must warn you not to do this unless you can make it a safe and professional installation. Jury rigging will fail and burn down your Motor Home in case of any fuel leakage.
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