Wheel Alignment

[rvskipper]

In my quest to solve my steering problems,I am looking at front-end wheel alignment. Workhorse states it is recommend to have the alignment check after the vehicle is loaded for normal travel. It has also been recommend to get a before and after computer printout. The spec for my W series chassis: caster not adjustable. Camber not adjustable.
Toe .06+/-.02 degrees .03+/-.01 inches and side-to-side tolerance equal. So what is it that I am looking for on the computer printout? It almost sounds like a guy could eyeball the wheels straight down the road and be good to go. I'm lost!

[rvskipper]

In my quest to solve my steering problems,I am looking at front-end wheel alignment. Workhorse states it is recommend to have the alignment check after the vehicle is loaded for normal travel. It has also been recommend to get a before and after computer printout. The spec for my W series chassis: caster not adjustable. Camber not adjustable.
Toe .06+/-.02 degrees .03+/-.01 inches and side-to-side tolerance equal. So what is it that I am looking for on the computer printout? It almost sounds like a guy could eyeball the wheels straight down the road and be good to go. I'm lost!

[DriVer]

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by rvskipper:
I'm lost! </div></BLOCKQUOTE>Don't sweat it. Go equipped with those settings to a reliable shop that can provide you with the documentation. Ask the tech there to explain the current settings and the after alignment improvement. They should be able to show you where the improvement is if any was applied. Doing the math since you already have the settings is easy at any rate. Find out how close you are to the recommended settings and you will know how well the procedure was applied. The closer the better.

[Teach]

I've gone the whole alignment process, twice, and still have the constant steering problem. Had corners weighed, tire pressure set and eyes checked. I guess now I will have to start adding aftermarket products to address the problem. Local service center has recommended IPD sway bars.

[Steady Eddie]

"I'm lost!"



rvskipper---

Our P12 Chassis has the same "built-in" caster
and camber settings, supposedly unchangable.
Of the three alignment base settings it is the addition of caster that has the most to do with
straight line tracking, and, probably, the
alignment shop will check the caster but not
change it, because, sure enough, it'll fall within specs. If you look under your Chassis,
are there caster wedges between the leaf springs and the axle?

I had to argue like crazy (when we had a P-32
Chassis) to get the alignment tech to dial-in
+2-degrees more caster so it would go straight
and not wander.

[DriVer]

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by Teach:
Local service center has recommended IPD sway bars. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>Your local, friendly, neighborhood RV website, recommends you consider track bar, steering damper and shock absorber upgrade technology. (one at a time) (rear track bar first)

We've been there and done that and it works. Numerous testimonials here will go with what I just wrote and we'll guide you through the process. I just want to make sure that the alignments services that you've received fall exactly within the Workhorse specifications.

[Teach]

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by DriVer:
Your local, friendly, neighborhood RV website, recommends you consider track bar, steering damper and shock absorber upgrade technology. (one at a time) (rear track bar first) </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

I've already upgraded the shocks to Koni FSD. They helped the ride but not the steering.

[DriVer]

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by Teach: </div></BLOCKQUOTE>
<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by DriVer:
Your local, friendly, neighborhood RV website, recommends you consider track bar, (rear track bar first) </div></BLOCKQUOTE>There ya go.

Henderson's Lineup

The suspicious looking guy with smile and sunglasses in the front of the back row is Robert Henderson. I have been very pleased to do business with Henderson's in the past. You can get the SS302 right from them or you can get one from Camping World.

I'm sure that you will be pleased with the Henderson Super-Steer Track Bar. When I first pulled out of the yard where I installed the track bar and hit my first turn, I knew immediately that this upgrade was going to be a winner.

[Logthumper]

The W22 uses the solid front axle. Not so many moveing parts as is found with Independent Front Suspensions. Only real issue is "Toe-In". The Draglink keeps this type of supension very honest. My opinion, the closer to "0" Toe-In the better. I set my "Toe-In" to about the thickness of a lead pencil line. My W22 now drives down the road like it needs no help from me. Could not be any better. I have added other items to the suspension (I just enjoy makeing it mine).

See pics below

[alvinc]

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by DriVer:
<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by Teach:
Local service center has recommended IPD sway bars. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>Your local, friendly, neighborhood RV website, recommends you consider track bar, steering damper and shock absorber upgrade technology. (one at a time) (rear track bar first)

We've been there and done that and it works. Numerous testimonials here will go with what I just wrote and we'll guide you through the process. I just want to make sure that the alignments services that you've received fall exactly within the Workhorse specifications. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>While DriVer and I might disagree on whether to add the front or rear track bar first, I hope we both agree that a track bar will help steering issues more than an anti-sway bar.

My suggestions for deciding on whether to do the front or rear track bar first; Do you have the steering issue both when towing and not? If so, do the front bar first, otherwise the rear bar. Some people have done both.

I have so far been satisfied with just the front, since my coach did not handle differently when towing. It does beg the question though, would I improve the handling an additional amount by adding the rear track bar?

[rcwalther]

After I had front wheels aligned, the shop owner said the toe went from 3/8" toe OUT to 1/32" toe IN where it should have been. Drove much better.

Richard

[BellaBo]

RVSkipper....
I had a serious steering problem too. After putting new Monroes on it and having the alignment done by a great shop here in Florida it still handled bad. Gulf Stream and Workhorse finally agreed to adjust the "caster". Once that was done by the same shop here, it drove 100% better. I was prepared to do all the mods if it didn't work but I am very happy with it now. It's a 2004 W-22 with a coach much heavier than yours.
Good Luck!