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Arch Hoagland · 04-28-2015, 09:26 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by davidl340

If you don't mind me asking, what was the bill? Did they break out how much the manifold cost?

12557283 EXHAUST MANIFOLD LF 1050.25
FREIGHT 25.00
12558275 EXHAUST GASKET 39.50

11514596 NUT $8 8 64.00
11609953 STUDS $12 8 96.00

LABOR REMOVE 4 BROKEN STUDS 294.00
R&R MANIFOLD 393.00
PULL BOTH VALVE COVERS LOOKING
FOR BENT ROD OR BROKEN SPRING 147.00

TOTAL WITH TAX, FEES 2197.38

The engine sounded like it was in bad shape when you first started it, like a rod was knocking but would clear up as it warmed up. Sounds and runs great now.

whem2fish · 04-29-2015, 05:27 AM

Wow if you were closer I would machine them for free same day

davidl340 · 04-29-2015, 06:37 AM

Thanks whem2fish, guess I'm paying the price for living in a somewhat rural location.

Thanks Arch Hoagland for the price, I figured it was about $1000 just for the manifold.

I dropped the manifold off yesterday, hopefully will know if they can machine it by the weekend. If they can't and they don't mess it up, it is going on as is (they made it a bit better on the first attempt at milling) with a new gasket and a thin layer of high temp RTV. Then I'll start preparing myself for ordering some new headers if/when it fails.

The bad part is the drivers side has a heat shield welded to the frame which I will have to grind off if I am going to replace that side too w/headers. Not to mention the possibility of breaking studs off; hard to do when it isn't leaking.

JCM · 04-29-2015, 07:57 AM

I can't give you a breakdown of the prices for labor and parts now. Just a point of interest - in 2003 GM outsourced their oil pump extensions and they were over tempered and have a tendency to shear off the "dog ears". If you are working on the engine it might be a good idea to pull the oil pump extension and have a look at it.

davidl340 · 04-29-2015, 08:01 AM

JCM: wow, I'm guess I'd have to drop the oil pan for that one. May just let it ride. Or perhaps get the exhaust fixed and sell it and get a Diesel, ha! JK.

whem2fish · 04-29-2015, 08:23 AM

No prob I would put it on our Lapmaster I'm a jet engine machinist

Arch Hoagland · 04-29-2015, 09:28 AM

David....They told me they had a heck of a time getting the broken studs out and didn't actually charge me all the hours of labor that it took.

When I had the problem at 20,000 miles the dealer actually drilled through the waterjacket on the head and they had to replace the head too but that was all covered by warranty then.

So be careful my friend.

davidl340 · 04-29-2015, 09:32 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Arch Hoagland

David....They told me they had a heck of a time getting the broken studs out and didn't actually charge me all the hours of labor that it took.

When I had the problem at 20,000 miles the dealer actually drilled through the waterjacket on the head and they had to replace the head too but that was all covered by warranty then.

So be careful my friend.

Ya, I have 13000 miles and it is a shame this is so common. I'll get it sorted out. If I have to take a head off though to get the drivers side done due to being too cheap to buy a $1000 manifold, I'm NOT going to be happy camper. ha

JCM · 04-29-2015, 09:43 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by davidl340

JCM: wow, I'm guess I'd have to drop the oil pan for that one. May just let it ride. Or perhaps get the exhaust fixed and sell it and get a Diesel, ha! JK.

The oil pump comes out through the top of the motor - at the back. It is
easy to get at and check.

Arch Hoagland · 04-29-2015, 09:43 AM

I'm going to go in to the Workhorse dealer about once a year and have the bolts checked and tightened just for the heck of it.

M&EM · 04-29-2015, 01:31 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JCM

The oil pump comes out through the top of the motor - at the back. It is
easy to get at and check.

Sorry,

That is an EGR valve sticking up at the back of the engine.

The oil pan has to come off to get to the oil pump!!

davidl340 · 05-01-2015, 09:15 PM

Good to have friends with connections. Buddy of mine works a place that had the right equipment. Got it surfaced and I installed it today. I haven't take it for a test drive yet, but I'm hopeful. One day I hope I'm wealthy enough to blow $1000 on a manifold and it doesn't bother me, but till then I'll give this a try first.

Arch Hoagland · 05-02-2015, 12:06 AM

Keep us posted.

JimAerbus,W22,2003 · 05-02-2015, 11:13 AM

Biggest reason for exhaust manifold warping is shutting off the engine and not allowing it to cool down the manifolds. LET IT IDLE FOR A COUPLE OF MINUTES! I see this all the time. Somebody pulls into a rest area after pulling a hill, or has been running for a couple of hours, and then just turns it off?? Learned the hard way when I had a 454 in a 95 MH. Let it cool off and check the manifold bolts, they have a very LOW torque (10/15 lbs.), something like that and are prone to becoming loose.
Bolts get a little loose and manifold is red hot and head temp is different, and something has to give, which in this scenario, its usually the manifold..