WHSC, RV Dealer or DIY

[oemtech]

I just spend the last couple of days doing some rig maintenance. I changed the oil, filter, greased it, flushed the radiator, bleed the brakes, and changed the fuel filter. I sat down to figure my costs and begin to wonder what these same services would cost if you had it done at a Workhorse Service Center or a RV dealer. So I called the local WHSC (big Chevy dealer) for an estimate. Here is what I got back.

Oil/Filter/Grease
7 qts Mobil 1, Std filter. grease
WHSC - $160.75 DIY - $41.29

Fuel Filter
WHSC - $117.45 DIY - $14.60

Drain & Flush Radiator
WHSC - $152.63 DIY - $21.84

Bleed Brakes
WHSC - $209.42 DIY - $15.23

Check Front Wheel Fluid
WHSC - ? DIY - $0

Check Differential Fluid
WNSC - ? DIY - $0

Change Transmission Filter & Fluid
WHSC - ? DIY - $95

Check A/C
WhSC - ? DIY - $25


There are a few things to consider.

1) Over 50% of the WHSC cost is labor. The charge $99 per hour.
2) DIY has no labor, only parts. Not sure how to put a $ value on my labor to add to the bill.
3) I have a fair amount of money in tools. But, I have had most of them for years. Again, how do you put a $ value on them when figuring the bill.
4) The fuel filter was on back order, not a surprise. MY DIY allows me to get a filter at the local parts store.
5) Earliest appointment 2 weeks away and I must leave it for a least a day. Hard to do when you fulltime.
6) WHSC is 30 miles away and the nearest RV dealer that has the facilities is 50+ miles away.


I did not receive an estimate from the RV dealer. But, their labor rate was $105 a hour.

Update:
I finally got a return call from the RV dealer and they did not break down the labor/parts. They also kinda lumped all of the service together and came up with a number that was $50 more than WHSC.

Are the labor rates out of line? You might think so until you look at the facility and the tech doing the work. The cost of keeping a facility open, cost of insurance, cost of stocking product, the salaries and few other items it may be right inline.

If I were to add $75 an hour for my labor and add it to the cost of parts the total comes $467.96.

One last item... I got my Syn Oil on sale at Advanced Auto on a buy 1 get 1. So, I bought 14 qts that is normally $5.79 a qt.

[oemtech]

I just spend the last couple of days doing some rig maintenance. I changed the oil, filter, greased it, flushed the radiator, bleed the brakes, and changed the fuel filter. I sat down to figure my costs and begin to wonder what these same services would cost if you had it done at a Workhorse Service Center or a RV dealer. So I called the local WHSC (big Chevy dealer) for an estimate. Here is what I got back.

Oil/Filter/Grease
7 qts Mobil 1, Std filter. grease
WHSC - $160.75 DIY - $41.29

Fuel Filter
WHSC - $117.45 DIY - $14.60

Drain & Flush Radiator
WHSC - $152.63 DIY - $21.84

Bleed Brakes
WHSC - $209.42 DIY - $15.23

Check Front Wheel Fluid
WHSC - ? DIY - $0

Check Differential Fluid
WNSC - ? DIY - $0

Change Transmission Filter & Fluid
WHSC - ? DIY - $95

Check A/C
WhSC - ? DIY - $25


There are a few things to consider.

1) Over 50% of the WHSC cost is labor. The charge $99 per hour.
2) DIY has no labor, only parts. Not sure how to put a $ value on my labor to add to the bill.
3) I have a fair amount of money in tools. But, I have had most of them for years. Again, how do you put a $ value on them when figuring the bill.
4) The fuel filter was on back order, not a surprise. MY DIY allows me to get a filter at the local parts store.
5) Earliest appointment 2 weeks away and I must leave it for a least a day. Hard to do when you fulltime.
6) WHSC is 30 miles away and the nearest RV dealer that has the facilities is 50+ miles away.


I did not receive an estimate from the RV dealer. But, their labor rate was $105 a hour.

Update:
I finally got a return call from the RV dealer and they did not break down the labor/parts. They also kinda lumped all of the service together and came up with a number that was $50 more than WHSC.

Are the labor rates out of line? You might think so until you look at the facility and the tech doing the work. The cost of keeping a facility open, cost of insurance, cost of stocking product, the salaries and few other items it may be right inline.

If I were to add $75 an hour for my labor and add it to the cost of parts the total comes $467.96.

One last item... I got my Syn Oil on sale at Advanced Auto on a buy 1 get 1. So, I bought 14 qts that is normally $5.79 a qt.

[paz]

Oemtech, interesting comparison. Everyone knows you can save money if you have the tools, ability, and time to do it yourself; but I had no idea some of the items were that much higher. I used to do as much of my own maintenance and repair as I could before we went full-time; but now because of campground rules against working on vehicles, oil disposal problems, etc., I usually have to rely on someone else to do my work.

I see you did a comparison on fuel filters. Do I understand correctly that the WCC fuel filter is STILL on back order? There was a thread some time ago about WCC parts in general that turned into a discussion about the $58 fuel filter. DriVer told us the old supplier was out of business and a new supplier was getting up to speed on a lower price filter. Over 2 months ago on March 17, 2007, DriVer posted "A new fuel filter producer is begining to fill back orders and the filter should be widely available in a short period of time." Is this new filter still unavailable, or did that dealer just happen to be out of them?

[oemtech]

PAZ,

The WHSC person said that they did not have a fuel filter in stock. I didn't ask if they were on back order, I just assumed they were.

[eandy]

Hi Omey, Been a while.
I'll gag forever on these rv shop labor rates. It's one thing if real "tech knowledge" is called for but oil changes and other no brainer work at those rates is just too high. I did my first oil change and some other minor things at a campground w/o complaints and didn't feel guilty about minor cheat on "no repair work".

Recently had my HWH repaired at Meyers RV in Abq. 16 hrs charged to replace pair of solenoids on slider on one side. I'd already located defectives and showed service writer which they were. I'll save the rest for a later post when the dust settles.

The short of that is the diagnostics claimed to be required often run up huge charges and shock the owner. What I've learned from it is to demand the shop do exactly what I say. If that fails to fix the problem we'll agree to more or not.

My shock was that my extended warranty doesn't cover diagnostics. Not previously known! Fortunately the engine and tranny are still under mfg care. Anything else is coach work and any decent electrician or plumber can fix at much less than rv shop rates.

[John-D]

Years ago there was a song: My Mamma Told Me: To do the Shop Around.

And I'm suggesting you do the same.

Due to a recall I choose to have the WHSC nearest me do my last oil change (Last Monday) and take care of the recall while they were at it.

Lub, Oil (Quaker State Full Synthetic) and Filter, $99.00. Recall: One free phone call and a nice chat with the Workhorse national service manager. (A pleasure)

(Dealer said it would take them over 2 weeks to get the standard chevy part they likely have a couple of dozen of in stock, I called Alan, he Delivered, that very evening, what can I say, I'm on his way home (Actually I said THANKS, and am now doing so publicly That is good customer service)

Anyway, my cost was only 99 even for the job. Last year it was, IIRC 65

[FrontRangeRVer]

I do my own oil changes on our motorhome...Mobil 1, Oil filter, lube, and my costs are in line with OEMTECH's....about $40

My other 4 cars oil changes are done at Grease Monkey...too hard to get under!!

[al koffman]

I'm a little confused. What kind of fuel filter did you get for $14.60, and where? Sounds like the price for a 03 chassis with the two lines. Is it a 2 line or 3 line filter that is used on the 04 and up chassis?

[oemtech]

Al,

I did the "Husky Jack" mod to the fuel filter adapter. So, I can use the 03 style fuel filter. You can by a Fram version in Wal Mart for about $10 or even buy a house brand at the local auto parts for about $6. I chose a Wix brand and paid a couple $ more.

[troth]

Oemy, I want to do a complete brake fluid flush on mine. Any tips/hints? Did you use a pressure bleeder on the master? Any particular sequence (wheel-wise)? Any cautions?

Best Regards,

Tom

[oemtech]

I can only speak for myself...

1) Unless you have a professional pressure bleeder I would not use one. The cheap ones do not have any separation between the air pressure and the fluid. IE - you are injecting air into fluid as you bleed the brakes.
1a) I use a vacuum bleeder like Mighty Vac or equivalent.
1b) You can do it the old fashion way with 2 people. One pumps the brake, hold it, the other opens the bleeder valve and closes it when the peddle goes to the floor. Repeat as necessary until you get clear fluid.
2) Remove as much of the old fluid as possible.
3) Use a good quality DOT 3 fluid. Check the wet/dry boiling points.
4) Bleed the longest run first. Usually the passengers side rear. Then drivers side rear, passengers side front and last drivers side front.
5) Always top off the master cylinder with fluid after each wheel is done.


There is not real advantage to DOT 4 fluid. It has a higher boiling point than DOT 3 but degrades faster when it absorbs water. There are some DOT 3 brands that have specs close to DOT 4 and are only about $4.50 qt.

Don't even think about DOT 5 unless you are a racer. DOT 5 is silicone based and does not mix with any of the others.

Lastly - ALL brake fluid is synthetic.

[edgray]

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">DOT 5 is silicone based and does not mix with any of the others </div></BLOCKQUOTE>
DALE: Nice job on the instructions. I want to also add :

NEVER use DOT 5 fluid in any brake system that has Antilocking (ABS) brakes. It WILL cause damage. ED

[eandy]

To add to my comment; I've learned to ask repair shop if they have worked on the brand of equipment that needs service before. If they say no I pass on them. Not interested in paying someone's learning time.

[troth]

Thanks for the tips guys!!!