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Old 11-13-2016, 10:30 PM   #15
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I don't recall the size Fumoto drain valve.
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Old 11-13-2016, 11:08 PM   #16
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Fumoto oil valve is F107N this is the one with the nipple so you can attach a hose if you want to.

FumotoŽ USA | Quick and Easy Engine Oil Drain Valves

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Old 11-13-2016, 11:25 PM   #17
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I've always done my own oil changes, even on the last two DP's as they're just as easy to do as a gas unit. Not sure that I'll continue with the present unit, not that it's any harder but what do I do with 14 gallons of oil?
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Old 11-14-2016, 08:17 AM   #18
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Strange thing I found.
I drive a gasser
Oil change at a truck stop: You hit the price range
Oil change at CW 99 bucks and they screw it up (Wrong oil)
Oil change at Authorized Workhorse Service Center Chevy Dealer using Synthetic oil (Complete with filter and lube) roughly 65 bucks in 2005 (Do not know today the dealer closed and is now re-opened as something else, still a car dealer just not Chevy) Same price in fact as my Chevy car at that time.

So the answer is "Corporate Greed".

I now go to a independent RV service, about 75 bucks as I recall. Been a bit though since the engine went BOOM (yes BOOM) and I'm a few months from replacement.
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Old 11-14-2016, 08:32 AM   #19
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My DP oil was over $100 just for oil that was on sale. The filter cost I do not remember because I bought them last year. Not cheap though.

The fumoto valve I installed last year made the removal easy but a bit slow. However no mess at all.

The filter holds one gallon of oil so I followed someones suggestion and punched a hole in the bottom. That was a bit messy and I'm not sure I will do that again.

Greasing is easy enough but my bones are hurting a lot today.

By doing my own the chassis gets a very close up inspection. I found a pressure washer handle that does not have the long wand. Using that to clean as I go and grease all of that built up grime from years of lube jobs is now gone.

You have to be extremely careful with an rv that has air bags. I use heavy duty jack stands where needed.

Oil changes in the past cost me around $400 as I recall. They fussed a bit because there is a rock guard that has to be removed but that takes but seconds with a power drill.

When I had the Workhorse chassis I was able to go to the Jiffy lube. It was nice because they could change the generator oil too.
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Old 11-14-2016, 10:54 AM   #20
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2qt quality oil filter and synthetic oil less than half of the $120. There are lots of parts stores where you can dump the used oil for free. Grease guns are inexpensive as well as a good quality grease.

It's also easier to access than most cars and light trucks.
IMO double check the 2qt filter. The number I saw for an 8.1L Wix does not have the drain back valve that the 1qt and 1/2qt stocker do.
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Old 11-14-2016, 11:25 AM   #21
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Everyone has their own reasons for what they do. Convenience of taking the rig and letting someone else do the job is nice but, i don't trust that the job will always be done right. Therefore, i do all the lubrication services on our P32 chassis. I buy everything at the local wallyworld store.

Except for our Jeeps, i've found that changing oil and greasing everything is easier than our other vehicles. There is enough clearance, without using the jacks, to easily get under the rig. I can reach the drain plug and filter pretty much from one spot. May sound strange but i find it feels pretty good stretched out underneath while waiting for the oil to drain, so it only takes me one trip under to do everything.

I used to buy the higher capacity filters but then i got to wondering, why? I changed the oil at low mileage intervals so it didn't make any sense to me. Since the filter mounts vertically, i'm not positive an internal check valve inside it makes any difference but just to be safe, that is something i like having in the filter. Also, since i do change the oil regularly, it certainly doesn't make sense for me to pay double or triple the cost for synthetic oil.
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Old 11-14-2016, 12:27 PM   #22
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Thank you for the thought it's been so long since I read on the forums here that the NAPA filter fit the requirement I'll have to go back and recheck it.

I use the longer filter because I like it hanging out there providing just that little better oil cooling ability.

Quote:
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IMO double check the 2qt filter. The number I saw for an 8.1L Wix does not have the drain back valve that the 1qt and 1/2qt stocker do.
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Old 11-16-2016, 10:55 AM   #23
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Thank you for the thought it's been so long since I read on the forums here that the NAPA filter fit the requirement I'll have to go back and recheck it.

I use the longer filter because I like it hanging out there providing just that little better oil cooling ability.
The drain back valve only comes into play when used on vehicles where the filter is mounted in a position other than verticle, such as many engine designs that mount sideways. In these designs the drain back valve is critical due to the oil draining away from the filter which causes a couple second zero pressure start up every time. The 8.1 filter's vertical mounting position does not suffer this problem and therefore does not require the DB valve. The only reason the factory spec filter for the 8.1 has the valve is because it fits more than one vehichle, of which some require it.
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Old 11-16-2016, 03:01 PM   #24
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Thank you that information as I get older I find I need more refresher courses in the basics.
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Old 11-16-2016, 03:13 PM   #25
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When I had a gasser, I installed an oil plug valve
(https://www.fumotooildrainvalve.com/). Using a tube and a gallon jug, I drained the old oil right into a jug, turning the flow off when it got full and catching the balance in another jug. I did it once in an RV park. Now that I have a diesel w/ 27quarts, I pay to have it changed.

I didn't worry about the valve after a friend told me he used one in his air plane.
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Old 11-16-2016, 04:23 PM   #26
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Some of these rigs, especially diesel, have oil capacities of 10 to 12 quarts or more. Be sure you have a catch pan that can handle the oil capacity of your rig. I would hate to hear of an oil slick due to too little a pan.
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Old 11-16-2016, 07:42 PM   #27
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Some of these rigs, especially diesel, have oil capacities of 10 to 12 quarts or more. Be sure you have a catch pan that can handle the oil capacity of your rig. I would hate to hear of an oil slick due to too little a pan.
Mine holds around 27 quarts.
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Old 11-28-2016, 11:53 AM   #28
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I've always done my own oil changes, even on the last two DP's as they're just as easy to do as a gas unit. Not sure that I'll continue with the present unit, not that it's any harder but what do I do with 14 gallons of oil?
14 gallons? Holly crap!
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