Community Forums

Lukeaa · 01-25-2007, 07:35 PM

This may not be the right forum for this, but since the jacks are attached to the chassis, here goes:

I have a 2005 Holiday Rambler Admiral SE on a W22 chassis. When the Power Gear jacks are down, the box wiggles when someone walks around. My old MH did not have this problem. Why don't the jacks stabilize the box so that it is solid when the jacks are down?

Lukeaa · 01-25-2007, 07:35 PM

This may not be the right forum for this, but since the jacks are attached to the chassis, here goes:

I have a 2005 Holiday Rambler Admiral SE on a W22 chassis. When the Power Gear jacks are down, the box wiggles when someone walks around. My old MH did not have this problem. Why don't the jacks stabilize the box so that it is solid when the jacks are down?

Bob (WA0MQE) · 01-26-2007, 01:37 AM

I've heard this quite often with Workhorse Chassis'. We have the same problem with our's. I think it's two reasons, one because on most W-22 thru W-24 chassis' the jacks aren't large enough. Two, because in order to get the coach level, especially if the ground is a slightly uneven, the jacks end up being extended all the way. You didn't mention how many slides you have, but the more you have the heavier the coach and the more it's going to move.

Dsouthw524 · 01-26-2007, 02:41 AM

Part of the problem is te amount of weight placed on the jacks. If you can, raise the coach a bit more to put more weight on the jacks. When you do this it reduces the amount of possible spring travel.

Oemtech · 01-26-2007, 03:17 AM

For the same reason you can sometimes feel someone walking in a house with a basement or built on pier & beam. Vibration/Resonance... Anytime you have something that will "give" and it is big enough you will feel the movement all the to the opposite end. Example - hit a 1' piece steel rod with a hammer. You will some vibration/resonance however slight. Now make same piece of steel 40' and see what happens when you smack it with a hammer.

YosemiteBobR · 01-26-2007, 03:21 AM

Just for safety sacks, get under there and make sure all the bolts are tight on the mounting brackets and/or rivets. That would include frame and jack.

JCM · 01-26-2007, 04:46 AM

I found that if I level the unit with minimal jack extension it is more stable. I use to crank them all the way up and it was more prone to wiggle.
I also found that I have to re level a few times for the first day as the jacks sink into the gravel etc. Then I am good for weeks.

DriVer · 01-26-2007, 05:23 AM

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by JCM:
I found that if I level the unit with minimal jack extension it is more stable. I use to crank them all the way up and it was more prone to wiggle. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>The higher you position your motorhome on the jacks the move movement arm you introduce between the foot pad and the top of the jack.

Reducing your jack extension and attempting to leave some weight on the tires provides a better stability footprint.

Do not hesitate to use a pad ~12"x12"~ pad under your jack feet because this will help stabilize the contact with the ground. I use 1/2" thick plastic pads with handles. Problem is that I don't see this product on RV retailer's shelves any more.

A DIY epoxy paint coated, plywood pad would work just as well using nylon ropes for a handle. I also have these types of pads and I used sandwiched 3/4" AC plywood.

YosemiteBobR · 01-26-2007, 06:43 AM

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by DriVer:
<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by JCM:
I found that if I level the unit with minimal jack extension it is more stable. I use to crank them all the way up and it was more prone to wiggle. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

Do not hesitate to use a pad ~12"x12"~ pad under your jack feet because this will help stabilize the contact with the ground. I use 1/2" thick plastic pads with handles. Problem is that I don't see this product on RV retailer's shelves any more.

A DIY epoxy paint coated, plywood pad would work just as well using nylon ropes for a handle. I also have these types of pads and I used sandwiched 3/4" AC plywood. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

Another simple solution is to make your 3/4" plywood pads (mine 16" square) and put a hole in them so as to use your awning retriever pull to just hook the plywood and pull it out. I used to use rope but it would get really messy with stickers and just plane wet, and was harder to stack.

adj · 01-26-2007, 10:26 AM

I'm in my 3rd coach with jacks and have always had some wiggle. Sometimes, it is more pronounced and I will bump the jacks or start over to reduce the sensation.

Many times I have pondered this situation and it is good to see it as a subject here. Right off the bat, it appears there is a difference of opinion. I believe you can reduce, but not eliminate, wiggle.

This past summer I noticed a few rigs with bracing between the jack pairs. My immediate impression was that it made sense until I thought about uneven ground and the possible extra side forces this set-up might cause.

MaxRT · 01-26-2007, 12:48 PM

Having recently ordered a larger size of these pads for the larger motorhome I thought I would offer my review of having used these for some time in the 12" size for both the Essex and the Vectra.

Here is a representative picture of the 12,15 and 18" size.

HERE is their website....While a bit on the pricey side,they carry a LIFETIME WARRANTY against breakage...
With the rope handle they're very easy to put in place and pick up and when you purchase a set of four they include a nice storage bag.

Copied this from product evaluation. Re: RV Jack Pads from DICA. The post shows pics and has a link to the web site.

travel · 01-26-2007, 01:02 PM

I have found that first I try Automatic. If that does nor work ,I then level manual. Drop the front levelers until they contact the ground. Then lower the rear ones until level OR almost level. try to keep the side with the largest or most rooms a little high as the rooms out will level the chassis. front to rear does not have t be perfect but just in the "bubble.Also, have some lumber in the out sid compartment for good measure.

Lukeaa · 01-26-2007, 07:14 PM

Guys,

Thanks for the replies. However, I am not sure that you have identified the problem. I have Power Gear jacks and they have a large round foot plate. I just don't see how putting a large wooden plate under the jack will make it have better ground contact than the 24,000 lbs that is pressing the jacks plates into the ground now. If the box is bolted to the chassis and the chassis has four jacks down firmly pressing the ground, I don't see how I could have the wiggle when someone walks around. It feels like there is some kind of suspension between the box and the chassis that allows the box to move independent of the chassis and jacks.

Does anyone from Power Gear or one of the other jack companies ever visit any of the forums? In the mean time I will give Monaco tech support a call and see what they have to say.

Currently just across the river from Quartzsite,

M&EM · 01-26-2007, 07:21 PM

I have the same Power Gear system and the same symptoms. Perhaps there is some small amount of air trapped in the lines that allows some compression to occur. There may be several high spots in the lines as they progress toward the rear of the chassis where air might become trapped. Particularly where the lines pass by the front suspension components. I have had this issue since the coach was new. Also have the situation where the one front jack drops down about an inch during a days travel, particularly on a hot day.

Marty