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Old 01-13-2017, 07:36 PM   #29
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Heat sleeves...
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Old 01-13-2017, 07:40 PM   #30
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Heat sleeves...
Thank Ya
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Old 01-22-2017, 07:49 PM   #31
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What's the difference between the Magnum wires $150, and the Extreme Magnum wires $275? Are the Extremes worth the extra $$$? Thanks
I'm about to pull the trigger so I would like to know also. That's expensive but I'm tire of this crap, so what can you do? Has anyone had to use the lifetime warranty?
How do you get to them, can you do it from the doghouse? Thanks all.
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Old 01-22-2017, 07:52 PM   #32
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Heat sleeves...
Oemy, please give info on heat sleeves, thanks.
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Old 01-22-2017, 08:19 PM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pete & Linda View Post
Oemy, please give info on heat sleeves, thanks.
The problem is not the wires per si... it the bad design by the coach builder. Depending on how the grill area is designed the air flow may not be correct to move enough air thru engine compartment. This results in the back 2 plug wires breaking down. Workhorse at one point provided a kit to route air directly from the grill area to the back two plugs on the drivers/passengers side. Another solution was to add a heat sock to the plug wire.

With Magnum wires you really don't need the heat socks. The wires are constructed with Stainless Steel wire cores. Magnum wires also use a different plug boot (Mercury Marine style) that eliminates the sharp angle where the plug wire enters the boot. This where the bulk of the OEM & aftermarket wires failed as the used the stock style plug boot.

I put on a set of prototype Magnums for 8 years or so ago and they were still working with no runs, no hits & no errors when I sold my coach in 2016.

Lifetime warranty.... I never had a set returned and sold a bunch of them.

OBTW - I put a set on my Corvette along with new set of GM heat shields. The heat shields are required. Check the shields to make sure they are not toast.
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Old 01-22-2017, 08:58 PM   #34
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Depending on the wires they used, that could be the source. Get the Magnum wires from Ultra RV and that will be the end of it. Also, I would install plugs with the 0.045" gap as they are less prone to missing at high RPM. Last recommendation, if you were driving through rain when this occurred the filter and MAF may be wet. Replace the filter, clean the MAF and seal the hood and filter box.
Not sure what you're calling high RPM, its while running down the interstate but when it is under a load (pulling up a hill). The first time I guess it was the wires but I had them change the air filter also. This time when I was adding oil after an oil change I spilled some oil on the inside lip of the air intake tube so I sprayed some gunk (degreaser) and hit the inside of the tube lip with the house and washed it off. I held the drain tube open. My bad I guess. I hate to show my ignorance but I'm not a mechanic. The MAF I assume is the mass air filter but where is it and do you replace it or can It be cleaned, I would rather change it. This is a Workhorse so don't know about sealing the hood, I guess I could block the input but I though it was a cold air intake. I don't have a problem with whatever needs to be done just want the damn thing fixed. Don't get me wrong I don't want to spend the money for the hell of it. Oemy was talking about "heat shield" any info on that? Thanks to everyone for your help.
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Old 01-22-2017, 09:01 PM   #35
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If the miss is occurring at higher RPM's (when a lot of air is required) and you have recently been in wet weather, I would second the opinion regarding the air box and filter. I have experienced this issue, but at 25K miles have yet to have any issue related to plug wires.
I will try the air filter first. Thanks
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Old 01-22-2017, 09:16 PM   #36
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Heat shields...
Note - If you look at the inside they should have an almost orange color. If they are dark or brown in color they are toast.. Replace them .. Rock Auto $3



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Old 01-22-2017, 09:19 PM   #37
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I would replace the wires with stock parts and add firesleeve over the wires and plug boots. Also the guy who recommended the cool air ducts is right on the money.
"firesleeve" ?? Info please.
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Old 01-22-2017, 09:42 PM   #38
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The vent kit has met with a mix of success stories however there have been engine/body setups such as in one particular year of Trek MH that did not benefit from the installation accomplished under warranty.

Step 1 on improving cooling on Workhorse motorhomes is to get as much air through the cool pack as possible. Owners need to assure that the rubber fabric is installed between the top of the radiator and firewall to the extent possible (except the OE cutouts) and is the updated thicker fabric.

Fan shrouds are important especially the dams that seal the shroud between the radiator and the shroud are missing. If the vertical rubber dams are absent, I have seen where elevated temperatures will present in the cooling system as the heat that is required to lock in the clutch on the fan will not be sufficient.

I have been a long time "fan" that if you keep the inside of the engine cool that the outside (burned out plug wires) will be greatly reduced in frequency or no longer be a problem.

I recently replaced almost all of the cooling system components and I run from 204 to 212 degrees. On average I'm looking at 207 on my Scan Gauge II. I really like the "0" part of the number.
Thanks Mike, been at Huntington Beach since the 27th, headed back to Columbia 26th. How do I tell if I have the thicker fabric? Going to stop by Larry's tomorrow to see if he has an air filter.
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Old 01-22-2017, 09:49 PM   #39
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Thanks Mike, been at Huntington Beach since the 27th, headed back to Columbia 26th. How do I tell if I have the thicker fabric? Going to stop by Larry's tomorrow to see if he has an air filter.
Just work with Larry and Justin will advise you about the fabric that you need if its deficient or missing. Just tell them that Mike sent you.
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Old 01-22-2017, 09:53 PM   #40
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"firesleeve" ?? Info please.
I have not heard recently or lately that there are devices called fire-sleeves. Most of us call them socks. As shown in Oemy's photo, all you need is a set Magnum Wires, the 150.00 ones, and new metal heat shields. Guarantee this will be your last set of wires.
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Old 01-22-2017, 10:16 PM   #41
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Originally Posted by Oemtech View Post
The problem is not the wires per si... it the bad design by the coach builder. Depending on how the grill area is designed the air flow may not be correct to move enough air thru engine compartment. This results in the back 2 plug wires breaking down. Workhorse at one point provided a kit to route air directly from the grill area to the back two plugs on the drivers/passengers side. Another solution was to add a heat sock to the plug wire.

With Magnum wires you really don't need the heat socks. The wires are constructed with Stainless Steel wire cores. Magnum wires also use a different plug boot (Mercury Marine style) that eliminates the sharp angle where the plug wire enters the boot. This where the bulk of the OEM & aftermarket wires failed as the used the stock style plug boot.

I put on a set of prototype Magnums for 8 years or so ago and they were still working with no runs, no hits & no errors when I sold my coach in 2016.

Lifetime warranty.... I never had a set returned and sold a bunch of them.

OBTW - I put a set on my Corvette along with new set of GM heat shields. The heat shields are required. Check the shields to make sure they are not toast.
What are the heat shields made of that they can be toast? Easy to install from the doghouse
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Old 01-22-2017, 10:23 PM   #42
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The insulating material on the inside of the sheild fails from to much heat. Best done from under the coach via the wheel well.

From your questions... Have it done!
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