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Old 01-06-2017, 12:50 AM   #1
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WorkHorse 2004 8.1 skipping

Skipping and bucking under load again. We were out west with about 15,000 miles on it and took it in for service (got hosed) and they replaced the plug wires and plugs, did I really need the plugs? I thought it was just the plug wires. I now have 33,000 miles on it and it's back!! Before I talk to the shop I would like to know more about the problem and what should be replaced. Thanking you in advance.
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Old 01-06-2017, 07:31 AM   #2
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Depending on the wires they used, that could be the source. Get the Magnum wires from Ultra RV and that will be the end of it. Also, I would install plugs with the 0.045" gap as they are less prone to missing at high RPM. Last recommendation, if you were driving through rain when this occurred the filter and MAF may be wet. Replace the filter, clean the MAF and seal the hood and filter box.
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Old 01-06-2017, 08:32 AM   #3
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If the miss is occurring at higher RPM's (when a lot of air is required) and you have recently been in wet weather, I would second the opinion regarding the air box and filter. I have experienced this issue, but at 25K miles have yet to have any issue related to plug wires.
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Old 01-06-2017, 10:03 PM   #4
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"Pete and Linda"......The plug wires going bad is a really common problem with your engine. A lot of it's caused by the lack of airflow to the engine (exhaust manifolds). If the replaced your standard plug wires with the same thing, you most likely have burned wires again.

Do some research and buy the best high heat wires you can get. You can also help the situation with a cheap fix. Buy some flexible dryer ducting and route some cool air tp the manifolds. Attach the ducting behind the grill on both sides of the engine and route it back so that it blows on the engine. It's a pretty easy DIY project.
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Old 01-08-2017, 09:03 PM   #5
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[QUOTE=Dutch Star Don;3405519]"Pete and Linda"......The plug wires going bad is a really common problem with your engine. A lot of it's caused by the lack of airflow to the engine (exhaust manifolds). If the replaced your standard plug wires with the same thing, you most likely have burned wires again.

Do some research and buy the best high heat wires you can get. You can also help the situation with a cheap fix. Buy some flexible dryer ducting and route some cool air tp the manifolds. Attach the ducting behind the grill on both sides of the engine and route it back so that it blows on the engine. It's a pretty easy DIY project.[/Q

Thanks, I'll try the cool air ducts, anybody know where the best heat resistant plug wires can be had?
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Old 01-08-2017, 09:09 PM   #6
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[QUOTE=Pete & Linda;3408922]
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dutch Star Don View Post
"Pete and Linda"......The plug wires going bad is a really common problem with your engine. A lot of it's caused by the lack of airflow to the engine (exhaust manifolds). If the replaced your standard plug wires with the same thing, you most likely have burned wires again.

Do some research and buy the best high heat wires you can get. You can also help the situation with a cheap fix. Buy some flexible dryer ducting and route some cool air tp the manifolds. Attach the ducting behind the grill on both sides of the engine and route it back so that it blows on the engine. It's a pretty easy DIY project.[/Q

Thanks, I'll try the cool air ducts, anybody know where the best heat resistant plug wires can be had?
Ultra RV has a selection of them, I am running the Taylor Wires

https://www.ultrarvproducts.com/inde...ark+plug+wires

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1


The Ultra RV set has a "REAL" full time warranty, unlike the Taylors, I would of got the Ultra RV wires, but did not know about them.
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Old 01-10-2017, 10:35 AM   #7
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My OEM wires lasted for 35,000 miles. Switched to High Heat Taylors. They lasted less than 5,000 miles. Taylor made it right and gave me credit for a new set. I now have the ceramic boot high heat taylors. Will see how long they last.

Also installed some air ducting to cool engine. Next step is to install some sheet metal to better control or direct the cooling air over the manifolds.

The best ducting I could find was some Disc Brake Cooling Duct. It is a rubberized type ducting. Also installed some air scoops behind the grill which the ducting connects to.
I can't recall where I got the parts but a simple search will reveal many sources.

Good luck
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Old 01-10-2017, 10:45 AM   #8
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I have experienced the same issue with my engine and found that the end that clips to the top of the sparkplug was loose and would vibrate off and I had to push it back on. Would up buying good wires and it went away.
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Old 01-10-2017, 10:49 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by barnegatepic View Post
I have experienced the same issue with my engine and found that the end that clips to the top of the sparkplug was loose and would vibrate off and I had to push it back on. Would up buying good wires and it went away.
Wat wires do you have?
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Old 01-10-2017, 10:50 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fyrflie View Post
My OEM wires lasted for 35,000 miles. Switched to High Heat Taylors. They lasted less than 5,000 miles. Taylor made it right and gave me credit for a new set. I now have the ceramic boot high heat taylors. Will see how long they last.

Also installed some air ducting to cool engine. Next step is to install some sheet metal to better control or direct the cooling air over the manifolds.

The best ducting I could find was some Disc Brake Cooling Duct. It is a rubberized type ducting. Also installed some air scoops behind the grill which the ducting connects to.
I can't recall where I got the parts but a simple search will reveal many sources.

Good luck
Damn I was going to go with the Taylor's but damn now I don't know what to do.
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Old 01-10-2017, 12:25 PM   #11
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I would replace the wires with stock parts and add firesleeve over the wires and plug boots. Also the guy who recommended the cool air ducts is right on the money.
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Old 01-10-2017, 12:31 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pete & Linda View Post
Damn I was going to go with the Taylor's but damn now I don't know what to do.
The Ultea RV plug wires are pricey, but they are TRUE lifetime warranty
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Old 01-10-2017, 02:18 PM   #13
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Quote:
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Damn I was going to go with the Taylor's but damn now I don't know what to do.
Take a look at the Ultra RV Magnum wires. They could just be the "Last" wires that you will ever buy.
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Old 01-10-2017, 02:35 PM   #14
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Also the guy who recommended the cool air ducts is right on the money.
The vent kit has met with a mix of success stories however there have been engine/body setups such as in one particular year of Trek MH that did not benefit from the installation accomplished under warranty.

Step 1 on improving cooling on Workhorse motorhomes is to get as much air through the cool pack as possible. Owners need to assure that the rubber fabric is installed between the top of the radiator and firewall to the extent possible (except the OE cutouts) and is the updated thicker fabric.

Fan shrouds are important especially the dams that seal the shroud between the radiator and the shroud are missing. If the vertical rubber dams are absent, I have seen where elevated temperatures will present in the cooling system as the heat that is required to lock in the clutch on the fan will not be sufficient.

I have been a long time "fan" that if you keep the inside of the engine cool that the outside (burned out plug wires) will be greatly reduced in frequency or no longer be a problem.

I recently replaced almost all of the cooling system components and I run from 204 to 212 degrees. On average I'm looking at 207 on my Scan Gauge II. I really like the "0" part of the number.
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