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Old 08-22-2007, 06:26 PM   #1
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This schedule applies equally to all Workhorse powered motorhomes to the present time.

Workhorse Gas Chassis RV Maintenance Schedule Program.

You will need the Acrobat Reader to open the file. If you need the Acroread just click on the logo below for version 8.1.

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Old 08-22-2007, 07:58 PM   #2
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I have to climb under the MH and check the autopark, air pressue in airbags and tires every time I get gas? Check/ change axle fluid every 3000 miles? Is that the differential or is this just for the W series?
Interesting that they don't recomend changing my transmission fluid for 100,000 miles.
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Old 08-22-2007, 08:59 PM   #3
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DriVer, how close have you yourself followed this schedule? Do you rotate tires every 6k miles
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Old 08-23-2007, 04:49 AM   #4
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I don't understand why such frequent oil changes for the differential? Isn't it factory filled with synthetic oil? I assume towing a toad is the same as towing a trailer?
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Old 08-23-2007, 10:08 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally posted by Don and Kim:
I don't understand why such frequent oil changes for the differential? Isn't it factory filled with synthetic oil? I assume towing a toad is the same as towing a trailer?
Thank you for the question and I will be glad to answer that for you.

The proceedure calls for:
(10) Check/Change Axle Fluid *

<LI> Standard Differential: Check Fluid every oil change and add as needed. If driving in dusty conditions or towing a trailer drain and refill every 15k miles.
<LI> Dana 70/80/S135: Check fluid every oil change and add as needed. If driving in dusty, sandy, wet conditions or towing a trailer, change lubricant every 25k miles or 6 months (whichever occurs first).

The operative word is "check". There would be no need to replace your differenetial fluid if the astereisk (*) conditions are not met. If the * conditions exist the recommended proceedure may require a fluid chage. Subsequesnt to the change you can then go back to the check process.

Now how can you tell your differentail fluid is contaminated; Blackstone Labs. I don't believe that a lay person can by observation see that a fluid needs to be changed. If the environmental conditions are met, then it's up to you to determine that and make the appropriate decision.

Workhorse differentails are filled with synthetic fluid as you have stated.
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Old 08-23-2007, 11:51 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally posted by al koffman:
DriVer, how close have you yourself followed this schedule? Do you rotate tires every 6k miles
You know, that's a great question. I don't believe in my ownership experience with 2 motorhomes that I have rotated my tires other than to square up the front tires with the outside rears prior to a front end alignment.

There are varying opinions on tire rotation and the Michelin rep I spoke with wasn't totally on-board with a rotation schedule for RV tires although he didn't object to it outright.
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Old 08-23-2007, 02:11 PM   #7
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NORMALLY (note the emphasis on this word), It is not necessary to rotate the tires on Medium/Heavy Duty chassis, because of the slow rotational speed of the larger diameter tires, UNLESS (note the emphasis on this word) there is a problem with unusual wear on one or more tires. Even then you must determine what is causing the wear problem and fix it before rotating the tires to even out the wear pattern.

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Old 08-24-2007, 09:31 AM   #8
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Quote:
# Standard Differential: Check Fluid every oil change and add as needed. If driving in dusty conditions or towing a trailer drain and refill every 15k miles.
# Dana 70/80/S135: Check fluid every oil change and add as needed. If driving in dusty, sandy, wet conditions or towing a trailer, change lubricant every 25k miles or 6 months (whichever occurs first).
Just want to make sure I understand this. If I'm towing a toad with my W series coach(which I believe uses the Dana axle) I need to change the fluid every 6 months? Seems like an unreasonable interval.
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Old 08-24-2007, 10:31 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally posted by Don and Kim:
Just want to make sure I understand this. If I'm towing a toad with my W series coach(which I believe uses the Dana axle) I need to change the fluid every 6 months? Seems like an unreasonable interval.
Don, I believe that I was very clear in my presentation of the maintenance requirement however I'll state it a different way.

You need only to "check" your differential fluid at the prescribed interval. IF and a very BIG IF you consistently travel on dirt roads (non-paved) and or are towing a car you may need to be more diligent about assuring that your differential fluid does not get contaminated by the by products of the road surface.

If you constantly travel in this type of condition I would get a fluid sample and have it tested before I changed the fluid just so you could justify the change. Now I said that I would, your needs may vary. The maintenance requirement is pretty clear and I think that just about covers it.

Some of our country owners live on unpaved roads and need to run 15 or more miles to get home via a dirt road. That condition would require that the owner be more vigilant about checking for contamination.

The only time I run on unpaved roads would be in a campground and those types of CG roads are few and far between and then I'm going very slow as to not kick up a lot of dust.
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Old 08-24-2007, 10:38 AM   #10
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Or...they use their MH to back the boat into the water and cause the axle to become submerged.
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Old 08-24-2007, 10:52 AM   #11
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Since we're on the rear differential subject, how exactly do you check the fluid level?
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Old 08-24-2007, 11:07 AM   #12
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Remove the inspection plug, on the rear center section, as viewed from the rear of coach, fluid should be even with bottom of threads, or just trickle out.
Drain plug is at the bottom facing the ground.

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Old 08-24-2007, 02:30 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally posted by abarkl:
Or...they use their MH to back the boat into the water and cause the axle to become submerged.
abarkl, Thanks for posting this tip, it's a very important consideration.

You can immediately tell if there's water in the differential fluid because it'll present as a milky dark brown color and perhaps with small bubbles. The differential is also observed to be over filled and when the fluid drains out you will be able to clearly see the contamination.

Extended periods of contamination will damage and ruin the gear set.

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Old 10-15-2007, 12:32 PM   #14
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Think there will ever have mileage interval boxes for MAF?

"Check/Inspect/Clean MAF Sensor as Necessary"
Interval: Every Air Filter Change
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