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Dodgey · 03-23-2014, 02:54 AM

We have a 2008 Damon Daybreak, W18 chassis, build date for the chassis 2007. So, we haven't put many miles on yet but I do suspect this issue was there from the start. Hitting an incline back end of last year the alarm went of on the dash and displayed check battery voltage, cruise set at 55 ish she kicked down two gears, rpms hit 4k. Alarmed breifly stopping when the trans shifted up, rpms down. Pressing buttons on tge dash I found the voltage display and, cruising at approx 2k rpm 15.7 volts, rising to 16 ish at 3k and over and alarm at 4k rpm.

We have now been to out RV tech, only one Workhorse agent here and not practical to get to, and rumour has it they are stumped by the same issue too. Our man went through the battery and charge circuits, all fine and had the alternator checked, and again fine. Various things and no change.

Poking about we discovered an issue with the tranny dipstick tube, namely it was jammed between the rear most passenger side coil pack and the Damon chassis. This had near trashed the plug wire boot and disloged the wire, still firing, no misfires in the tech 2 read, but obviously a weak spark, I'd had a couple of induction backfires running on lpg, propane. Moving the pipe and replacing the wire had a couple of interesting results. Firstly, engines running noticeably smoother and more powerful, which is good, and then there is the voltage.

Tickover and cruise, 15.6, 3k and above, occationally I'll see 15.9 dropping the 15.8 but usually the peak is 15.8, often dropping to 15.7 or even 15.6 after a few seconds, even at hill climbing rpms. This still seems very high, batteries are good, everything is working fine.

The pink wire. I've found a bit out about the pink wire to the alternator which is a link from the pcm which apparently tells the alternator to give max output over riding the monitoring of the battery connection on the alternator. Some suggestion on tinternet point to issues here. A chance meeting with a fellow RVer, who happens to know someone with connection to Workhorse in the US called the other day with this little nugget apparently from Workhorse. They said this is not uncommon with certain RV and truck convertors and the fix is, cut the pink wire!

Now, I'm not averse to trying this as if nothing else it confirm the problem, but any thoughts? Another general question for all Workhorse owners, what does your dash read for voltage?

M&EM · 03-23-2014, 04:50 PM

Mine runs around 14.7V.

terry735001 · 03-23-2014, 05:23 PM

this is not some thing new every thing is good 16v is not high if you have alot of batterys in the RV and one could be lower and trying to bring it up ....... all so if you are running a inverter for 110ac power well all so pull it high like that ...... wiring for 8.1l/... red hot at all times ... pink hot when key on only.... you are going to find that around 5 pink wires go to the top of the montor but splice off to 20 .... cut one in the wrong place and you have lost power to more then what you want ------- conn ID co17 part number 12186568 gen plug is a 4 pin but only 3 wires in------ pin B wire= E225 gos to ECM pulg J2 pin 15 E225------- pin C wire= E23 gos to ECM plug J2 pin 75 E23------- pin D wire= E739 .... i have the full wiring dy for this if you need it.. wish it would should how i type is and you and you could see the info better

Dodgey · 03-24-2014, 06:53 AM

Thanks for the replys.

Only load going down the road hab side is the fridge. There is an invertor but that's isolated, battery kill switch needs inserting to use. All batteries look good, so shouldn't be the/an issue. The pink wire, well I googled that and realised it's generally ignition hot and there are numerous, some around the ignition switch can be an issue, though apparently on earlier chassis, though it's on the list to have a good look around under the dash, column shroud etc. Wiring diagram would be good thanks, do you need an email addy or will it come through on a pm?

Fl_Richard · 03-25-2014, 03:35 PM

What is the actual read value with a multimeter? Dash gauges are generally almost worthless.

Mine reads about 14.8 as best I can tell. Its a little lower when first started until the alternator tops things off then tops out just under 15. For a crappy dash gauge it is pretty close to my Fluke 99s read.

terry735001 · 03-25-2014, 05:16 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dodgey

Thanks for the replys.

Only load going down the road hab side is the fridge. There is an invertor but that's isolated, battery kill switch needs inserting to use. All batteries look good, so shouldn't be the/an issue. The pink wire, well I googled that and realised it's generally ignition hot and there are numerous, some around the ignition switch can be an issue, though apparently on earlier chassis, though it's on the list to have a good look around under the dash, column shroud etc. Wiring diagram would be good thanks, do you need an email addy or will it come through on a pm?

would need a email as its a PDF file.... i well send you 3 of them all have good info ... i even have the 480MB 2003 pw30 over 8000 page PDF but hard to send that to any one if any one should need this one i can send it over yahoo messenger just PM me asking for it as i know this info stays up along time

Dodgey · 03-26-2014, 01:31 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Fl_Richard

What is the actual read value with a multimeter? Dash gauges are generally almost worthless.

Mine reads about 14.8 as best I can tell. Its a little lower when first started until the alternator tops things off then tops out just under 15. For a crappy dash gauge it is pretty close to my Fluke 99s read.

Multimeter agrees with dash, tech 2 recons 0.3 less though, l'm inclined to the multimter a dash reading, two meter by the way plus dash.

Terry, sending pm, and many thanks for your help.

mgscott4 · 03-26-2014, 08:44 AM

All that high tech stuff is good. But I would start with the basics, clean all of the battery terminals, cables and ground connections. Check water levels. check charge status with a hydrometer. Make sure they have a good charge. Then start troubleshooting if the problem re-occurs.

YC1 · 03-26-2014, 09:18 AM

Ditto on cleaning all battery connections. A dremel tool with a sanding disc works great. Keep well ventilated and sparks out of way of batteries of course. The alternator may be sensing low batteries and doing exactly what it is supposed to do. Without doing the old IR voltage drop scenario I will not try to impress you with techno geek stuff. Good old fashioned preventative maintenance cures a lot of weird problems. Follow all of your wires from the batteries. DO NOT assume they are clean and tight. Take them off, clean them, and retighten.

Dodgey · 03-27-2014, 01:47 AM

All battery cable connections already cleaned, tested and refitted, battery checked etc etc.

YC1 · 03-27-2014, 06:27 AM

If they are basically bypassing the voltage regulator and supplying full battery voltage to the field wire it would put out max as you are seeing. Can you disconnect the pink wire versus cutting it? If not I would cut it somewhere it is easy to reconnect.

Dodgey · 03-28-2014, 02:17 AM

I haven't had chance to look yet but the plan is to chase the wire up the loom and find a suitable point to cut, I doubt I'll be able to disconnect as such.